Hey guys, I just completed my first DIY screen project last night using WA-DW on a 122" frame. For the most part I'm satisfied except I'm getting an annoying glare reflecting back from the projector. It really makes the texture of the DW stand out. Forgive the noobie question but have I done something wrong and if so what can I do to improve this situation. I'd like to fix this before revealing the results to the finance commitee...ur...wife. Thanks
Glare on WA 122" screen
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Part of your problem may be the positioning of the Projector as relates to where you view from. If the viewing angle to the screen matches the incoming angle of the projected light from the Bulb, the very slight gloss on WA-DW wwill pick up the glare from the center of the Bulb.
The other part of the problem is the WA-DW's surface itself. If that is the over riding issue and placement of the PJ / Screen / Seating cannot be adjusted, then you'll need to coat that surface with something like Sherwin-Williams Duration Satin Extra White. That paint is a very close approximation to the 1.3 gain Stewert Screens Studio Tek 130. It will ace out the WA-DW surface, so your net gain will be you'll get an even better image under any/all circumstances.
The improvement would be well worth the effort, and additional $40.00 or so for the paint and a good 3/8" Nap Roller
The other part of the problem is the WA-DW's surface itself. If that is the over riding issue and placement of the PJ / Screen / Seating cannot be adjusted, then you'll need to coat that surface with something like Sherwin-Williams Duration Satin Extra White. That paint is a very close approximation to the 1.3 gain Stewert Screens Studio Tek 130. It will ace out the WA-DW surface, so your net gain will be you'll get an even better image under any/all circumstances.
The improvement would be well worth the effort, and additional $40.00 or so for the paint and a good 3/8" Nap Roller
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Cool Beans. And BTW....welcome to the DIY Screen Forum !
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If you can spray the WA-DW, you'll almost for certain get the best finish with the least amount of effort. You still should roll & sand the first coat though so you can mitigate the wa-DWs existing texture, slight though it might be.
If you roll "only", apply one normal thickness coat, then lightly sand and then apply the second coat using a 9" Foam Roller designed for "Smooth Surfaces"
Either way the WA-DW texture should effectively disappear.
Cool Beans. And BTW....welcome to the DIY Screen Forum !
If you can spray the WA-DW, you'll almost for certain get the best finish with the least amount of effort. You still should roll & sand the first coat though so you can mitigate the wa-DWs existing texture, slight though it might be.
If you roll "only", apply one normal thickness coat, then lightly sand and then apply the second coat using a 9" Foam Roller designed for "Smooth Surfaces"
Either way the WA-DW texture should effectively disappear.
How is the Sherwin-Williams Duration Satin Extra White compared to the other mixes for a sintra screen? I'm only about 92" diagonal but I am noticing the sintra texture and a noticeable glare in the center of the screen also.
I see Projectorcentral likes Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White even better. Maybe I'll try it.
I see Projectorcentral likes Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White even better. Maybe I'll try it.
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It is an excellent choice to make if you originally went with the WA-DW because you felt a "White" surface was best. Applied by spraying will effectively eliminate most all chance that the Satin finish will have any sheen to worry about.
If instead you went with WA-DW simply because it was supposedly a great "Hang & Shoot" solution, then EVERY other advanced Mix will make the WA material perform much 'Mo Bedder.
Relate your PJ / Throw / Lighting conditions / Room colors, and I can tell you exactly what would be best.
You have to decide as to if you want to accept and follow that recommendation.
It is an excellent choice to make if you originally went with the WA-DW because you felt a "White" surface was best. Applied by spraying will effectively eliminate most all chance that the Satin finish will have any sheen to worry about.
If instead you went with WA-DW simply because it was supposedly a great "Hang & Shoot" solution, then EVERY other advanced Mix will make the WA material perform much 'Mo Bedder.
Relate your PJ / Throw / Lighting conditions / Room colors, and I can tell you exactly what would be best.
You have to decide as to if you want to accept and follow that recommendation.
I have the Mits HC4000, throw is 12 feet, one window with blinds 5'x5' which I could cover with velvet, medium brown walls, white ceiling, room is 13'x10'.
Let me know what you think would be the best mix for me. What is WA-DW? Oh, Wilson Art, Designer White Laminate!
I've got Sintra.
Let me know what you think would be the best mix for me. What is WA-DW? Oh, Wilson Art, Designer White Laminate!
I've got Sintra.
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With the white ceiling a strongly suggest you consider upping your game and going with a gray tint to the Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White...which BTW is the same paint I already suggested as if you asked for it as I listed it that is what they would hand you. But ask for a "Base" if your mixing in any colored Tint.
ASK for the color SW-7064 Passive Gray
ASK for the color SW-7064 Passive Gray
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You can roll this paint on...but it's generally accepted that spraying is far better.
Get the best quality Purdy Foam Roller Cover in the 9" size, rated for Smooth/Ultra Smooth surfaces. Use a Roller bearing Type Roller to avoid having the consistancy of the paint drag down on the smoothness of the "roller action" Work the wet edge, but only just enough to knock down the ridge the edge of the inital layer of applied paint usially creates.
Over working the painted surface is the singular most common mistake people make.
But if youstill get roller marks....no bitchin'....OK?
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You can roll this paint on...but it's generally accepted that spraying is far better.
Get the best quality Purdy Foam Roller Cover in the 9" size, rated for Smooth/Ultra Smooth surfaces. Use a Roller bearing Type Roller to avoid having the consistancy of the paint drag down on the smoothness of the "roller action" Work the wet edge, but only just enough to knock down the ridge the edge of the inital layer of applied paint usially creates.
Over working the painted surface is the singular most common mistake people make.
But if youstill get roller marks....no bitchin'....OK?
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183 Posts
I finally set up my matte white Formica (4 by 8 foot.) I had left it rolled for a few months and it was a bear to work with!
At my stupid-close "IMAX" seat, like 7 feet or so, I had some hot-spotting/glare in the center as well as a "silk screen effect" from the little highlights created by the texture (it's like a stationary grain over the image, but takes on a shimmery look if you move your head.) Backing off a little to 10 feet or so diffuses it a lot, to the point where it's no longer problematic for me at this time. This time next week, who knows!
It's much brighter than the $100 vinyl screen bundled with the purchase. Understandable, as the vinyl is transmissive enough to be sort of a (bad) rear-projection candidate! I hung black velvet behind it to kill return/scatter from kicking my black levels up. The laminate is very nearly opaque, with much more light bouncing back to the viewer.
I buffed a sample chip of the matte white with a green Scotchbrite pad and it killed the glare and leveled the mild texture a bit. Just tilting around in front of the untreated screen shows it to have much less glare. I don't know how uniform a job I could do on a 4 x 8 though!
I'll probably try shooting one of the paints at some point, but for now I wanted to play with a basic stock-material install.
At my stupid-close "IMAX" seat, like 7 feet or so, I had some hot-spotting/glare in the center as well as a "silk screen effect" from the little highlights created by the texture (it's like a stationary grain over the image, but takes on a shimmery look if you move your head.) Backing off a little to 10 feet or so diffuses it a lot, to the point where it's no longer problematic for me at this time. This time next week, who knows!
It's much brighter than the $100 vinyl screen bundled with the purchase. Understandable, as the vinyl is transmissive enough to be sort of a (bad) rear-projection candidate! I hung black velvet behind it to kill return/scatter from kicking my black levels up. The laminate is very nearly opaque, with much more light bouncing back to the viewer.
I buffed a sample chip of the matte white with a green Scotchbrite pad and it killed the glare and leveled the mild texture a bit. Just tilting around in front of the untreated screen shows it to have much less glare. I don't know how uniform a job I could do on a 4 x 8 though!
I'll probably try shooting one of the paints at some point, but for now I wanted to play with a basic stock-material install.
Hey MMan, I finnally got around to painting the WA-DW screen with the Duration Extra White and wow what a difference! Thank you so much for the suggestion. The colors are popping and no annoying glare. Of course I spent hours trying to get the settings on the Acer to where I like it. The presets suck.
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Can you elaborate on exactly what Roller you used, as to if you thinned the paint at all, and what technique you employed?
It would constitute valuable info for future WA-DW upgraders.
Can you elaborate on exactly what Roller you used, as to if you thinned the paint at all, and what technique you employed?
It would constitute valuable info for future WA-DW upgraders.
I used a 3/8" nap roller and rolled it on. I didn't thin it though. I also forgot to mention that I laid that down over a coat of flat primer. We watched X-Men First Class tonight on Blu-ray and my wife and her friend were blown away. Happy wife-Happy life!
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