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I agree with Stereodude. I actually have four of those powering my amps. I did them slightly different, but the same outcome. Make sure if you get those relays that you mount the to metal receptacle box so it can act as a heat sink. Those SS relays are good up to 20a with a heat sink and only 5a without the heat sink.
 

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I'm going to go with the electromechanical on my next amp or three. I did an SSR inside an iNuke case and thermal pasted it to the chassis but an SSR is really the wrong tool for this job, they're great when you need to switch on and off hundreds or thousands of times a day- think turning a heater coil on and off to stay within a defined range- but we only need to switch once or twice a day, so the mechanical is probably better considering it doesn't reduce output or expend heat. There is just the concern of transient voltage spikes which are easily shunted.

The cool thing is they both work-


via Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Drilling a perfectly vertical hole is difficiult but mandatory for proper installation of the driver so I found this thing:



Coupled with a clamp, I should be able to get the holes vertical. The plan is to drill a small starter hole by hand in the center of the area marked by using the driver as a template and then using this combination to insure I get the desired results.

 

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Glad to see this thread going! You shouldreally like the HSTs and output wise 4 properly powered and setup will not disappoint. :) In terms of displacement they won't be far off from the 8 LAB 15 drivers. ;)

Give me a call should you have install/setup questions. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Progress:

The initial build of the 4 boxes in complete. After shlepping these around, I am actually glad the dual opposed 18's were not available!!



Not one of them has every edge perfectly lined up. Not so far off that sanding won't fix it but I thought I could do better than that:

To be done:

Caulk the inside to insure no leaks. I have seen multiple caulk recommendatoins but one has potential shrinkage, another lets off a gas that could impact the driver, etc. So which is best?

Test for leaks (I have some ideas I want to try out. Need to go to a Parker Store to buy the pieces to make this work)

Sand, fill as necessary and re-sand the exterior

Add what ever needs to be pre-installed for feet (feet recommendations?)

Drill and install driver mounting hardware. These

Paint the boxes

Wire the boxes

Install Walmart pillows (what, specifically should these contain?)

Schlepp the boxes upstairs

Add the drivers

Pray !!
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Stuffing, r13 or r11 or whatever works
Don't some folks use pillows from Walmart? If so, what do they need to be stuffed with?

Smooth filter over the MDF edges to seal them up and then sand. Otherwise they'll soak up paint. If going with duratex, you can skip.
Thanks. I am using Duratex for exactly that reason plus "no points off for sloppiness" .
 

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To be done:

Caulk the inside to insure no leaks. I have seen multiple caulk recommendatoins but one has potential shrinkage, another lets off a gas that could impact the driver, etc. So which is best?
I use "Alex Plus"

Add what ever needs to be pre-installed for feet (feet recommendations?)
Whatever you use don't use feet with anchors that go through the box. Air leaks etc.

Install Walmart pillows (what, specifically should these contain?)
All pillows are full of Polyester fill. It works pretty good. You can get large boxes of it from fabric stores cheaper than the wall-mart pillows. You can also use fibreglass insulation (the pink stuff) It works better than poly-fill. You can also use upholstery foam shredded into little blocks. It works best of all.
 

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Anything you use that goes through the box can be made air leak free by use of caulking around the penetration point. Poly-fill, as mentioned, is cheapest and more consistent if bought in large bags from your local fabric store. There's a calculator to help you calculate lbs per cubic feet. Start at .5 lbs and if you think you need more add. It's easy to stuff in the box and no other actions are needed.

Any latex caulk will work. Permatex black will also work for larger areas of penetration vs. the joints.

Test for leaks? Drop the driver in, secure, and push on the cone. You will know if you have an air tight seal or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #76

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Caulk the inside to insure no leaks. I have seen multiple caulk recommendatoins but one has potential shrinkage, another lets off a gas that could impact the driver, etc. So which is best?
You can use silicone, you just need to make sure to let it fully cure for a few days before installing the drivers. Latex caulk doesn't have that issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Got an email from Nick showing my drivers under construction. They should be completed by weeks end and shipped. These things are serious looking. Very!!!





I also finished caulking the inside of all 4 cabinets and got two of them completely sanded. (Amazing how a power sander can cover up less than perfect work!!!) As I was using the caulk and looking inside one of the cabinets, I saw light coming from a seam. Sure glad I am caulking.
 

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@audioguy you mentioned in the first post that you could not wait for a dual opposed cabinet to get made, where were you sourcing for that? I am curios since It is something I have been considering.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I was getting them from [email protected]

He wasn't going to be able to get them to me in a timely fashion so i switched to single driver enclosures. Should you choose to go that direction, I hope you are strong. I think it weighs something like 180pounds without drivers.
 
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