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Discussion Starter #1
So i recently purchased a Pioneer VSX-520-K to replace the my Onkyo HT-R340, as I wanted something with HDMI switching. The Onkyo was part of a "home theater in a box" that used a non-powered sub. So now I need a powered sub...

I have a JL Audio 12W3 that I used to use in my car lying around, so I thought that maybe I should use that. Heres what I was thinking of using:

Elemental Designs LT.200
Elemental Designs Single 12" DIY Kit


I'm figuring this kit will be around the same price as be buying and cutting the materials myself.

With regards to my plan of using these three items to make a sub woofer, is there anything else I wound need? I'm brand new to this so please set me strait if I'm way off course. Also, I'm wondering if this sub would possibly be overkill, it seems that it would be way more powerful than the small Onkyo sub that came with the kit, but I guess I could always turn it down right?


With regards to the specific materials I have chossen; does anyone have any experience with Elemental Designs ?, or with using a JL car sub woofer for home theater use?
 

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It will work but it isnt designed for HT use. Use the search feature and you will see a post within the past few days that got feed back on using some 10w7s I believe. Remember "search" is your friend.


But yes it will work. Spending very little for a sub that is designed for HT would out perform it.


Just look down nine or ten threads from yours :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic
It will work but it isnt designed for HT use. Use the search feature and you will see a post within the past few days that got feed back on using some 10w7s I believe. Remember "search" is your friend.


But yes it will work. Spending very little for a sub that is designed for HT would out perform it.


Just look down nine or ten threads from yours :)
My main goal is to do this cheap, the items i described above will only cost $215. If this setup will be sufficient i would rather do it than buying another driver.

Is there any solution that will get me a "better" sub for $215 or less?

I know the W3 is not designed for HT use, but I think it will still be an improvement from my old sub, I guess worst case scenario if it doesn't sound good, I can use it in my music room for a 2.1 setup.
 

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Thanks for the info guys, I think I'm going to go with the Elemental Designs Single 12" DIY Kit, and Parts express 300w Bash plate amp, with my JL W3. This way i can get the whole thing done for $165.

I think i should get about as much out out of this set-up as i can for that price.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikeOne33 /forum/post/19513920


Thanks for the info guys, I think I'm going to go with the Elemental Designs Single 12" DIY Kit, and Parts express 300w Bash plate amp, with my JL W3. This way i can get the whole thing done for $165.

I think i should get about as much out out of this set-up as i can for that price.

Have you modeled that Jl w3 sub at 18hz in the volume of that enclosure?


Looks like about 3.1 cubic feet net at 18hz



I don't know why they say they are using an 18hz tuning frequency. A 4" port would need to be 31" long in a 3.1 cube box to get that tune.

The port looks to be about 14" long or less. I modeled that (14"[email protected]"W) in 3 cubes on a 12w3v3 and it looks fine, though it may chuff a bit.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikeOne33 /forum/post/19513920


Thanks for the info guys, I think I'm going to go with the Elemental Designs Single 12" DIY Kit, and Parts express 300w Bash plate amp, with my JL W3. This way i can get the whole thing done for $165.

I think i should get about as much out out of this set-up as i can for that price.

Personally I have owned the bash 300w amp and the dayton 240w amp. The 240w amp sounds more powerful and had a smoother sound, I ended up moving the 300w Bash to my buttkickers, both are on sale at PE for $99.


As for using a 12" sub for HT I'd go with a 15". The 15" has 50% more surface area and the sub game is all about moving air. I used to use 12"s but the first time I built a 15"er (happened to be a Dayton Quatro)..I knew I never go back to using 12s in a HT setting...the 15 just moves so much more air that the 12s just can't compare unless you use multiples.


But If you want to use the 12" you have so be it. But a sheet of MDF will set you back about $25.


The only way to know if your getting the most out of your driver is to model it yourself and make sure the box size and box tuning are OK with your speaker. Just popping it in any box could give you a really bad freq. response. if the box is too small or tuned too low it could give you a really bad peak and then a quick drop in SPL and it may not even make it to the boxes tuning freq. Chance are that ED box will work but the port will need to be tuned (shortened or lengthened) to give your driver a good smooth response as you approach the tuning frequency.


If you don't feel like tackling modeling your own box (which is very easy to figure out...download WinISD it's free) I'm sure some of use would do it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdy2179 /forum/post/19514511


If you don't feel like tackling modeling your own box (which is very easy to figure out...download WinISD it's free) I'm sure some of use would do it for you.

If someone could help me that would be great, I tried the softare and I think the box should work OK, but I'm not too confident with my understanding of all of the variables involved with sub woofers and boxes, let alone this software.

So heres the question, will this sub ( JL Audio W3V2-D2 ) perform well in this box ( Elemental Designs Single 12" DIY Kit )?

I realize that "perform well" is of course relative, so a better question may be will it perform well for a $180 dollar sub, because thats about all that it will cost me when I'm done?
 

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If the box is tuned to the upper 20's like I think it is based on the length of the port, it should do fine (on 12w3 v3, but you have a v2...hopefully it's similar).
 

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Discussion Starter #11

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsoul /forum/post/19516264


If the box is tuned to the upper 20's like I think it is based on the length of the port, it should do fine (on 12w3 v3, but you have a v2...hopefully it's similar).

There are some differences, what should I look for?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikeOne33 /forum/post/19516502


There are some differences, what should I look for?

I just modeled the 12w3 v2 d2, it looks good as long as the port is 4" wide; the middle of the port, not the flare portion(the flare can be wider); and 14" or so long. I hope your sub is a d2 (dual 2ohm voice coils) or it will throw off your plans somewhat.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsoul /forum/post/19516956


I just modeled the 12w3 v2 d2, it looks good as long as the port is 4" wide; the middle of the port, not the flare portion(the flare can be wider); and 14" or so long. I hope your sub is a d2 (dual 2ohm voice coils) or it will throw off your plans somewhat.

Yea, it is a D2, thanks for looking into that for me. I really appreciate it.
 

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The Elemental Kit box has a net internal volume of 2.91 cuft. You'll need to add a horizontal brace on those long side panels...or two. The 4" aero port kit at 14" long displaces some volume as well as the driver. Using cyl volume formula and cone volume formula figure on another .25 loss. Final volume is likely around 2.65 cuft.


I'd like to know on what planet the staff of ED is working as a 4" diameter port in a 2.65cuft enclosure needs to be 36" long to create an 18hz tune.


A 4" port in 2.65cuft 14" long will tune to 28 hz though.....maybe a misprint? or something like an acceptable marketing error.
 
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