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· Registered
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Might be an odd question here but lets do it.

I am working with a DIY painted screen (standard white so far) with flat black (Mouse Ear Black) screen wall. Just added a combination of 1x3 and 1x2s to "frame" in the white screen wall. What are some standard options for painting/staining the wood.

White pine, some knots, some imperfections, but nothing that bothers me too much until i get a new projector and make the seitch to a 2.35 solution.

I have on hand more Mouse Ear flat, some semi gloss "forever black" by behr, some various greys (dark and light), any of these worth it for a nice looking frame? Or should i go towards stain and poly for a natural wood finish.

Nothing else in the room is wood, and the side and back walls are "burnt mahogney" glidden, just a dark flat brown. Seats are black leather for what its worth.

Opinions appreciated.

· Premium Member
15,073 Posts
Ive been considering the same question and will be interested to see what some of the more experienced folks around say
I was thinking since I will be laying new stained trim in my basement going for as dark a stain look as I can get, that this would be really neat to frame the screen in with as well for a nice match. I plan on making a sample of that, some wrapped velvet as others around here have done with much success and then a plain flat black paint (mouse ears or the like) and decide which one I like the best. matching up with your mahogany would look pretty sweet I would guess...as long as you could mitigate any or all of the reflectivity at the same time

Its always good to take advice but go with what you think you will like the most in the long run. since this is a little different monster than the actual screen materials, the variations are obviously going to be endless and not hurt you too much one way or another.

· Registered
6,411 Posts
Not really sure if you are talking about around the screen proper or around the wall that the screen is on but well beyond the black frame you should have around the image.

Anything in your visual clone that reflects light (shines), even the slightest, will distract from the image and even black paint can shine so keep this in mine.

· DIY Granddad (w/help)
25,219 Posts

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/19596813

In the end I don't think you will ever find a black paint that comes close to the effect of using black velvet as a border.

While that statement is essentially dead-on correct, there are times even Black Velvet becomes less than absolutely necessary.

Here's a factoid that bears repeating.


The Screen wall itself will not reflect a single Fl. of the Screen's light. It simply cannot....the light output from the screen cannot bend back upon itself.

The Black on/around the screen is for help both framing the perimeter of the image, and to give the eye-to-brain a reference Black by which to assimilate other "on Screen Blacks and make them "seem to be" as black as the reference.

So what does it mean if you have so dark a wall area as to have no lighted expanse of wall around the Screen? Well, everything will depend upon how dark the room is.

If one is using a uber-bright PJ and a High Contrast Screen surface to both boost perceived Black levels and combat ambient light, then the presence of that ambient light...and it's ability to illuminate the wall area surrounding the Screen means that either the Screen wall should be as dark as possible (Disney Mouse Ears will get'er dun fer shur! It's the best "Flat Black" I've ever found...) or the immediate border around the Screen must be "Blacker than Black" (ie: blacker than any potential "projected black".)

Consider this: In a totally darkened room and with an image perfectly framed withing a Black border, you will NEVER see the Black Border...so it becomes a non-issue. Only when you have significant projected light over-spilling onto such a border, or any real degree of ambient light that is illuminating the Screen/Screen wall does a truely "ultimate Black" Border become absolutely required.

Proximity (...and angle...) of adjoining Wall/Ceiling surfaces and how reflective they are counts for more as far as affecting the quality of the image coming off the screen than the actual Screen wall could ever possibly do (...which is almost nil...) Obviously the intensity of the light reflected off a wall will be less than the directed (projected) light, but if those surfaces are bright / light enough the result will be a degradation of the deepest Blacks into gray or brownish tones.

The Mouse Ears itself would be sufficient if the adjoining surfaces do not introduce much reflection. If you can project your image to accurately fill the screen area, you can simply float the screen within the perimeter. The Mouse will take care of any tiny amount of image over-spill. (...Tiny means exactly that, so get that image squared diagonally...)

I know that the above might seem like Heresy coming from the Bishop of Black Velvet Trim, but it doesn't take the Devil to make me myself use a "Floating Screen" effect whenever possible. Trim...painted or wrapped, is meant to effect the formerly mentioned purposes. Remove the color of the Screen Wall and accomplish the ability to effectively frame a squared image and the Trim becomes redundant.

All this alludes to your doing a perfect job of cutting in the Screen paint/Wall color though. ........
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