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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - first post here, but due to the wisdom of this board I'm almost 6 months into proud ownership of a Fujitsu P50(40) and *still* can't get over how amazing the picture is! (ISF-calibrated)


My question relates to the proper use of the 5 Wide modes (Wide1, Wide2, Zoom1, Zoom2, Normal) when using 480i DVD input via HDMI. (I have a Sony NS975 DVD player). [I'm using 480i on the theory that the scaler in the P50 will almost certainly be better than the scaler in the DVD player]


I thought I had it pretty much figured out, using just Wide1 and Wide2 and simply using whichever one looked more "right". But then I stumbled across a review at UltimateAV (I can't post a URL, but go to ultimateavmag and then /videoprojectors/505fujitsu) of a Fujistu projector that appears to have the same Wide modes. The descriptions of them (bottom of Page 1) made me wonder if I should be using Zoom1 instead of Wide1. And, in fact, I have found some movies that look better at Zoom1 rather than Wide1.


My goal is to make this as easy as possible. I have a URC 850 universal remote, and right now have buttons for WIDE1 and WIDE2. But I'm rethinking that, and wondering if it would be better to have buttons for all of the modes, or just to have a single WIDE button that toggles through all of them. (for example, I watched the bonus materials of the Indiana Jones trilogy recently, and they looked best on Normal (4:3)).


The question is: what is the best mode to use for certain kinds of DVDs? Is it just a matter of "what looks right", or are there really solid rules that would enable me to exclude certain modes from consideration? I just shudder at guests using our system and watching movies that looked squashed, or have parts cut off, because they can't figure out how to make it look right!


Many thanks! --Erik
 

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Anamorphic DVDs - wide2

Non-anamorphic DVDs - wide1

zoom1 and zoom2 will crop off something. zoom2 will crop more from top so you can keep scoreboard tickers and such viewable on the bottom (IIRC).

Normal will display whatever you feed it as is.


larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great - that's what I had suspected - nice to have it confirmed. I'll probably stick with WIDE1 and WIDE2 on my remote, and maybe add a button for NORMAL.


Thanks! --Erik
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adb
I've found that overall wide one is the best.
Are you using Wide 1 for anamorphic DVDs? If so, compare to wide 2. There is distortion with wide1. Wide 2 is the correct mode for anamorphic DVDs.
 

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ebailey said:
My question relates to the proper use of the 5 Wide modes (Wide1, Wide2, Zoom1, Zoom2, Normal) when using 480i DVD input via HDMI. (I have a Sony NS975 DVD player). [I'm using 480i on the theory that the scaler in the P50 will almost certainly be better than the scaler in the DVD player]


How do you go about getting the P50 to scale thru the display as opposed to a dvd player or cable box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by StockInv
How do you go about getting the P50 to scale thru the display as opposed to a dvd player or cable box?
This is a matter of being able to set your DVD to output 480i. I'm lucky in that my DVD player (Sony 975) is one of the few that will do this over HDMI (that was a purchase criterion for me), so it's just as simple as that. Once you are sending 480i in, it's all up to the display.


--Erik
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry G
Shouldn't non anamorphic widescreen DVDs use Zoom 1?
Jerry - this is exactly what I was wondering about in the original post. I do tend to agree with adb that for most circumstances WIDE1 is best (i.e., I'd rather have it default to WIDE1 and manually switch to WIDE2 when necessary than vice-versa). But I'm still unsure of the differences between WIDE1 and ZOOM1 (and whether they differ by disc and/or aspect ratio, or if only one or the other should be used).


As I wrote in my earlier followup, I think I'm going to stick with WIDE1 and WIDE2, and not use ZOOM1, but I'm still interested in viewpoints of anyone who regularly uses ZOOM1.


Thanks for the responses - love this board! :) --Erik
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebailey
. . . I'm still unsure of the differences between WIDE1 and ZOOM1 (and whether they differ by disc and/or aspect ratio, or if only one or the other should be used). . .
Wide1 enlarges the whole 4x3 picture (top and bottom slightly cropped) and stretches the edges slightly. That's why it's best for 4x3 TV, where very little important stuff is framed to remain near the top or edges.


Zoom1 enlarges a little more than Wide 1 - enlarging enough, in fact, to take the left and right edges out to the sides of the screen WITHOUT stretching the edges. It's best for letterboxed, non-anamorphic content like movies on TNC or that period when most Disney DVD's were letterbox non-anamorphic.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebailey
As I wrote in my earlier followup, I think I'm going to stick with WIDE1 and WIDE2, and not use ZOOM1, but I'm still interested in viewpoints of anyone who regularly uses ZOOM1.
See trainerdave's post above this. Here's how I view:


Anamorphic DVD: Wide 2


Non anamorphic letterboxed DVD or a broadcast channel showing something in letterbox: Zoom 1


4:3 DVD or broadcast material: Normal with no distortion. Or if I want to stretch the image, Wide 1, which will cut off some of the image, or wide 2 which cuts off less but has a bit more distortion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry G
Here's how I view:


Anamorphic DVD: Wide 2


Non anamorphic letterboxed DVD or a broadcast channel showing something in letterbox: Zoom 1


4:3 DVD or broadcast material: Normal with no distortion. Or if I want to stretch the image, Wide 1, which will cut off some of the image, or wide 2 which cuts off less but has a bit more distortion.
Jerry and trainerdave - thanks so much to both of you! I now understand this much better. I will start using the same logic as Jerry specifies above - that makes sense to me.


Trainerdave - thanks for the clear explanation - I'm now able to make more sense of the descriptions in the manual.


--Erik
 
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