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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Three questions on wall treatment...

1) A designer expressed concern that the Dacron or polyester batting for use behind GOM fabric on walls is not flame-retardant. What is the solution or stock answer?

2) When splitting between 1" Insul-Shield on the lower half, and polyester batting on the upper half of walls, has anyone had problems with the horizontal butt seam between the Insul-Shield & batting showing through the fabric? We plan to use 1" vertical fir strips on the 60" fabric joints; but we don't want to use a chair rail and are concerned about the joint showing through.

3) Can't find 16oz (1") polyester or Dacron batting ANYWHERE. Max is 10oz. Is layering 10oz + 6oz the best alternative... and if so, has anyone had problems with "bunching"? And do you just staple one to the wall, followed by stapling the other?
 

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1) The issue of flame retardancy has been discussed here several times. IIRC, most code requires the wall surface, i.e., GoM, to be flame retardant (which it is) but not necessarily what's underneath. I assume you tried to search here? Dennis Erskine has discussed this. Try http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=147883


2) I did not use chair rail and had no issue with the horizontal joint between fiberglass and batting showing. GoM can be stretched very tight and does not need to be in intimate contact with what's underneath.


3) I just used the 10 oz batting although I had access to 16 oz. IMO, it doesn't make much difference unless your particular application requires more "substance" behind the GoM. I'd guess the thicker batting might provide a bit better protection against inadvertant damage to the GoM by a guest, for example. The advantage of 10 oz batting may be that it avoids the joint problem above. Personally, I wouldn't fret over this decision; you can get 10 oz a lot cheaper than the 16 oz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input...

1) 10oz batting is easy to find, which we haven't located a source locally or on the Internet for 16oz, so I guess we'll follow your example. Does it leave a noticeable "gap between the polyester and stretched fabric when touched?

2) Do you just spot stable the polyester batting to the studs?

3) Is there a secret to stretching the fabric -- other than trying to simultaneously pull in all 4 directions?


It's good to hear one doesn't need any chair rail trim to hide the butt seam between the Insul-Shield and polyester batting. I'm assuming a true 1" firring is adequate.
 

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1) This is hard to answer. I think I could have left the batting off altogether and not had much difference. There is some resistance when poking the wall, but it's hard to tell there's something back there. The GoM is very tight. I imagine that the 16 oz batting would give more of a cushion feel. If someone were to fall against my walls, I think the fabric might rip. I suppose that's the risk.


2) yes.


3) I used Wallmate furred out to 1" rather than furring strips and staples, so my experience probably doesn't apply. If you're doing vertical butt joints with the furring strip technique, that sounds a bit difficult to me unless you're experienced with it. That's why I used Wallmate.
 
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