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Yeah but there is the dispersion characteristics of the other drivers.

I do think horizontal and vertical plots would be useful but GE does not publish them as far as I know as a dealer.

Contact your dealer and they can conference call in their rep and discuss a solution.

Putting the speaker horizontal will require wall framing changes. If a load bearing wall then you will need to support the wall and header off correctly.
 

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Yeah but there is the dispersion characteristics of the other drivers.

I do think horizontal and vertical plots would be useful but GE does not publish them as far as I know as a dealer.

Contact your dealer and they can conference call in their rep and discuss a solution.

Putting the speaker horizontal will require wall framing changes. If a load bearing wall then you will need to support the wall and header off correctly.
Thanks, I really don't want to mess with the studs so I will look into moving the screen down.

Absolutely vertical. Sandy
Thanks Sandy, that's what I thought would be the best.
 

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Hi there .. moving to a new home , will be ready by April/May time period. New living room is 9 foot ceilings , approx 21 x 24 Eventually will upgrade From my old excellent BP7002 , CLR 2500 to Triton.One and SuperCenter XXL. (Using DefTech Trinity sub and Yamaha CXA5200 , Infinity rear speaks, Oppo 205) Keeping my trusty Parasound Halo A52. Has plenty of power conservative rating 125 x 5. Never had any issues running the def techs. Will it still be enough for the Triton.One and SuperCenter XXL ? I would imagine should be no issue even if they dip a bit into 4 ohms. But just curious as would like to continue using this amp and still hopefully can get really good levels! . Any advice would be appreciated ... thank you :)
 

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Going from 125 to 250 would give you 3dB headroom. That should yield a noticeable difference in dynamics depending on your volume level and seating distance from the LCRs.

Parasound is nice but tend to run hot. They can also be noisy when using high efficiency speakers but I don’t think the T1r is in that area.
 

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Hi there .. moving to a new home , will be ready by April/May time period. New living room is 9 foot ceilings , approx 21 x 24 Eventually will upgrade From my old excellent BP7002 , CLR 2500 to Triton.One and SuperCenter XXL. (Using DefTech Trinity sub and Yamaha CXA5200 , Infinity rear speaks, Oppo 205) Keeping my trusty Parasound Halo A52. Has plenty of power conservative rating 125 x 5. Never had any issues running the def techs. Will it still be enough for the Triton.One and SuperCenter XXL ? I would imagine should be no issue even if they dip a bit into 4 ohms. But just curious as would like to continue using this amp and still hopefully can get really good levels! . Any advice would be appreciated ... thank you :)
I ran a Parasound HINT for a while with my Triton Ones. Provided more than enough clean power, so you should be just fine. FYI that you're right in that the GE Triton Ones are actually 4 ohm nominal speakers. I reached out to GE tech support to confirm and run my mac amp at the 4 ohm load.
 
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my A52 is about 170 w per channel when running just 2 channel so looks like it should run the Triton.One Ref. Good to hear the HINT runs it no prob so that is good news :)
 

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Not really sure where to post this. I'm connecting the LFE cables to my Tritons and to my Denon AVR. . The issue I'm having is, I've tried two different subwoofer cables , SVS and Blue Jean LC-1 sub woofer cables and they just fall off the GE Triton LFE input really easy. Now I can take a plain old monster RCA interconnect cable and it clamps securely around the Triton LFE input. I find this rather odd. Also , does it really matter if a Sub woofer " labeled" cables is used vs a RCA cable ?
 

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It depends on the manufacturer. Some subwoofer cables use twisted pair which serves to eliminate hum. Monster, Audioquest and many others use this configuration. In addition some cables use a floating shield which further reduces noise. By contrast the Blue Jeans subwoofer cable is actually a coax video cable with video connectors, not an audio cable. Ironically enough, you can get a Monster subwoofer cable that is specifically engineered for subwoofers and uses premium materials for half the price of a Blue Jeans cable.
 

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It depends on the manufacturer. Some subwoofer cables use twisted pair which serves to eliminate hum. Monster, Audioquest and many others use this configuration. In addition some cables use a floating shield which further reduces noise. By contrast the Blue Jeans subwoofer cable is actually a coax video cable with video connectors, not an audio cable. Ironically enough, you can get a Monster subwoofer cable that is specifically engineered for subwoofers and uses premium materials for half the price of a Blue Jeans cable.
I use bluejeanscable subwoofer cables with no issues. From their website:

"In some ways, the subwoofer cable interconnect is the least demanding application in home theater. While HD video demands cables able to carry high-bandwidth signals, at tight impedance tolerances, the subwoofer cable has the relatively easy job of carrying a very low-frequency, very low-bandwidth signal. But a subwoofer cable has a critical job to do, and needs to do it well: keep out hum. Hum can come from ground loops (cable won't help you if that's the case, but see our isolation transformer below) or, often, from EMI (electro-magnetic interference). High-energy, low-frequency noise, like the 60-cycle hum from nearby power cords, fluorescent lights, and other miscellaneous sources, is the hardest type of interference to shield against, and the best defense here is a dense and highly-conductive braid shield. Our recommended subwoofer interconnect cables have not one, but two, dense braid shields, and in our testing we've found this to be the best shield configuration, outperforming conventional single-braid, braid-and-foil, and unbalanced twisted-pair cables when it comes to hum rejection.

Our recommended subwoofer cable is our own proprietary design, the LC-1 low-capacitance audio cable. It has an extremely heavy double-braid shield layer for the best possible rejection of induced low-frequency hum, and extremely low capacitance for the flattest possible frequency response. It is thick -- about .305 inch in diameter -- but is more flexible than comparably-sized cables, and is therefore easy to route around corners and obstacles. Unlike most analog audio cables on the market, too, LC-1 is UL-listed and bears a CM rating under the National Electrical Code, so is suitable for in-wall installation in both residential and commercial environments. (CM is a superior rating to the more often-seen CL-2 and CL-3 ratings)."
 

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I use bluejeanscable subwoofer cables with no issues. From their website:

"In some ways, the subwoofer cable interconnect is the least demanding application in home theater. While HD video demands cables able to carry high-bandwidth signals, at tight impedance tolerances, the subwoofer cable has the relatively easy job of carrying a very low-frequency, very low-bandwidth signal. But a subwoofer cable has a critical job to do, and needs to do it well: keep out hum. Hum can come from ground loops (cable won't help you if that's the case, but see our isolation transformer below) or, often, from EMI (electro-magnetic interference). High-energy, low-frequency noise, like the 60-cycle hum from nearby power cords, fluorescent lights, and other miscellaneous sources, is the hardest type of interference to shield against, and the best defense here is a dense and highly-conductive braid shield. Our recommended subwoofer interconnect cables have not one, but two, dense braid shields, and in our testing we've found this to be the best shield configuration, outperforming conventional single-braid, braid-and-foil, and unbalanced twisted-pair cables when it comes to hum rejection.

Our recommended subwoofer cable is our own proprietary design, the LC-1 low-capacitance audio cable. It has an extremely heavy double-braid shield layer for the best possible rejection of induced low-frequency hum, and extremely low capacitance for the flattest possible frequency response. It is thick -- about .305 inch in diameter -- but is more flexible than comparably-sized cables, and is therefore easy to route around corners and obstacles. Unlike most analog audio cables on the market, too, LC-1 is UL-listed and bears a CM rating under the National Electrical Code, so is suitable for in-wall installation in both residential and commercial environments. (CM is a superior rating to the more often-seen CL-2 and CL-3 ratings)."
Like I noted, I can use the Blue Jean subwoofer cable without issues on my external sub, but on the GE Triton2 they just fall out of the LFE input, no crimping force at all. But a cheapo cable works fine.
 

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I use bluejeanscable subwoofer cables with no issues...
The LC-1 may be made to a custom spec for BJ but it's just a slight modification of a normal video cable. The connectors are knockoffs of Canare video connectors. All of the other subwoofer cables for sale by BJC are standard video cable assemblies using 75 ohm Belden or Canare video cable and 75 ohm Canare connectors. What advantage is there for them in using video cable for an analog audio signal? Certainly there is no sonic advantage. The reason is lower cost, in materials and especially labor. It is far easier to crimp a video connector than it is to hand solder an audio RCA connector. But the reality is, twisted pair is far superior for analog audio, and with a detached or detachable shield, will eliminate the hum that BJC wants to sell you an expensive transformer to get rid of (which will also degrade the audio signal even further.) Ironically it appears BJ sells their products primarily to those that eschew quality audio cables because they are snake oil or some such argument, then these same shrewd consumers turn around and pay a huge premium for a generic cable assembly that they could have bought from other cable assemblers for 1/3 to 1/2 the price of what BJ charges.
 

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The LC-1 may be made to a custom spec for BJ but it's just a slight modification of a normal video cable. The connectors are knockoffs of Canare video connectors. All of the other subwoofer cables for sale by BJC are standard video cable assemblies using 75 ohm Belden or Canare video cable and 75 ohm Canare connectors. What advantage is there for them in using video cable for an analog audio signal? Certainly there is no sonic advantage. The reason is lower cost, in materials and especially labor. It is far easier to crimp a video connector than it is to hand solder an audio RCA connector. But the reality is, twisted pair is far superior for analog audio, and with a detached or detachable shield, will eliminate the hum that BJC wants to sell you an expensive transformer to get rid of (which will also degrade the audio signal even further.) Ironically it appears BJ sells their products primarily to those that eschew quality audio cables because they are snake oil or some such argument, then these same shrewd consumers turn around and pay a huge premium for a generic cable assembly that they could have bought from other cable assemblers for 1/3 to 1/2 the price of what BJ charges.
Really.
 

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Not really sure where to post this. I'm connecting the LFE cables to my Tritons and to my Denon AVR. . The issue I'm having is, I've tried two different subwoofer cables , SVS and Blue Jean LC-1 sub woofer cables and they just fall off the GE Triton LFE input really easy. Now I can take a plain old monster RCA interconnect cable and it clamps securely around the Triton LFE input. I find this rather odd. Also , does it really matter if a Sub woofer " labeled" cables is used vs a RCA cable ?
You would be better off not running LFE cables to the bass units of the Tritons from your receiver. Allow the built-in crossover to handle the internal crossover region, then cross over the main L&R speakers to an external subwoofer, just as you would any full range speaker. This issue (towers with powered bass modules) has been discussed here, periodically, and the answer is to not treat the bass module as a sub.
 

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You would be better off not running LFE cables to the bass units of the Tritons from your receiver. Allow the built-in crossover to handle the internal crossover region, then cross over the main L&R speakers to an external subwoofer, just as you would any full range speaker. This issue (towers with powered bass modules) has been discussed here, periodically, and the answer is to not treat the bass module as a sub.
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