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Discussion Starter #1
I’m currently using a SVS PC-2000 Pro, but I’m not thrilled with its performance. I don’t want to go duals at this time as I’m moving in about a year and currently in an apartment. I’ll likely build another one shortly thereafter.

I want a DIY that comes in flat packs as I don’t have a bunch of tools available right now and only have a small garage to work in.

Room is open and about 3500 cubic feet, next one will likely be 2500-3500.

Debating between 15 or 18”. Will buy a NX6000D from Behringer to run it (to allow for duals at later date).

Current options are: DIYSG Kuda (if it ever comes back in stock), Martycube round over (ships FedEx), and Parts Express.

I don’t want to have to use a freight shipper for a single sub.

For drivers: Dayton UM, SI SQL or HST, Eminence Tour. Probably a few others I’m not thinking of.
 

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What are the port dimensions of the Marty Cube?
 

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Couldn’t find it. It’s vent/front ported about the length of the cube
The illustration shows a PA style driver. I would find out the port dimensions before picking that cabinet. I high excursion driver might chuff. It will also likely have a slightly higher tuning frequency than most non PA DIY designs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The illustration shows a PA style driver. I would find out the port dimensions before picking that cabinet. I high excursion driver might chuff. It will also likely have a slightly higher tuning frequency than most non PA DIY designs.
I’m not sold on any DIY company. Just want to make a 15-18” sub, probably ported.
 

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That’s a large room, if you use sealed subs, you will need at least 2 maybe even 4. Your going to have a lot of dead spots for a room that size, I would start with a ported sub like the Marty subs, you do t have to go crazy with a super pricey drive when using a Marty build.
Or even better is a folded horn, it will fill that large room up very nicely with the ( in your chest) feeling. And then just use a smaller ( near field ) for the very low hz


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I’m not sold on any DIY company. Just want to make a 15-18” sub, probably ported.
I get that. I was just concerned that the port area might limit the driver choices. But without the port dimensions, there's really no way to be sure. I'm sure the guys at GSG can suggest the drivers best suited to their cabinet designs though.
 

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With a Kuda and UM18, you're limited by the ports in two ways. First, the lowest tune you can achieve is going to be ~22hz without a 90* turn... this gives an acceptable F3, but without DSP EQ you have a big 3db hump centered at 30hz that's going to make it sound a little bit one-note and boomy. Secondly, you're only going to be able to feed it ~800w before port noise becomes an issue, about 1/2 of what the driver itself can handle in that enclosure/tune. If you do use 90* bends to lower the tune to ~18hz, you tame the hump a little, make the box a little more efficient, bring the F3 down a little, and gain a little SPL by increasing the power handling before port noise becomes an issue. Going with a slot-ported enclosure (assuming a 2" x 24" cross-section and being able to turn the port up the back of the cabinet), you can pretty much feed the driver the max power it can handle before port noise becomes an issue.
 
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With a Kuda and UM18, you're limited by the ports in two ways. First, the lowest tune you can achieve is going to be ~22hz without a 90* turn... this gives an acceptable F3, but without DSP EQ you have a big 3db hump centered at 30hz that's going to make it sound a little bit one-note and boomy. Secondly, you're only going to be able to feed it ~800w before port noise becomes an issue, about 1/2 of what the driver itself can handle in that enclosure/tune. If you do use 90* bends to lower the tune to ~18hz, you tame the hump a little, make the box a little more efficient, bring the F3 down a little, and gain a little SPL by increasing the power handling before port noise becomes an issue. Going with a slot-ported enclosure (assuming a 2" x 24" cross-section and being able to turn the port up the back of the cabinet), you can pretty much feed the driver the max power it can handle before port noise becomes an issue.
Stephen,

The Kuda is tuned under 20hz, not 22hz. The design has the ports closer to a boundary inside the cabinet which lowers the tuning. This has been talked about here and other sites, and tested here and other sites. The VBSS design is a prime example and built by hundreds of people on AVS.

There's no port noise in the Kuda. It's been tested with the 18" Ultimax, 18" RS, then tested with the Stereo Integrity monster 18" with a SpeakerPower amp. No port noise. Huge roundover flares on the inside and outside ports work much better than slot ports at controlling chuffing.
 

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Similarly, in talking with GSG, they've done testing with the UM's, PA-460's, and the popular 'pro' drivers (B&C, Eminence, LaVoce) with all of their enclosures, so it might be worth a chat with them and see what meets your needs better.

I don't think you can go wrong with DIYSG or GSG - They both are responsible for bringing DIY to the masses and draining my wallet, and I couldn't be happier!
 

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Id do a sub crawl and get the current sub placed somewhere acceptable and then hold off until you are in the new place to figure that space out.
 

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Stephen,

The Kuda is tuned under 20hz, not 22hz. The design has the ports closer to a boundary inside the cabinet which lowers the tuning. This has been talked about here and other sites, and tested here and other sites. The VBSS design is a prime example and built by hundreds of people on AVS.

There's no port noise in the Kuda. It's been tested with the 18" Ultimax, 18" RS, then tested with the Stereo Integrity monster 18" with a SpeakerPower amp. No port noise. Huge roundover flares on the inside and outside ports work much better than slot ports at controlling chuffing.
Erich,

Sorry, I was basing it off of a UM18 and with ports either 3" from the boundary or curved for lower tune... also basing the port noise comments of WinISD models with their roundover numbers. Clearly real-world experience trumps this... are you saying a UM18 at full-power/excursion with the included extended-length 3" ports won't generate audible port noise? If so, awesome!
 

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Sorry, typo, I modeled with 4".
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think making a sub at this time may be overwhelming as my apartment has limited space and area to build. So I bought a 18” PSA for under $1000.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How used ? Nice
It’s a b-stock directly from PSA. It has a 5 year warranty. However my Yamaha receiver doesn’t play nice with it, which is resulting in little to no output so it’s going back. I’m considering getting dual Kuda from DIYSG when they’re ready to ship out. Likely dual 15” as dual 18” would be overkill for an apartment. Or maybe a single 18” for now.

I’m worried I’ll have the same receiver output issues with another sub.
 

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It’s a b-stock directly from PSA. It has a 5 year warranty. However my Yamaha receiver doesn’t play nice with it, which is resulting in little to no output so it’s going back. I’m considering getting dual Kuda from DIYSG when they’re ready to ship out. Likely dual 15” as dual 18” would be overkill for an apartment. Or maybe a single 18” for now.

I’m worried I’ll have the same receiver output issues with another sub.
So some amps Aren’t compatible? Strange.
I had no idea you could just buy flat packs so don’t gotta cut the wood for a sub .
Are amps expensive for passive sub ? Do flats have speaker inputs ? ☕
Are gluing them easy ?
 
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