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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The build has started! I have never built a thing in my life. Thankfully a couple buddies are handy.

Full Marty

Si 18 D2

Inuke 3000dsp

8 2x4 Handy panels of 3/4 MDF

Following the one cut directions.

Tightbond 2, brad nails, screws.

I have all the wood cut and items above have been delivered.

Pictures of the progress are on my phone. I'll upload after dinner.


Couple questions.

The sub fits great but we used a jigsaw. Should I throw a bead of silicon down just as a precaution?

Should I put some wood around the baffle so the screws have something more to bite into?

How far do I push the double front baffle in from the front, or is pushing it in mainly to put a grill on flush with the front

Do I HAVE do flush mount the driver?

The 3 inch slot supports are truly 3 inches tall and 47 inches long? Or does the length not matter as long as they are at least the length of the port?


You all are incredible....I don't think anyone else but you guys understand why I am doing this... my buddies were trying to understand why something like the 2 8 inch subs in a bandpass box that was in his daughters jeep wouldn't be enough... or why would you need more than the HTIB Onkyo 10 I currently have (80 watts). They will understand when we are done lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Chaluga, your info has been amazing. I was so close to getting the flat from you. but I also wanted to do this to prove I can... may sound odd, but its going to be worth it.

Yes if you want it done right... you have to copy a design from this forum
I can't stress how thankful I am for all the information.


Chaluga if I have air leaking, what should I use.... or recut?
 

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Sooly1,


Best of luck on your build! I'm looking forward to watching your progress. Im also a Marty sub fan ( im just about to finish my full size marty, and i finished my marty cube about a week ago ). ps- perhaps i missed it, but how are planning on finishing the sub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Kevings, indeed, I have been hawking these forums and reading every update since you started your build lol. My wife and I left for Jamaica THE DAY my 3000dsp arrived, (the final piece). I spent an incredible week at the Jewel in Ocho Rios...I had to forget I had this build waiting for me when I got home.

There are a few options I have seen for finish. My buddy owns a flooring store and we kicked around the idea of tile. That may make the marty WAY WAY to heavy and matching tile to my room may prove difficult. Another idea was flat black paint..but people will be drinking in my theater room sooooo that was tossed. That Duratex stuff looks great as well. Short story long, I havn't decided haha.

Just to give you all an idea, here is a glimpse of the room before it was done. At this point, about a year later, the screen has warped, I'm not happy with my monoprice in wall speakers, my HTIB 10 sub was letting me down the more movies we watched,my HTIB Onkyo receiver doesn't do HDMI audio or 3d, BUT, I still love the projector. W1070.

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sooly1  /t/1522587/give-me-the-full-marty#post_24484065


Thanks Chaluga, your info has been amazing. I was so close to getting the flat from you. but I also wanted to do this to prove I can... may sound odd, but its going to be worth it.

Yes if you want it done right... you have to copy a design from this forum
I can't stress how thankful I am for all the information.


Chaluga if I have air leaking, what should I use.... or recut?

No problem doing it yourself .. I know the proud feeling your going to have. Depends on how big and where. If your joints are tight then just put a bead of dap silicone on the inside seams . If its a 1/8" gap then pl construction adhesive. Use speaker gasket tape underneath the sub. Take a picture if you run into a problem. Tonnes of folks here will help.
 

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A week in Jamaica, and now the fun of building a marty sub.....life is treating you well right now! : )


an idea that may help you out....google "custom hometheater subs" or something like that and look through all the different images....you'll see plenty of different finishes and perhaps ID something you really like. If you hot for tile, you could always use it, but just not cover the sub from top to bottom with it, to keep the weight down. In the future, ill be building a ported box, for a 12 inch sub that i have, and im planning on using some glass tile ribbon ( avail at home depot ) along the perimeter of the enclosure. Should make for a pretty unique little sub. Also, check out some of the veneers to that are out there. They cost some money, but your gonna have this sub for who knows how long..so whats a few bucks if it's gonna make you happy every time you look at it.


Regarding duratex...it's a pretty killer finish. Some dont like it and think it looks a little to pro audio / not sophisticated enough, but i disagree. You can control the amount of texture, to get the look you want, and it's rock hard once dry, which will be good if one of your drinking buddies happens to wack the sub accidentally.


Regarding your room.....do you have a pic of how it's currently looking? I always love checking out other peoples setups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·




I'll have more as we finish it up.

We mocked it up and found that the vent supports were to long, so I need to trim them back. Other than that it was all square. Ready to be brad nailed, glued, clamped, braced, and woofed

By the way, the subwoofer cut out that you see is the BACK. not the side that will fit on the sub. It is not a very good cut as you can see lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is the room, as of right now sitting in that ratty old chair by the laptop lol. There is so much to be done yet, like a ceiling, and that HUGE black wall is my brick basement foundation coated to death with black paint and waterproofing paint. All of my seats are third row seats from SUVs or minivans. My neighbor welded bases on them. The carpet on the wall was from a casino bingo place my buddies carpet store installed and they had it left over. Kids toys up front in the seats, This entire room was a terrible basement with cracking cement floor that we refinished, then put up the walls, ect. A Horrible amount of work went into getting to the point that we could even wire it. Now, looking back on it all, after the countless parties, movie nights, Sporting events, and on and on, I wouldn't have a house without it. It's the new living room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another question. The D4s were out of stock by the time I ordered. The d2 and inuke 3000dsp will be great BUT, if I split the lfe out from the receiver into both channels of the inuke and wire each coil on its own channel, will that be ok for the sub? If so what should I limit power output to?

If that wiring option will work I will have a speak on for each coil.

I was a mobile dj for 10 years for weddings. I had a few speakon cables and connectors left over from that. I'll just use speaker wire inside the box and solder them to +1 and -1 for dual 2ohm connection on the outside of the box. Sunday can't get here soon enough. I should have more progress to report Sunday evening.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sooly1  /t/1522587/give-me-the-full-marty#post_24484607


Another question. The D4s were out of stock by the time I ordered. The d2 and inuke 3000dsp will be great BUT, if I split the lfe out from the receiver into both channels of the inuke and wire each coil on its own channel, will that be ok for the sub? If so what should I limit power output to?

If that wiring option will work I will have a speak on for each coil.

I was a mobile dj for 10 years for weddings. I had a few speakon cables and connectors left over from that. I'll just use speaker wire inside the box and solder them to +1 and -1 for dual 2ohm connection on the outside of the box. Sunday can't get here soon enough. I should have more progress to report Sunday evening.
Power output in the 1100-1200 watts area. I would double check with a pro if that wiring will work , not me:sly:
 

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awesome...another marty to the party!


with a single d2 driver and a 3000 amp, no need to do anything other than wire the coils in series for 4 ohms and put it on the amp in bridged mode. then set the limiter to about 1100 watts at 4 ohms.


technically you could wire each coil to a channel, but that just sounds like a recipe for possible mistakes and blowups.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02  /t/1522587/give-me-the-full-marty#post_24485341


awesome...another marty to the party!


with a single d2 driver and a 3000 amp, no need to do anything other than wire the coils in series for 4 ohms and put it on the amp in bridged mode. then set the limiter to about 1100 watts at 4 ohms.


technically you could wire each coil to a channel, but that just sounds like a recipe for possible mistakes and blowups.

For those with two d2 subs and a single inuke3000dsp the most they can get is 600 watts per sub ?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp  /t/1522587/give-me-the-full-marty#post_24485477


For those with two d2 subs and a single inuke3000dsp the most they can get is 600 watts per sub ?

I dunno chal.. The way I took it was 1100w with the limiter engaged?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02  /t/1522587/give-me-the-full-marty#post_24485663


at 4 ohms per channel, the 3000 will output about 650 watts per channel.

I was trying to find a work around but it's just not there from what I can see and limited knowledge. If there was you would know. Kinda seems if the budget is there going the 6000 with employing the limiter is the way to go if a guy wants to get the full potential out of his sub with the possibility of adding another down the road.


Oh! Didn't someone sort of mention that the other day with a single driver except not explain with a single 3000 bridged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ahh man LTD02 posted in my marty thread.... pressure is on. Thanks for the tips guys. Bridge for now. Well. I'm 34 years old BLASTING Lateralus and building a speaker with glue all over my hands... poor touch screen. Pics later.
 
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