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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Menard's showed up with a whole semi trailer of goodies on Wednesday!
They were able to get the drywall into the garage with the forklift but nothing else, and of course it was going to start raining in less than an hour. Wife and I managed to cram it all into the garage ASAP. I did not realize how heavy 75 bags of mineral wool would be. Beer helped.







 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Wanted to bounce my electrical and lighting plan off folks, see if I am missing anything.

Outside the theater entrance, I have wired up 2 Insteon switches and 3 Insteon dimmers. Inside the theater is 1 6 button Insteon switch - allowing scenes to be chosen.

Lighting
1. 15amp beaker in panel -> 1 Insteon switch -> back to outlet near panel -> Multiple 24 Volt LED Power Supplies (not sure how many or brand) -> Multiple LED Controllers (I think I need 4?
Not sure on brand) -> 4 - 5 wire low voltage wire runs to the four corners of where the soffit cove lighting will be. Then I can solder these to 4 LED strips.

2. 15amp breaker in panel -> 1 Insteon switch -> 2 outlets - one in each opposite corner of the soffit. These would be for possible black lights in the soffits.

3. 15amp breaker in panel -> 1 Insteon dimmer -> can lights in soffit along back wall

4. 15amp breaker in panel -> 1 Insteon dimmer -> can lights in soffit along both side walls

5. 15amp breaker in panel -> 1 Insteon dimmer -> can lights in soffit along front screen wall

6. 15amp breaker in panel -> 1 6 button Insteon dimmer -> step lights

7. 15amp breaker in panel -> switch hidden in front column -> outlet behind screen for future lights or LED

Power
1. 20amp breaker in panel -> Outlets in back and 1 side - inside the columns

2. 20amp breaker in panel -> Outlets behind screen and other side - inside the columns

3. 2 x 20amp breaker in panel -> Outlets behind each row of seats in riser

4. 3 x 20amp breakers in panel -> Outlets behind Rack

5. Outlet behind Projector run back to reverse outlet behind rack (to plug into rack power strip)

Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything big - or my LED logic is flawed.
 

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14 breakers (7 15 amp & 7 20 amp) seems like way more than you need to power a theater. I think your rack is good but the rest seems over engineered to me. I spent almost $40 a breaker even cut in half that is $300 you could spend elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Ya, I could probably combine a few of the lighting runs to fewer breakers. My thought on the outlets is the sub in the front, and future sub in the back need their own - so I split the room into front + side, and back + side.
 

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All of your lighting can be on one 15 amp circuit. If you're unsure, calculate the total wattage and divide by 120 to see how many amps you need. Don't utilize a circuit more than 80%.

As for LED strips, what features are you looking for? Do you need to control the 4 strips independently?

The Mean Well brand of power supplies is well regarded. They are more expensive than the most of the junk on Amazon. Do the power calculations to see what size you need and balance that with the practicality of putting them in a convenient location to see how many you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
As for LED strips, what features are you looking for? Do you need to control the 4 strips independently?

The Mean Well brand of power supplies is well regarded. They are more expensive than the most of the junk on Amazon. Do the power calculations to see what size you need and balance that with the practicality of putting them in a convenient location to see how many you need.
I do not need to control them independently. I just want a single strip of RGBWW with no drop in brightness over the run (approx 14 x 20). Everything I've read says its best to split it into 4 sections to prevent voltage drops over the run. I'm still unsure if its better to run 4 controllers that can hopefully stay in sync or 1 controller with amplifiers to the 4 corners or ???

Thank you for the power supply recommendation!
 

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This is an awesome build thread, subscribed, A neighbor friend would love to have your wine cellar. Right doing this virus stuff she says she is depleting her stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
14 breakers (7 15 amp & 7 20 amp) seems like way more than you need to power a theater. I think your rack is good but the rest seems over engineered to me. I spent almost $40 a breaker even cut in half that is $300 you could spend elsewhere.
Pkinneb, I just got through your build thread - amazing stuff! It really gave me new ideas on how to approach the soffits / HVAC / lighting design. I have a few specific questions if you don't mind - sent you a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well six full days of stuffing insulation later, I can say I hate insulation. I used a bread knife to cut the mineral wool, worked like a charm.
My ceiling cavities were 12 inches deep by about 10 inches wide, so I bought 24 inch wide material, cut it in half, and then used a little 3M 77 adhesive to glue the two sides together. Worked pretty good, except for all around all the fun pipes, etc.





At least I could go to Costco without changing outfits. :D



Glad its done. Amazing how much it cuts the noise from the kitchen above - especially the dogs nails on the hardwood. Next up I need to build the speaker backer boxes for the walls. I think I'm just going to do a single layer of 3/4 MDF, and then add some 5/8 drywall w. GG to the back only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Couple of quick updates.

I got the 8 speaker backer boxes all built and installed. Since all my framing blocking was slightly different - every box was slightly different height and width. Pipe clamps are your friend. Router tables are fun.











Also got the hat channel up and the first piece of osb on the ceiling!! The Grabber screws suggested by Big are amazing, super easy to attach. Feels good to hit this phase finally!
I had to add an extender arm to my drywall lift in order to get it up to 12 feet. It was a little scary but it works. I may have to but a hardhat just in case. :)





 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Two month check-in. I finally got the first layer up and put some acoustic caulk in the bigger gaps.



While the ceiling is attached to hat channel using Grabber small thread screws, the walls are connected to the studs directly since its a room within a room. I learned the hard way that there are big differences in screws. The generic #8 course thread 1 5/8" kept stripping out and not going in all the way. Found these Grabber #6 1 5/8" at HD and OMG do they go in like butter. Not sure if it is the smaller screw weight or the sharper better screw. Probably both. For those that are going into the studs - buy these.



Also got screen samples from Seymour. This is the Center Stage UF (left) vs the Center Stage XD (right). I was worried I would be able to see the XD weave from my MLP at 10 feet, but I really can't that much. My old eyes are bad anyway.



Now on to layer two and Green Glue. See you in another two months. :)
 

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I know its only been a little over a month, but you have to have drywall by now?? This is another great looking build and like most people here, I am envious of your 12 ft ceilings. I have 10 ft and now I wish we would have dug down another 2 ft for the theater room. Oh well. Next time. Right?

Also...love the wine cellar. Just awesome! Keep up the good work and keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thanks Nicco. I actually just finished the last 3 sheets of drywall this last weekend and spent the rest of the weekend bagging up all the scrap and getting it up to the garage. Glad to be finally done with it! I think after I seal the inner corners up with acoustic sealant I will start to tackle the floor vs. the soffits. For the floor I was thinking of cutting 3 inch strips of 1/2 inch horse mat stall, 12 inches apart wall to wall. Then 3/4 T&G OSB on top, then green glue, then 5/8 OSB the other direction. I'm planning on doing this under the whole floor and then building the riser and stage on top with the thought of keeping as much tactical vibration as possible but insulating from the concrete slab. In doing that however, I'm not sure about putting sand in the stage due to the weight on the floating floor. What are peoples thoughts on this?
 

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Thanks Nicco. I actually just finished the last 3 sheets of drywall this last weekend and spent the rest of the weekend bagging up all the scrap and getting it up to the garage. Glad to be finally done with it! I think after I seal the inner corners up with acoustic sealant I will start to tackle the floor vs. the soffits. For the floor I was thinking of cutting 3 inch strips of 1/2 inch horse mat stall, 12 inches apart wall to wall. Then 3/4 T&G OSB on top, then green glue, then 5/8 OSB the other direction. I'm planning on doing this under the whole floor and then building the riser and stage on top with the thought of keeping as much tactical vibration as possible but insulating from the concrete slab. In doing that however, I'm not sure about putting sand in the stage due to the weight on the floating floor. What are peoples thoughts on this?
I think you will be fine, based on the above plan I would have no concerns.
 
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