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all i do for mine is glue another strip of wood to the backside of the box to in cress depth then route a hole so i end up with 2'' hole and glue another piece of wood to that hole with 2 holes in it for binding posts a lot more work then just buying those though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
all i do for mine is glue another strip of wood to the backside of the box to in cress depth then route a hole so i end up with 2'' hole and glue another piece of wood to that hole with 2 holes in it for binding posts a lot more work then just buying those though.
That's an idea for sure. I might just do that. Binding posts are more expensive but definitely stronger. I just saw so many people use terminal cups on their volts that I thought i'd give em a try
 

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since I wanted a low profile on my Volt 10's I decided to try terminal cups. Since I've never bought terminal cups before (only binding posts) do these look ok for my Volt 10s?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P5Z74Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those look very similar to the PE ones I used on my Volt10's. To my eyes the only diff is that the PE ones have a gasket on the back. You NEED a gasket on the terminal cup. Link to PE ones:
http://www.parts-express.com/round-speaker-terminal-cup-2-7-8-gold-banana-binding-post--260-283


There is a build thread by me in this forum that shows me using them. And there's nothing chintzy about them. They As WVU80 stated, they are way better than having binding posts sticking out 1"+ behind the box. Of course, binding posts can be recessed...and you wind up with...a terminal cup. :D Your electrical connection doesn't need to be "strong." You aren't hanging the cab by the speaker wire, right? A solid mechanical connection means a solid electrical connection. That AND and an air-tight seal and you're 100% good to go.
 

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Lol. True. Gasket shouldn't be a problem. I have a gazillion yards of gasket tape from parts express lying around as it is. I think I'll give them a try. They're dirt cheap
 

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Those round, chassis-mount Speakons are fantastic and look really spiffy when recessed into the cab. I used them on my OTop 12's and will use them on my two UXL-18 boxes when I build them.


Pics of recessed Speakons.
I didn't recess them on the subs but wish I did....looks better. You can get 90degree connectors to keep it low profile when hooked up, too http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4frx-speakon-spx-right-angle-cable-connector-4p--092-192

Not to mention these cost less and make a more solid connection.
 

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I probably wont' recess them on the two UXL-18 boxes I'll be building. Nobody is going to see them as they'll be behind a screen wall. I'm looking forward to just having to paint the boxes flat black vs. also Duratexing or staining and polying like on "real wood boxes". I'll round-over the corners just to make them easier to move but other than those two things, that's it.
 
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