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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Excited to finally be getting this project kicked off!
  • Finished Room Dimensions
    • 19'-9" x 16'-11” x 8'-6"
  • 7.1.4 Audio
    • Triad Silver LCR
    • Triad Silver Surrounds
    • Triad Silver In-ceiling for atmos
    • 2 - Full Marty's
    • 2 - VBSS's
  • 135" 16.9 Screen
    • JVC NX5
Going to add soundproofing as much as possible, IB-3 clips for framing, IB-1 the ceiling, DD/GG, double stud wall

Hoping to make good progress on this while I just found out our company plans for us to work from home until next summer.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First drama so far...found a framer who was looking for side work and gave a good price, he framed out what you see so far. Next day he said they are finishing a big job and forced to work 12’s and just kind of abandoned without asking for anything money since he felt bad leaving the job after a day.

Called another guy I know who’s helped us in the past, but he’s questioning the double stud wall’s doors.

Any examples of a double door through a double stud wall? Now my wife is confused and thought I meant double wide door before. Is double stud worth it? I have the space under the beam.
 

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Kevin, is that green lumber sitting in your room? If so that wood has a shelf life so to speak before it’s not usable if you want things to be straight. There are many opinions out there about green vs kiln dried wood framing, personally I really like working with green lumber with MC under 30% because of how straight it is but you really do need to use immediately. Just something to think about since it sounds like you’re in limbo right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kevin, is that green lumber sitting in your room? If so that wood has a shelf life so to speak before it’s not usable if you want things to be straight. There are many opinions out there about green vs kiln dried wood framing, personally I really like working with green lumber with MC under 30% because of how straight it is but you really do need to use immediately. Just something to think about since it sounds like you’re in limbo right now.
Yeah, but the green lumber is only for the bottom plates, if that makes it any better. I have kiln dried “regular” studs for the rest. The second guy coming in would finish all my framing for a pretty good price and we’ve worked with him before, but he’s booked out a month. Have another contractor giving me a quote this weekend.

Will this stuff start warping fast?
 

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Bottom plates anchored to concrete are typically required to be pressure treated with a few exceptions. Even in the instances where code lets you skip the requirement I like to specify it as cheap insurance.

edit to answer your question, if I think about it, if you’re not doing something like a level 5 drywall finish you’re probably just fine. Bottom plates are easy to twist and anchor to the right shape if your framer is sharp.
 

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Its always better to use construction lumber right away becuase the moisture content whether treated or not is off the charts. As it dries it will twist up and if its not stacked square that will only exacerbate the issue.
 

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Its always better to use construction lumber right away becuase the moisture content whether treated or not is off the charts. As it dries it will twist up and if its not stacked square that will only exacerbate the issue.
Thanks for chiming in, I really didn’t want to alarm him unnecessarily, but after framing nearly half of my own home by myself the last 4 years I’ve come to the point where I don’t dare buy the wood unless I know I’ll be using it in the next 1 to 3 days. Even it takes more trips it’s worth it to me. I took 4 trips to the lumber yard as a result to just frame out my screen wall.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Doing what I can to get this framed out ASAP. Bummer the first guy bailed on the project.
 
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Your framing for the screen wall looks meticulous and well done. Why hire out??


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Sorry that was my wall I was just trying to give the OP an example. I had to make so many trips to make sure I was using the wood when it was at it straightest. In hindsight I wonder if using LVLs would have been smarter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Small update is due to share some progress - - framing is complete for the theater and rack area under the stairs. They are finishing framing up the soffits and remaining parts of the basement this week.

The wood was mostly salvageable after a month of waiting for a contractor. Badly warped pieces were able to be used for small areas and and scraps around door frames.

Happy with how the IB-3’s were incorporated so far and the double stud wall under the I-beam was a challenge, but seems like they decoupled it well

Also, excited for this AXS MA rack that will slide out from under my stairs



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Rough framing inspection passed on Wednesday, moving ahead!

Went ahead and scheduled rough electrical for next week. Soundproofing wise, will it break the shell of the room to do the riser first? I see a lot of rooms with the riser built after drywall, but I'm thinking the riser will need to be framed out for the electrician to rough in outlets. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The electrician can leave a coil of wire for the riser. Its best to rock the room then add the riser keeping it 1/2" or so from the walls.
This makes sense to seal off the room. Hopefully the coil of wire is acceptable to pass rough inspection. I’m sure my inspector doesn’t see power to risers all the time.
 

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I did it that way and didn't have an issue with my inspector but they are all different :) .

Hard to tell in this pic but right above the floor behind the drywall stack you can see the coil of sorts.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Feeling a little discouraged/overwhelmed after electrical was pulled today. Wondering if I’m chasing perfection with soundproofing, worth it in the end?

We are doing things by the book and pulled permits (probably our first mistake) I think the electrician was caught off guard when I started asking for wire coiled for later use for the riser and he doesn’t usually work with my city inspection so he wanted everything in boxes. So, to get power to a riser I think I will have to compromise and build it next. On top of that, each light will need a backer box (9 in the ceiling 10 in the soffit). He already added the lights in the soffit today and the hanging romex is waiting for boxes.




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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
With some advice from @BIGmouthinDC and @Jk7.2 things are making more sense. With all these recessed lights, building the projector into the back soffit, and speakers it sounds like its time to hang the clip and channel and build the light's backer boxes to rest on the channel to decouple the boxes. I have 10 more IB-3 clips left I'll use to decouple the projector box, and 4 atmos speakers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Exciting delivery day today! Holiday weekend project will start tomorrow to pre-wire and prep, going to lift and shift my old rack from the living room into the basement after the drywall dust settles.

Anyone use vertical cable? It was compatible price wise to monoprice, but worked with a local distributor and it is made in America. Looks like solid stuff.

Going to have a coat closet at the front door soon (for the first time). I will show my current rack, and since it will be gone soon my embarrassing wiring into the rack (lots of lessons learned for this time around). Moving from the Omnimount 27U to a MA AXS-43U







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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Going a little slow, but making progress.

Hard part of moving my rack from the living room closet to the basement is just about complete. About 20 speaker wires (WHA and living room 7.1) and 20 cat cables.

Boxer boxes for recessed lights, atmos and projector were an effort to get done, but clip and channeled and the electrician tied in the rest of the lights and rough electrical today.

Rough plumbing for the basement bathroom is happening tomorrow and should be getting to insulation and drywall coming up soon.






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