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Discussion Starter #1
I need help going all in....:D


Open to any ideas/suggestions.


I want to do a max effort SI HT-18 v2 build for home theater going as low as possible/needed.


Every things on the table here, not worried about size...material usage etc etc etc.


I want to use one 18, right now, and get the maximum performance from it.


This end of the pool is way over my head as I have read tons of information, but have no applicational experience.


This is for movies only .
 

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-as low as possible
-not worried about size...material usage etc etc etc.
-get the maximum performance from it.
-this is for movies only.
I'd recommend 15Hz horned,
optimized for that driver.

6db louder than ported between 12-120hz,
and minimal port noise.
 

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Go for the Gusto get a HST18 and then get a beefy amp to drive it or better yet as BTH suggested but make sure it will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you've got no constraints, why are you limiting yourself to that driver?

I have money constraints.......:D


I am open to any driver in that same price range.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Horned seems like an awesome choice. What's the room size?

Always easier to build two at once...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Its final destiation will be in a approx 11x18 dedicated room....right now I am in a 12x12 room....:eek:


I have approx 6x7x3 to work with for room.......I want it to be able to go thru doors in one piece....:)



Ideally , it will fit in the current room, but be tailored for the future room.


I was modeling 20-40 ft3 ported boxes.......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'd recommend 15Hz horned,
optimized for that driver.

6db louder than ported between 12-120hz,
and minimal port noise.

Never considered horn........what kind of horn....:confused:


I have seen a bunch of them...folded,tapped, front loaded......etc etc
 

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Its final destiation will be in a approx 11x18 dedicated room....right now I am in a 12x12 room....:eek:


I have approx 6x7x3 to work with for room.......I want it to be able to go thru doors in one piece....:)



Ideally , it will fit in the current room, but be tailored for the future room.


I was modeling 20-40 ft3 ported boxes.......

Build ported for the current room, and build a Horn Riser:eek: in the new room, adding more drivers at that time. (...it's a sickness).




 

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the deep end of the pool is going to be a giant horn.


with that driver, a front loaded horn is probably your best choice.


something like this will have around 9-10 db more output than a ported, but it will be huge and complicated to build.


response with 600 watts





hornresp parameters.





for modeling be sure to use "large voice coil" option given the inductance of the driver.


this horn is a simple, large rear chamber design, with an exponentially increasing front end modeled as three "straight" sections.


a form factor similar to the Submaximus may work, but I haven't attempted at folding it up.
 

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.02 and a different perspective

If i were to think > "deep end" as a mere observer / bystander /panting wanna-be of the shenanigans that abound in this realm,

I'd take my resources, info, and budget and JUMP!

courtesy of due diligence from @chrapladm ,

His list of drivers for 

MAXV3 drivers

SO, so it looks like these drivers have suitable response shapes for this design:
18UXL Mach 5
18Zv3 Sundown
18SP4 D1 HT FI
18XL1800 FP
18N862 BMS
18 -JBL 2269
21SW152 BC
21DS115 BC
21IPAL BC

added 4-25, per jujuman200 and LTD02

RSS460ho is likely an "in between" driver with respect to the large coil option and not in hornresp. if you aren't familiar with what that is, let me know and i'll try to find some links for you. not sure if the 460ho has been tested/measured in the v3. except for a hair more ripple in the upper bass as compared to the uxl, it looks good to me. thumbs up!


HTH but I'm kinda sure it stirs the pot a bit . . .

p.s: I have perhaps the world's only "spare" LOWARHORN cabinet on the back patio, minus the UXL driver. need a driver with a 16.75 cut out. we can wrangle with the mounting . . .

this is DIY, right?.

we could also do the "horn mouth mod" and make it a vertical smaller footprint grunting butt-kicking name-taking while chewing gum beast.

what could possibly go wrong?

check the SoCal / LAAVA SUB GTG thread postings . google it. good info and smart folks . . .

DEEP END?
 

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Lots of people lots of ideas!! Personally my opinion for the money as in bang for the buck the SI HT18V2 is a great buy. I am sure there are plenty of subs that are better and all that goes with it but if you go by the money and nothing else it would seem the choices are very few if any considering what you get with the HT18's. Its just my opinion just going by your comment on funding. :):)
 
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Discussion Starter #13
OK, maybe the pool is deeper than I thought......:eek:



Not sure I want try backflips off the high dive for my first attempt.......;)



I have been entertaining ideas for the riser in the new room and I am now sold on a horn riser.........the risers approx size will be about 10 foot wide by 7 foot long and I could squeeze approx 20 ish inches tall.



I think it makes sense to build a ported box that can be put behind the screen wall later for now and save the triple gainer for my second act........:)


Apparently I do have limits and constraints on this one.


I hate when common sense and logic derails what should be by nature over the top as possible.....:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the deep end of the pool is going to be a giant horn.


with that driver, a front loaded horn is probably your best choice.


something like this will have around 9-10 db more output than a ported, but it will be huge and complicated to build.


response with 600 watts





hornresp parameters.





for modeling be sure to use "large voice coil" option given the inductance of the driver.


this horn is a simple, large rear chamber design, with an exponentially increasing front end modeled as three "straight" sections.


a form factor similar to the Submaximus may work, but I haven't attempted at folding it up.

Thanks !


Do you think this design could be made into a 10x7x 20 inch tall riser, or would it call for a new plan ?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
.02 and a different perspective

If i were to think > "deep end" as a mere observer / bystander /panting wanna-be of the shenanigans that abound in this realm,

I'd take my resources, info, and budget and JUMP!

courtesy of due diligence from @chrapladm ,

His list of drivers for

MAXV3 drivers

SO, so it looks like these drivers have suitable response shapes for this design:
18UXL Mach 5
18Zv3 Sundown
18SP4 D1 HT FI
18XL1800 FP
18N862 BMS
18 -JBL 2269
21SW152 BC
21DS115 BC
21IPAL BC

added 4-25, per jujuman200 and LTD02

RSS460ho is likely an "in between" driver with respect to the large coil option and not in hornresp. if you aren't familiar with what that is, let me know and i'll try to find some links for you. not sure if the 460ho has been tested/measured in the v3. except for a hair more ripple in the upper bass as compared to the uxl, it looks good to me. thumbs up!


HTH but I'm kinda sure it stirs the pot a bit . . .

p.s: I have perhaps the world's only "spare" LOWARHORN cabinet on the back patio, minus the UXL driver. need a driver with a 16.75 cut out. we can wrangle with the mounting . . .

this is DIY, right?.

we could also do the "horn mouth mod" and make it a vertical smaller footprint grunting butt-kicking name-taking while chewing gum beast.

what could possibly go wrong?

check the SoCal / LAAVA SUB GTG thread postings . google it. good info and smart folks . . .

DEEP END?
O I am soo kicking myself in the rear for not just closing down the store and going to the socal meet.....super dissappointed I did not make it.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Lots of people lots of ideas!! Personally my opinion for the money as in bang for the buck the SI HT18V2 is a great buy. I am sure there are plenty of subs that are better and all that goes with it but if you go by the money and nothing else it would seem the choices are very few if any considering what you get with the HT18's. Its just my opinion just going by your comment on funding. :):)
That was my thoughts as well, surely I can use a big cheap driver and get some decent performance.


Considering I have 4, BIC 12 inch subs right now, it has to be a huge step up from those....:)


I think databass listed them as a max 109db output,the bic sub, and they are all done by 25hz and I want to go low as this is a 98% movies thing.

I can sell one of the bic subs and pay for the driver and part of the wood, my brother just donated a huge 60 pound 1000 watt amp, that is what spured this project to life.
 

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There are lots of choices for subs probably even more choices on sub box designs. If you go to this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html

and read the first page you will 4-5 good ideas on boxes to build how low they will go and the dimensions to build each one. There is a lot of info that if your new to this it will really help out.:)
 
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Do you think this design could be made into a 10x7x 20 inch tall riser, or would it call for a new plan ?
You could fit two LHorns in that space and have room for a large ported sub in there too.
Or possibly 4 LHorns if you were to compromise a bit on the smoothness above 35hz.
In either case you'd want to apply custom folds and not just use the existing cutsheet.

If you look at my HzHorn build I pretty much took the GHorn, refolded it vertically, simplified it (all straight cuts, and only a few etc), and shrunk some of the dimensions.

In your case, you have enough width and length to possibly avoid the height restriction issues I had.

20inches should be enough if you keep the 180 turns to only 2, instead of the 3 1/2 I had to use.


 

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translating from hornresp...

the target for the rear chamber was 600 liters. this design comes in around 470. that will still work fine.

each horn section is color coded. "S2" is the cross sectional area in front of the driver, 750cm^2 in the hornresp model. with the horn having a width of 2.5 feet, which is 76.2cm, that means the spacing in front of the driver should be 750 divided by 76.2 or 9.8cm, which is roughly 0.32 feet and is color coded as red.

the path length to the next "section" is 200 cm and is indicated by the red line.

at that point the cross sectional width from the hornresp model is 1500cm^2, so again 1500 / 76.2 = 19.7cm spacing at that point, which is 0.65 feet and is indicated by the green circle, etc.




turns into something like this as viewed from the inside of the cab (which in this case would be 2.5 feet wide x 7.5 feet tall x 4 feet deep). the lines are not exact, just trying to show roughly (for you and anyone else kind of following along) how the hornresp numbers turn into a horn path.

so in some sense it is kind of complicated, but not really once you get a hang of how it works.




and nine months later, this pops out:



the now "world famous generic man" is 6 feet tall for scale.

of course, if you build it, feel free to name it.

the back-of-the-envelope-fold-plan seems to be reasonably close to the hornresp plan to make the design work.

if having the mouth of the horn fire out the end of the cabinet would be preferable, that would be simple enough change and wouldn't impact performance. that might make the horn a little more "practical", though "practical is a word that has questionable value in this context.
:)

the bracing in the mouth of the horn is whatever you think will look cool. i just put a # style in there. the entire horn would require substantial bracing and would weigh a ton, but I'm not sure that you can do any better for getting the most out of your choice of driver. :)
 

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^

what's the recommended driver?

has anyone built one yet?
 
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