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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Stage build update...

The frame was 2x10's on top of sideways 2x3's. Which gives me close to 12 1/2 total height after two layers of 3/4 plywood on the top.



6 mil plastic boxed in each section, then we filled them with the sand.




The front arch was then added with more 2x10s and 2x3's and two layers of 1/4 plywood.






For the top, I just threw the 3/4 plywood on top, used a 2x3 scrap with a pen to trace an overhang on the bottom. Ends up being about 1 3/4 overhang. Then just cut it with a jig and used a 1/2 rounded router bit to round the bottom of layer one and the top of layer 2, creating a nice bullnose for the carpet. Used more green glue between the layers. It is rock solid.






Next I need to add another step around the arch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Building a giant riser.

Here was my rough plan. I wanted to do 5 steps on each side, with a second row sitting 3 steps above ground level:


I also wanted to keep it pretty open to use as a large broadband absorber. Decided to emulate a deck frame top over a front and back 'mini wall'. That way I could build it in sections and screw the sections to each other.

Started with the back wall, which sits about 3 feet above floor level. The mini walls are 2x6, 16 OC. The top deck frame is 2x6, 12 OC. Probably a little overkill.




From there, I could build the steps on each side as a separate module and connect it.





Then repeated on the other side and added the boxes for the step lights. Tops are 2 layers of 3/4 plywood.



For the main platform, I used 2x8 vs 2x6 for the deck top due to the span being 6 1/2 feet.



Then a lot of insulation.



Finished Riser!
 

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All of your lighting can be on one 15 amp circuit. If you're unsure, calculate the total wattage and divide by 120 to see how many amps you need. Don't utilize a circuit more than 80%.

As for LED strips, what features are you looking for? Do you need to control the 4 strips independently?

The Mean Well brand of power supplies is well regarded. They are more expensive than the most of the junk on Amazon. Do the power calculations to see what size you need and balance that with the practicality of putting them in a convenient location to see how many you need.
I have some meanwell supplies and they work fine, but I would double the rating from what they say. Mine tend to make a high pitch whine when you draw too much current. I ended up getting 4 40 amps for my ceiling when I should have been able to get away with 2.


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Looking good!! FWIW we have been really pleased with our DIY Seymour XD screen. I have always thought it looked great and after @Chad B worked his magic it only got better.
Agreed. I think the extra gain is worth it and I can’t see the texture at 12 feet.


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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Wondering what I should use insulation wise inside my speaker columns? They will be 18" wide and about 6-10" deep with a lot of speaker cloth covering, so perhaps OC703 vs Pink Fluffy? The speaker inside is relatively small compared to the volume of the columns, especially the front ones which are over 9 feet tall.
 

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Wondering what I should use insulation wise inside my speaker columns? They will be 18" wide and about 6-10" deep with a lot of speaker cloth covering, so perhaps OC703 vs Pink Fluffy? The speaker inside is relatively small compared to the volume of the columns, especially the front ones which are over 9 feet tall.
I would recommend using polyfill myself, instead of insulation. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
I'm a little behind in posting pictures, but made a lot of progress on the finish woodwork.
I've got 8 columns that will hold the side and surround speakers. Each column is 18" wide and the height varies due to the riser steps as you move into the room. All woodwork will be dark oak, with caps and crown molding that will follow the room around under the soffit. Then crown and casing around the light tray as well. It's a LOT of oak so its going to take a while to get it all done.

Started with the column builds.




Ran most of the boards through the planer first, which helped a lot.


Columns were then ready for finishing.


Rented a U-Haul to bring the wood to a shop for finishing as I don't have any of the spray tools (or skills). The cabinet shop that did our original house build was open to me working as an apprentice with their finisher, which was so cool.



Stain Color:



It was so cool to learn how to finish these to get a true furniture grade finish.


Step 1 - Sanding. Used a 150 grit.


Step 2 - Stain. Was put on generously with a special sponge, then wiped off with a rag that was also full of stain.




Step 3 - Sealant. Sprayed and then after it was dry a light sanding with a sanding sponge. It left a light white haze, and then we wiped down with a clean rag and blasted with a little air.





Step 4 - Using a paintbrush, fixed small defects in the stain. Essentially painting wood grain on.


Step 5 - Two coats of top coat and a few days to dry!



 

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Beautiful finish and thanks for all the detailed pics too!

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Looks awesome.

I would NOT use pink fluffy in the columns. I think that it really smells bad and have no idea if it ever goes away. When it’s in the wall you can’t smell it. I filled my columns with rockwool


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Really awesome of that cabinet shop to devote that amount of resources and time to you and allow you to work alongside them. Truly makes a huge difference using professional equipment, products, and techniques. Hell just having enough space to do all that makes a huge difference in the finish quality.
 
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