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In my thread some internal lengths and were adjusted for material NOT .75,
so don't get ahead slicing and dicing wrt that ,

laying out where the panels go on the first side is of paramount importance wrt to "hit the mark"

just presume to have a "dero zefects" and total OCD attitude about starting off on the right foot . . .

tho as @LTD02 noted, other than hitting the mark for the driver throat spacing, there is wiggle room

I built Max to "ready to play" in only 19 days part time and taking sundays off, plus it was july and HOT!

and for a driver and its suitability,

recently @hd0823 built 2 (he originally wanted to build 4 -bless his heart) using a PE driver, maybe the 460 mentioned above, but I don't recall which at this time,

we haven't heard anything from his recent GTG but before that he was laughingly WOWED. Big SEG!

we had several good phone conversations in smoothing the way, especially about setting side 2, saved him "a few" hours

in my build I did mention the order of panel installation AFTER getting the dimensions laid out and rechecked on side A.

a real carpenter may know better than I , but the harder I worked at it the luckier I got

if your budget /space / WAF (?) allows, build 2.

an Inuke6Kdsp could be adequate . . . .
It's the pe um-18 and the g2g turned out great had most people thinking there was butt kickers in the seats and Brian6571 actually got startled a few times from the bass. I still want to build the other 2 v3s there price to performance is just that good.

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Lot of great info in that post by @LTD02 and the thread


1- 3/4 ply is the preferred material
2- No.... what LTD posted is way above and beyond what we normally see.
3- All depends on skills and tools.... but one might take 3-4 days.... ish
4- somewhere in this thread I believe there is talk about other drivers


EDIT..... here is the post on drivers
In my thread some internal lengths and were adjusted for material NOT .75,
so don't get ahead slicing and dicing wrt that ,

laying out where the panels go on the first side is of paramount importance wrt to "hit the mark"

just presume to have a "dero zefects" and total OCD attitude about starting off on the right foot . . .

tho as @LTD02 noted, other than hitting the mark for the driver throat spacing, there is wiggle room

I built Max to "ready to play" in only 19 days part time and taking sundays off, plus it was july and HOT!

and for a driver and its suitability,

recently @hd0823 built 2 (he originally wanted to build 4 -bless his heart) using a PE driver, maybe the 460 mentioned above, but I don't recall which at this time,

we haven't heard anything from his recent GTG but before that he was laughingly WOWED. Big SEG!

we had several good phone conversations in smoothing the way, especially about setting side 2, saved him "a few" hours

in my build I did mention the order of panel installation AFTER getting the dimensions laid out and rechecked on side A.

a real carpenter may know better than I , but the harder I worked at it the luckier I got

if your budget /space / WAF (?) allows, build 2.

an Inuke6Kdsp could be adequate . . . .
It's the pe um-18 and the g2g turned out great had most people thinking there was butt kickers in the seats and Brian6571 actually got startled a few times from the bass. I still want to build the other 2 v3s there price to performance is just that good.

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I have sent the drivers you suggested to a local store that sells woofers, hopefully they can get their hands on them as none of them are normally sold in their store. They primarily sell Beyma, RCF, Eminence (included a list of the brands they offer as a picture). Thanks for the suggestions and info! I have a friend who is a carpenter so he could help me with building.

Greetings
 

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I have sent the drivers you suggested to a local store that sells woofers, hopefully they can get their hands on them as none of them are normally sold in their store. They primarily sell Beyma, RCF, Eminence (included a list of the brands they offer as a picture). Thanks for the suggestions and info! I have a friend who is a carpenter so he could help me with building.

Greetings
Beyma makes a killer 18 that will work in this horn, BMS 18N862.

Edit, it is not Beyma it is BMS, sorry for the confusion.
 

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FTR and just to be current and available for all mankind . .

I updated my MaxV3 driver list to include the additions courtesy of @bscool and @hd0823

courtesy of due diligence from @chrapladm ,

His list of drivers for 

MAXV3 drivers

SO, so it looks like these drivers have suitable response shapes for this design:
18UXL Mach 5
18Zv3 Sundown
18SP4 D1 HT FI
18XL1800 FP
18N862 BMS
18 -JBL 2269
21SW152 BC
21DS115 BC
21IPAL BC

added 4-25, per jujuman200 and LTD02

RSS460ho is likely an "in between" driver with respect to the large coil option and not in hornresp. if you aren't familiar with what that is, let me know and i'll try to find some links for you. not sure if the 460ho has been tested/measured in the v3. except for a hair more ripple in the upper bass as compared to the uxl, it looks good to me. thumbs up!

Added 10-14 by bscool: Beyma makes a killer 18 that will work in this horn, BMS 18N862.

Also hd0823 used the PE Um-18 in building his 2 subs .
 

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FTR and just to be current and available for all mankind . .

I updated my MaxV3 driver list to include the additions courtesy of @bscool and @hd0823

courtesy of due diligence from @chrapladm ,

His list of drivers for 

MAXV3 drivers

SO, so it looks like these drivers have suitable response shapes for this design:
18UXL Mach 5
18Zv3 Sundown
18SP4 D1 HT FI
18XL1800 FP
18N862 BMS
18 -JBL 2269
21SW152 BC
21DS115 BC
21IPAL BC

added 4-25, per jujuman200 and LTD02

RSS460ho is likely an "in between" driver with respect to the large coil option and not in hornresp. if you aren't familiar with what that is, let me know and i'll try to find some links for you. not sure if the 460ho has been tested/measured in the v3. except for a hair more ripple in the upper bass as compared to the uxl, it looks good to me. thumbs up!

Added 10-14 by bscool: Beyma makes a killer 18 that will work in this horn, BMS 18N862.

Also hd0823 used the PE Um-18 in building his 2 subs .
@asarose247 I can't take credit for modeling the BMS 18N862 in this horn, it was already on the list that is why I mentioned it to someone. It was listed as "18N862 BMS" so I took it he didn't know it was a Beyma driver since he said he only had access to Beyma or something along those lines.

Edit it was @Droogne who asked about drivers.
 

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and you don't need 1/2" beads
True that you dont but it helps! When i built my 2 Othorns i used (no joke) like 9 tubes of pl. The stuff was everywhere. my subs look like crap cuz of how much there is but you could throw them out a plane and they would land without damage.
 

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wrt the list,
my bad,
I didn't read it thoroughly, recently

but don't let deter that any motivated builders

i'll reedit my saved doc.
 

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Beyma makes a killer 18 that will work in this horn, BMS 18N862.

Edit, it is not Beyma it is BMS, sorry for the confusion.
wrt the list,
my bad,
I didn't read it thoroughly, recently

but don't let deter that any motivated builders

i'll reedit my saved doc.
I was just modeling some subs for @Droogne and realized the BMS 18N862 is made by BMS, not Beyma. I don't know why I had it in my head that is was Beyma.
 

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I was just modeling some subs for @Droogne and realized the BMS 18N862 is made by BMS, not Beyma. I don't know why I had it in my head that is was Beyma.


I had a question about this and the FaitalPro x1800: then being 8ohms, does it hamper them in anyway other than finding an amp suitable enough to drive them?


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I had a question about this and the FaitalPro x1800: then being 8ohms, does it hamper them in anyway other than finding an amp suitable enough to drive them?


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I don't think t would matter, but I have never modeled a horn so someone that has could probably give you a better answer. From what I have seen modeling 2 drivers that are the same model from a manufacturer that makes an 4 ohm and an 8 ohms they are usually very close to each other modeling them in WINISD. They show a very small difference of less than 1 dB when modeling them in a sealed or ported enclosure.

But it might be a little different for a horn as they are more sensitive to changes from what I know.
 

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Okay. So IF I can rework my design for the front false wall and rework the soffit for the air ducts I would’ve able to place 1 of these in each corner of the front of the theater. Is there any gain in going with the B&C 21DS115-4 or -8 vs. using the UM18s? Other than changing the hole cut-out for the driver, does any of the dimensions change?


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FTR there wasn't ever much discussion about any dimensional changes wrt the "other drivers" list.
If anything, given the "wiggle room" wrt panel spacing, due to material thickness differences
hitting the mark for the driver throat placement/spacing seems to be go to spot for getting off on the right foot . .

driver cutout, that's easy,
do it in the right place -you'll be doing dry clamp-ups/pre-fits anyway,
this is just another one.
 
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I don’t have the knowledge to even have a clue wrt hornresp. So is there any measurable difference in going with the B&C21DS115 vs the Ultimax 18?


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I don’t have the knowledge to even have a clue wrt hornresp. So is there any measurable difference in going with the B&C21DS115 vs the Ultimax 18?


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I know in the submaximus v3 with the the b&c 21 hand down beats out the um 18. I swapped my 18s out for the 21s and my jaw dropped the first time we fired them up.

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Is MDF a bad idea for a submaximus? Having trouble finding plywood. All I have is home depot and lowes where I'm at.

Home depot didnt have the arauco ply that was recommended. They had a 2 sheets of "sande" plywood left but those had defects. Thay looked the closest to me. Am i being too picky?

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@BryceDH
^
both my V2 and V3 built from sander ply
they're already going to be heavy enough

and MDF is just nasty to work with, might be ok for some bracing

pay attention to the builds that have been done . . .

gonna be a winner
 

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Is MDF a bad idea for a submaximus? Having trouble finding plywood. All I have is home depot and lowes where I'm at.

Home depot didnt have the arauco ply that was recommended. They had a 2 sheets of "sande" plywood left but those had defects. Thay looked the closest to me. Am i being too picky?

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The one side will be not as nice the one thing I looked for was for it to be as void free on the ends that way I knew it was ok throughout.

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Does the mid-bass frequencies with a um 18 sound clean? I've never heard a sub that is a horn before.

I've got a um18 in a full marty right now and two pa460s both in VBSS's nearfield. I'm trying to figure out what the end game is.

If the um18 is going to sound good in a horn at the mid-bass frequencies, I may not need to keep the VBSS's. I could possibly replace those 3 subs with 2 submaximus subs. I'd just need to buy another um18.

If the um-18s sound quality isn't as good in the submaximus as other reasonably priced drivers, I'd like to know before running down this rabbit hole.

The response for the corner load has a huge dip at 70hz, but the VBSS nearfield completely fix that right now. I also saw on a thread that ported doesn't mix well with a horn so not sure if the VBSS will play ok with the submaximus if I build it. I would need the vbss's still to help with multiple sub placement/response unless I replace them with another sub... just got the ok from the wife for 1 submaximus, not sure what she'd have to say about more.


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If you did 2 submaximus v3s instead all of what you have now I promise you wont be disappointed and will be the end game setup. @Jk7.2 has heard many different setups hes built tons of speakers and subs and heard the v3s on numerous occasions hopefully he will chime in as I'm bias because the submaximus are my main subs which I do have with ported in the rear with the cyclops boxes with um 18s. You'll love the sound quality of bass that come out of these things. Now I do have to say I love the bc21s even more in them but your looking at a whole other price bracket there.My room is rather large and I used the 2 V3S with the um 18s in them for quite some time and never was disappointed. I just decided to go nuts and add the other 2 and 21s

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