[videohot]

I am very close to sending the bucks off for a new G15 to replace my G1000. Rather than running on a 1.0 gain 78" wide Draper screen I am interested in moving to a 104" wide Greyhawk .9 or Da-lite .8 grey screen but am concerned about brightness.


Has anyone measured the TRUE lumen output after a typical Calibration on a G15 and a G1000?


Mark Foster at one point told me that a G11 was seemingly twice as bright as a G1000 but the specs say they are the same and he had no real measurements to back it up.


Apparently the 1000 lumen output of a M150 is the calibrated result of G15 optics too.


My neighbors lowly 7" zenith CRT projector is according to him noticeably brighter than my JVC calibrated G1000.


I feel like all I can get is a "peak power wattage rating" type of thing as used to be the situation with amplifiers.


Anyone have definitive info or have you moved up to a G15 from a 1000 and changed to a grey screen in the process?


Thanks for any help!


Larry Vale




------------------

G1000 D-ILA

Lexicon MC1 7.1 system

Radeon Based HTPC

NHT, velodyne & bag end speaker systems

Panasonic, Dish, HDTV recording setup.


[This message has been edited by videohot (edited 06-26-2001).]

 

[Dean McManis]

Larry,


I had an Electrohome FPTV with 7" CRTs and around 140 Lumens, to a Sony 1292Q with 9" CRTs and 225 Lumens, to a calibrated G1000/ISCO combo which was probably putting out about 550 Lumens mid-bulb life, to my current calibrated G15/ISCO setup which is probably outputting a real 1000 Lumens with 700Hrs on it.


The percieved light output goes beyond the straight numbers because our eyes are so good at compensating for low light environments.


So the Electrohome look quite good, but it would wash out with any room light.


The Sony was visibly brighter on the same size screen, and it would do a good job even with some indirect light on in the room.


The G1000 was again visibly brighter, afforded a 1.0 gain screen that was larger, and again was more resistant to incedent light with the added ISCO lens.


The G15/ISCO setup now supports a Grayhawk perforated screen 156" wide, and you can get a decent looking picture with all of the room lights on.


I think that mark talked about the G1000 having about 700 lumens, with the G11 better optics being closer to an actual 1000 lumens (with new bulbs), and both losing about 15% light due to calibration.


You might look at getting a Panamorph lens (if available), or an ISCO II because you already have a HTPC, so scaling would be easy, and the lens offers a visible brightness improvement that should be able to support a 104" wide Grayhawk.


Of course the G15 can do it with no sweat so your choice would probably be related to the price of the G15-G1000 compared to the price of the lens.


-Dean.

 

[videohot]

Dean,


First off thank you for your reply. I was about to email you after going through your old posts on the ISCO since I have a short wide room comparatively speaking. GREAT for the audio side but the projector is another story. I seem to be limited to a 104" wide screen using the panamorph which I preordered when I thought the present position of all of it was ok.


Now I want to move everything against my long "window wall" and put black velvet one side draw drapes behind it. They fortunately draw from an alcove so when not in use are hidden completely. I have been looking at a new greyhawk and the da-lite screen yet the width still bothers me.


Your answer on the brightness issue convinced me to pop for a G15 tomorrow.


I was also interested in Shawns' Panamorph II so I could display 235 with the a static width screen, with variable height, and a drop down variable (if needed) mask at the top. I think I really want/need the ISCO II if the quality of the image is on a par with the Panamorph and I can get the wider image.


I have been waiting for reviews before I order a screen.


I am still trying to figure out in my head if I can set a image size within YXY and use Dilard to move the image "on the fly" to bring 235 or other sizes other than 1.78 to the top of the screen, and use the an extended top dropdown black masking which I had planned on ordering and use nearly the full panel of the G15. OK, if not the full panel at least use a good portion of it and still have proper positioning for me.


It seems that Mark Hunter has had no problems re-flashing the G series over and over. That would still allow me to get maximum brightness on anamorphically encoded 1.78 DVD's and not change the width but give me MOST of the pixel usage on 235+ DVD's correct?


Acadamy material can sit in the middle of the 16x9 as far as I'm concerned, I don't watch that much other than HD or newish DVD on the D-ILA anyway.


Is my very late nite logic sound?


Anyone else have a comment?


Larry Vale




------------------

G1000 D-ILA

Lexicon MC1 7.1 system

Radeon Based HTPC

NHT, velodyne & bag end speaker systems

Panasonic, Dish, HDTV recording setup.

 

[JSC]

Larry,

Another thing to consider is that the bulbs that shipped with the G10s & clones tended to dim sooner and more markedly than newer G11 bulbs that can retrofitted.

G11's will be brighter than G10's in all circumstances, but the older G10 bulbs can exaggerate the difference.

Jeff

 

[Dean McManis]

If your budget supports it, the G15 is a great choice.


As far as your choices for anamorphic lens, I have been down the same road.


I originally chose the ISCO I lens because at the time it was the only commercial option available. The ISCO II offers all the original lens does and better.


I had chosen the ISCO because I wanted a large screen relative to my throw distance, and all the other benefits.


I do use YXY to both position the 2.35:1 image at the top of my 16:9 screen, and to format 4:3 movies for the 16:9 lens.


But I have also preordered the Panamorph II lens to try and have an optimal picture for 2.35:1 movies (which comprise the bulk of my DVDs), and I'm hoping to create a 2.35:1 input mode with Dilard to work with 2.35:1 HD movies.


The downside for my setup will that I will have to mask the screen on the sides and top/bottom for my 16:9 screen, but I think that it will be worth it.


You will have more flexibility with your choices because you are building from scratch, and there are no real bad choices between these different lenses, screens, and room setups.


-Dean.