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That is making an assumption that the person has external subwoofers. Additionally, why would anyone buy full range speakers only to cross them over to external subs? Seems like an odd choice.

If you have Tritons with built in subs and no external subs, the LFE channel should be connected to your Tritons with a subwoofer cable.
Actually, if they do not have a sub, then they should also run the L&R speakers as full range. Either way, if you have external subs, then that is where the crossover should come into play, not between the top and bottom sections of the mains. Lots of folks with issues trying to use the bass modules as subwoofers. Just try it both ways and see what works best. Nothing to lose.
 

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Actually, if they do not have a sub, then they should also run the L&R speakers as full range. Either way, if you have external subs, then that is where the crossover should come into play, not between the top and bottom sections of the mains. Lots of folks with issues trying to use the bass modules as subwoofers. Just try it both ways and see what works best. Nothing to lose.
We agree that Tritons with powered subs can be run as Large (full range) in the AVR. When you run a speaker as Large, there is no crossover. Crossovers are used when you set your speakers to small.

[edited to remove incorrect information]
 

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We agree that Tritons with powered subs can be run as Large (full range) in the AVR. When you run a speaker as Large, there is no crossover. Crossovers are used when you set your speakers to small.

If you don't run LFE cables from your receiver to powered Tritons and you don't have external subs, then your 5.1 is actually 5.0. The ".1" is a separate and distinct channel that requires a separate connection. You have to connect your AVR/pre-pro to a sub either with an RCA or XLR cable or you won't have the .1.
From the Home Theater Review review of the Triton One:

The Hookup
GoldenEar_Triton_One_R_Rear_Panel.JPGUnsurprisingly, the Triton One.R's connectivity remains virtually unchanged from its predecessor. Each cabinet features a pair of speaker-level binding posts, an optional LFE input, a subwoofer level control that works whether you're using the LFE input or relying on the One.R's internal crossovers, and a power connection for delivering juice to the bass section's 1600-Watt DSP amplifier.
i.e. you don't need to hook up the bass modules separately ...
 

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From the Home Theater Review review of the Triton One:

i.e. you don't need to hook up the bass modules separately ...
[Incorrect info removed]

My dad's system consists of Triton 2's for left and right channels, 60c center channel, and MPX in-ceilings for surround, hooked up to a Marantz 6007 AVR. He has subwoofer cables going into each Triton 2 coming out of his receiver's LFE output. Since he does use subwoofer cables, he can run his Triton 2s full range and use a crossover for his center and surround channels sending the bass for those channels to the powered subwoofer sections of his Triton 2s. Additionally, the LFE channel is sent to the Triton 2's powered subs via the subwoofer cables.
 

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That's right, for 2.0 channel music, you don't need LFE. However, if you don't use a subwoofer cable, then you can't crossover any of your other speakers to a subwoofer. Even if you have 5 full range speakers, you can only play 5.0 content unless you use a subwoofer cable. LFE is a separate channel that contains a different signal than LCR and surrounds. LFE content, the .1, cannot be sent over speaker wire. The LFE has to be connected to a subwoofer via your receiver's LFE output.

My dad's system consists of Triton 2's for left and right channels, 60c center channel, and MPX in-ceilings for surround, hooked up to a Marantz 6007 AVR. He has subwoofer cables going into each Triton 2 coming out of his receiver's LFE output. If he didn't use subwoofer cables, he'd have a horrible sounding 5.0 channel system; he wouldn't be able to cross his center and surround channels to a sub because he doesn't have external subs. Since he does use subwoofer cables, he can run his Triton 2s full range and use a crossover for his center and surround channels sending the bass for those channels to the powered subwoofer sections of his Triton 2s. Additionally, the LFE channel is sent to the Triton 2's powered subs.

Do you not understand that you need a subwoofer cable to 1) play LFE content, and 2) if you want to use crossovers for your other non full range speakers?
Pretty sure the LFE channel is re-routed to the mains if the subwoofer is set to no in your AVR or Processor, same thing if the mains are set to large, and your surrounds and center channel are set to small and crossed over. The low passed signal(s) from the small speaker(s) is routed to the mains.
 

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That's right, for 2.0 channel music, you don't need LFE. However, if you don't use a subwoofer cable, then you can't crossover any of your other speakers to a subwoofer. Even if you have 5 full range speakers, you can only play 5.0 content unless you use a subwoofer cable. LFE is a separate channel that contains a different signal than LCR and surrounds. LFE content, the .1, cannot be sent over speaker wire. The LFE has to be connected to a subwoofer via your receiver's LFE output.

My dad's system consists of Triton 2's for left and right channels, 60c center channel, and MPX in-ceilings for surround, hooked up to a Marantz 6007 AVR. He has subwoofer cables going into each Triton 2 coming out of his receiver's LFE output. If he didn't use subwoofer cables, he'd have a horrible sounding 5.0 channel system; he wouldn't be able to cross his center and surround channels to a sub because he doesn't have external subs. Since he does use subwoofer cables, he can run his Triton 2s full range and use a crossover for his center and surround channels sending the bass for those channels to the powered subwoofer sections of his Triton 2s. Additionally, the LFE channel is sent to the Triton 2's powered subs.

Do you not understand that you need a subwoofer cable to 1) play LFE content, and 2) if you want to use crossovers for your other non full range speakers?
This is not correct. If you set the processor to Large Left and Right and No Sub, it will reroute the LFE signal into the Left and Right channels and go down the speaker wire to the speakers. The only issue, as we found, is that for various reasons many, if not most processors somewhat attenuate the .1 signal. Also you have no control of the level of the .1 channel which is often desirable. This is the advantage of running a separate LFE connection and setting the speakers for Large Left and Right and Sub Yes. If you go up on the GET website to Sandy's Set Up Tips there is a complete explanation. Thanks, Sandy
 

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This is not correct. If you set the processor to Large Left and Right and No Sub, it will reroute the LFE signal into the Left and Right channels and go down the speaker wire to the speakers. The only issue, as we found, is that for various reasons many, if not most processors somewhat attenuate the .1 signal. Also you have no control of the level of the .1 channel which is often desirable. This is the advantage of running a separate LFE connection and setting the speakers for Large Left and Right and Sub Yes. If you go up on the GET website to Sandy's Set Up Tips there is a complete explanation. Thanks, Sandy
From the horse's mouth ..
 

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This is not correct. If you set the processor to Large Left and Right and No Sub, it will reroute the LFE signal into the Left and Right channels and go down the speaker wire to the speakers. The only issue, as we found, is that for various reasons many, if not most processors somewhat attenuate the .1 signal. Also you have no control of the level of the .1 channel which is often desirable. This is the advantage of running a separate LFE connection and setting the speakers for Large Left and Right and Sub Yes. If you go up on the GET website to Sandy's Set Up Tips there is a complete explanation. Thanks, Sandy
Thanks for the clarification. I didn't realize processors do that. I'll check out the set up tips (probably should have done that for my dad when he got his GoldenEar system 8 years ago)*!

I'm curious though, if you don't use subwoofer cables, does the AVR amplify the signal sent to the subwoofer(s)?

* @goldenear tech Interestingly, my dad bought his GoldenEar system from Bruce Clark, who I later learned knows Sandy. I bought my Definitive Technology 5.1 system from him in '09.
 

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Thanks for the clarification. I didn't realize processors do that. I'll check out the set up tips (probably should have done that for my dad when he got his GoldenEar system 8 years ago)*!

I'm curious though, if you don't use subwoofer cables, does the AVR amplify the signal sent to the subwoofer(s)?

* @goldenear tech Interestingly, my dad bought his GoldenEar system from Bruce Clark, who I later learned knows Sandy. I bought my Definitive Technology 5.1 system from him in '09.
The AVR does amplify the the signal but since it does not see a speaker load at those frequencies it does not deliver them with high current, so I believe high voltage but not wattage. The circuitry in the speakers takes the signal and feeds it to the built in sub amp.
 

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The reason for crossing over and using the LFE inputs + subs is to EQ and take advantage of (essentially) multiple subs. It results in a much flatter bass response given you can better address room modes. Here are my own measurements when running the Triton 1's full range vs. using the LFE and adding an SVS SB16 Ultra (i.e., effectively three subwoofers). The audible improvement is astounding.

Edit: Pay no mind to the increased output between both measurements. I increased the volume between measurements (you can see that I was doing a lot of measuring over a couple of days). The actual level of bass output between both configurations is identical...one just happens to be much flatter at the MLP.

3109000
 

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The reason for crossing over and using the LFE inputs + subs is to EQ and take advantage of (essentially) multiple subs. It results in a much flatter bass response given you can better address room modes. Here are my own measurements when running the Triton 1's full range vs. using the LFE and adding an SVS SB16 Ultra (i.e., effectively three subwoofers). The audible improvement is astounding.

Edit: Pay no mind to the increased output between both measurements. I increased the volume between measurements (you can see that I was doing a lot of measuring over a couple of days). The actual level of bass output between both configurations is identical...one just happens to be much flatter at the MLP.
Does that mean the T1s can't come close to hitting 20hz on their own? Looks like a pretty steep high-pass filter around 28hz.

Can you explain why you can EQ one way and not the other?
 

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Does that mean the T1s can't come close to hitting 20hz on their own? Looks like a pretty steep high-pass filter around 28hz.

Can you explain why you can EQ one way and not the other?
I don't think a high-pass filter is to blame for the rolloff, but you can see that the Triton One's -3db point (in my room) is actually around the 24Hz mark. Pretty impressive for a tower, but obviously nowhere near the 16Hz that the SVS can hit. I believe the Triton Reference is flat down to 20Hz.

You can certainly EQ the T1's on their own. However, all you're mostly able to do is remove the peaks. While you can add a few db to any nulls, you're ultimately not going to overcome a null due to room modes (which you can see between 30-38 Hz and 52-63 Hz range). Unfortunately, that's just physics. I add the SVS sub (which is in the rear of my room) to cancel these nulls, and EQ'ing the "three subs" together, which is how I'm able to achieve such a flat response.

Now, I NEVER imagined I would run my T1's this way when I bought them. I listened to a ton of Sandy's interviews (over and over and over) and always intended to run them full range (for many of the benefits that Sandy explains). However, my curiosity got the better of me when my Marantz AVR using Audyssey EQ actually created phase issues with the Tritons (long story and a bit hard to explain), so I somewhat stumbled upon this setup. I've AB'd T1's Full Range vs. LFE + SVS (for 2 channel music) several occasions and simply prefer the response I achieve with the latter configuration.

There are a few downsides. One of which is that finding a 2-channel preamp with bass management features is tough (hence my NAD C 658). McIntosh, etc. don't employ this functionality, so it limits you unless you are to run an electronic crossover. There are some ways around it, such as McIntosh's MA1200 in which you can dial back the 25 and 50 Hz tone knobs, which will cut bass to the mains while allowing you to then employ subs to cover that frequency range. While the overall bass output would be reduced to the subs, as well, these SVS SB16's actually run pretty hot (e.g., mine is set to -12db), so it's not an issue. Perhaps, TMI, but I've been thinking about this a lot lately...
 
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That is making an assumption that the person has external subwoofers. Additionally, why would anyone buy full range speakers only to cross them over to external subs? Seems like an odd choice.

If you have Tritons with built in subs and no external subs, the LFE channel should be connected to your Tritons with a subwoofer cable.
I do not have external sub's in this set up.
 

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Would the Triton One.Rs be a good upgrade if I am coming from Triton Fives and 2 external 15 inch subwoofers? I'm looking to use it as part of an upcoming 13 channel setup with 9 ear-level speakers and 4 ceiling speakers as well as a stereo system for 2-channel music. I'm thinking of setting up the One Rs as "small" and cross over at 80hz, and then use 2 y-splitters to feed both external subs and the 2 subwoofer sections in the One Rs. Any thoughts?
 

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Would the Triton One.Rs be a good upgrade if I am coming from Triton Fives and 2 external 15 inch subwoofers? I'm looking to use it as part of an upcoming 13 channel setup with 9 ear-level speakers and 4 ceiling speakers as well as a stereo system for 2-channel music. I'm thinking of setting up the One Rs as "small" and cross over at 80hz, and then use 2 y-splitters to feed both external subs and the 2 subwoofer sections in the One Rs. Any thoughts?
You're basically proposing what I'm already doing w/ my regular Ones, but you'd have a second standalone subwoofer (vs. my single SB16). The configuration you speak of will certainly yield a very flat bass response provided you EQ (i.e., it'll sound awesome). While I'm super happy with my setup, it's certainly bastardized from the original intent of the Tritons (full range). If I had a redo, I'd research passive towers (or even bookshelves, such as the B&W 805 D3) since I found to prefer a multiple sub setup vs. running full range. Of course, either route you go is going to be awesome - may be worth demoing a couple of options just to see if you prefer the 1.Rs over similarly priced passive alternatives (i.e., pay attention to the treble and mids). Many in this group run their 2-channel system full range, so in that setup, it's really hard to beat GE at their price point.
 

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Would the Triton One.Rs be a good upgrade if I am coming from Triton Fives and 2 external 15 inch subwoofers? I'm looking to use it as part of an upcoming 13 channel setup with 9 ear-level speakers and 4 ceiling speakers as well as a stereo system for 2-channel music. I'm thinking of setting up the One Rs as "small" and cross over at 80hz, and then use 2 y-splitters to feed both external subs and the 2 subwoofer sections in the One Rs. Any thoughts?
Oh, and if you go this route, I would strongly recommend a MiniDSP unless you plan to use an AVR or preamp with bass management / EQ / room correction.
 

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Oh, and if you go this route, I would strongly recommend a MiniDSP unless you plan to use an AVR or preamp with bass management / EQ / room correction.
Yeah, the way I kind of look at the Triton powered speakers is this: Two items within the same tower. The subwoofer and the speaker that handles the frequencies above the crossover. At least it's the way I look at it if someone is setting it up the way you are and the way I'm considering it. Of course, it is a full range speaker in it's own right too. For me, "four" subwoofers would provide plenty of bass in quantity and evenness throughout my room. I just need to make sure that if I spend the $6K+, it'll be worth my money as opposed to keeping my Trion 5s.

I'll be hooking everything up to the Anthem AVM 70. Or at least it's looking like the definite frontrunner for my soon-to-be prepro. That thing looks awesome. It's got 2 independent subwoofer outputs that I'll each y-split.
 

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Forgot to ask, what are you crossing your Triton Ones at?
80 Hz

However, you may want to run a measurement to see where you want to apply correction. Ideally, I like to cross over at the lowest frequency I can, but you can see in my graph above that I had a null up to ~65 Hz in which the multi subs and a bit of EQ largely corrected it, hence why I chose 80 Hz (say, vs. 60 Hz).
 

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Does anyone know of any good way to mount the Aon3s onto the ceiling as atmos speakers? Special ceiling mounting gear or brackets? I don't want to cut holes in my wall and would prefer bookshelf speakers instead.
 
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