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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK so it's not really a different speaker it's just a different take on it that my friend and I have drawn up. The idea started with just sloping the top so the back of the speaker was higher than the front. From there we decided to slope the sides in a similar fashion so the baffle is slimmer than the back. Next we decided to throw a little lean on it - the top isn't as deep as the bottom giving the speakers a laid back look. Apparently at that point we had the great inspiration to throw a taper from top to bottom on the sides as well. Then the real fun started. What if the left and right had a slope on the horizontal plane so they look like they're leaning in toward the center. Lastly we had maybe had too much to drink and decided that for the left and right speakers we'd pull the outside edge of the front baffle out toward the listener a little... That last idea got scrapped after we made the mockup though fortunately. The effect of pulling the side toward the listener had the unintended effect of making it look less sloped across the top. Also we can just toe the speaker in and it will be pretty much the same thing on the sides anyone will see.

They end up being somewhere between 30" and 32" tall depending on which speaker you measure, where you measure it. Construction should be quite the chore but I'm optimistic that we'll end up with something that's pretty cool looking. For now the plan is to use about 1.5" worth of 3" PVC pipe (painted black) for the feet. I'm considering painting them a matte dark blue but that's still up in the air. So far everyone I've mentioned that plan to has been surprised... Might just do black or maybe do what I wanted to with my last speakers - paint them white or really light cream color, let my kids draw all over them, then throw some clear coat over the drawings to preserve them :)

I have the most recent Blender file from my buddy and will get that imported into Sketchup sometime in the near future so I can mockup the new "left" speaker and make sure it looks right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Much progress has been made!

We took the Blender model and exported it to a Google Sketchup.

From Google Sketchup we were able to get measurements of all of the sides. We were also able to get the intersecting angle of all of the intersections by changing the axis.

With the measurements of the sides we were able to determine how to draw each piece for cutting. I took this information along with the intersecting angles and made a sheet for each unique panel we had to cut (one sheet for the center front, center sides, center top, center bottom, center back, sides front, sides back, sides top, sides inside side, and sides outside side - the bottoms were all the same due to the way we did the final design where the outside side of the side speakers just keeps going up an extra couple inches...).

We decided that the least complicated way to do the panels would be to miter all of the angles. So every cut needs to be at an angle and the angle will be 1/2 of the intersecting angle with the intersecting side. The panels are then the full measurement of the side in all instances. If we hadn't done this we would have had to do this cut on some of the pieces anyway and would have had to do even more geometry to determine how large of pieces to cut (for example if the inside panel was set into the front baffle we'd need to calculate the hypotenuse of a right triangle whose leg is 3/4" and has an angle of the intersecting angle to figure out how much less than the whole width of the side to make that panel... then we would have had to cut the edge of the baffle at the correct angle anyway and cut the piece at the correct angle anyway...)

Armed with these cheat sheets, a small angle tool we picked up at Home Depot, a circular saw, and a straight edge + clamps we set out to cut all of these crazy panels.

We found that what worked best for us was to cut the angle of the "bottom" of the piece, use the cheat sheet to draw the panel, then cut the remaining sides following the drawn lines. As we drew the panels up we wrote what each piece was, what each side connected to, and what the angle to that side was supposed to be. To do the angles we set the angle tool to half of the intersecting angle then changed the angle of the circular saw cut to match up with the angle tool... There's plenty of room for error in this but we knew we weren't going to get perfect results no matter how hard we tried.

Over the last 3 weekends we got all of the panels cut. Last weekend I started in on the baffles. I had intended to do a double baffle but hadn't done the work to figure out the details. I thought I'd just continue the current baffle's angles and do another baffle right on top. Unfortunately I found that if I did that there wouldn't be enough room to attach the waveguide to it... Instead I ended up cheating. I cut a 16"x16" piece and glued that behind the woofer cutout. The woofer will be mounted to this piece. I tried to make a jig to help with the flush mounting of the waveguide but that ended up being wasted effort... I got it all setup and the jig wasn't clamped well enough and moved. It would have worked out fine if I would have done this before cutting the baffle but there just wasn't enough material above the waveguide to attach my jig to. I ended up just freehanding this from a drawn line and was surprised that it went smoothly :)

As it stands right now we have all of the pieces cut and the baffle ready to go. The next step will be trying to glue one together. We're going to use PL Premium as there are some gaps, especially on the center back panel where it ended up ~1/8" too narrow. I think we're going to use the duct tape method again but with PL Premium applied as we go. We're then going to try to use ratchet straps to apply pressure... There's very little in the way of square sides though so I don't know how much success we'll have with this. Wrapping the center channel from top to bottom is the only side that won't have a way to slip as we try to tighten things down... We might be able to put a clamp on the baffle in a couple different spots to hold the ratchet straps from sliding past though...


More to come! Still have to do the crossovers but I bought the circuit boards for them so there won't be too much drama there :)
 

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Looking great! It's nice to see some original takes on some popular products. Since you've gone this far, why not take it to the next level and do up an exotic wood veneer? I'll be honest, the idea of letting the kids draw all over them makes me cringe, but whatever floats your boat! They will be unique, regardless. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looking great! It's nice to see some original takes on some popular products. Since you've gone this far, why not take it to the next level and do up an exotic wood veneer? I'll be honest, the idea of letting the kids draw all over them makes me cringe, but whatever floats your boat! They will be unique, regardless. :)
Thanks! I don't think the kids drawing will really happen. I'm still kicking around the idea of painting them blue but we'll see. It will depend a lot on how nice we can get everything filled in on the corners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
More progress! Got the cabs all glued together. Lots of PL Premium + a little duct tape to hold the general shape + ratchet straps = pretty good results. For anyone attempting a similar build I'd strongly suggest cutting a little extra off of all the angles. Angles that are too wide result in gaps (that I'll be filling, probably with bondo...). Erring on the other side doesn't have too much in the way of negatives. It's a little harder to get them lined up but as long as you have the panels cut the right size I think everything would go together really nice.

Up next I have to do the bracing. I started with some scraps laying around but am going to use 2x4 ripped into 1" strips for the rest. I'm not sure if I should try to tie the top to the bottom in some way, possibly through the other braces (since it's too late to physically get that size brace into the speaker now without drilling a hole in the bottom lol). For the rest of the bracing I have a picture of the center with mocked up bracing. Four front to back braces on the corners of the woofer cutout, two side to side braces. Bracing this is surprisingly easy. Cut a piece at about the right angle about the right length then just rubber mallet it into place (since everything tapers haha).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lots more progress! These are darn near done at this point. I ended up doing 3 rounds of bondo on the edges to get them nice and sharp. For paint I used Duratex black rolled on (I accidentally bought the spray grade but it worked just fine). I hadn't worked with Duratex before and was thoroughly impressed with the stuff. It goes on easy, cleans up easy, doesn't smell while it dries, dries fast, and took only about 1/3 of a gallon to paint all three of these speakers (three coats each). The only downside was that it said not to use it if the surface temp was going to be below 65 and it's been chilly here. I ended up painting them in the dining room, which made the plus about no smell extra appreciated. While carrying them into the house I dinged one of the corners though :( I'm sure I should have redone it but I didn't... It filled in pretty OK with Duratex though and it's not a very noticeable corner (it's on the top but is the back left corner of the right speaker).

I used two full cotton insulation water heater blankets to line the insides and fill in behind the waveguide. I planned to use spray adhesive but it fit in there so nice I ended up just skipping that - I don't think it's going anywhere.

For the crossovers I picked up the boards so it was super easy. The only hang up I had was that I either didn't get or misplaced the actual instructions for how to assemble the crossover (what piece goes where). Fortunately I found a video on Youtube that mtg90 posted of how to assemble the XO with the board for the Fusion-12 Tempest and was able to figure out where everything went.

The only issue I had with assembly was with my port holes. I knew I didn't have them all the exact same size since I couldn't see the hole I needed on the Jasper Jig (since it was under the base of the router). The ports are pressure fit... two holes were a little big so I wrapped the port in masking tape to fit. One hole is too small though and I'll have to come up with a way to make it bigger... I'm thinking I'll affix a piece of MDF behind the baffle and attach a small round piece of MDF to that then can put a pin in that and route the circle a bit bigger... I might try to get a hold of a router bit that will take off only 1/16" though - might be able to use a flush trim bit I have with a smaller berring on the end.


Right now they're setup in my living room and they sound absolutely fantastic! I've been throwing all my favorites at them and everything has been great.

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion%2012%20Monolith/IMG_1529.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1536.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1540.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1544.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1546.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1549.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1551.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1552.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1553.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1554.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1555.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1556.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1557.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww131/lennon_68/Fusion 12 Monolith/IMG_1559.jpg
 
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