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After applying some of the settings mentioned above, I found the picture to look more like a dlp, more natural colors. Nothing wrong with that, i just like the brighter color of the lcd. It still looked like a 50" lcd, don't get me wrong. I'm referring to the color, I guess. Once I get mine down, i 'll throw them up here. Cable / dvr come next week.
 

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Didn't want this to get lost in a 121 page thread:


OK,


Here are the settings for my 42" A10.


I am just an "average guy" who wants to watch TV and am not any kind of "expert" in any sense of the word when it comes to TV or HDTV or home theater, so I am sure that these settings look awful to some of these folks but they work well for me in my viewing environment.


These settings were not determined with any calibration disk or advanced tools, just my eyeballs and the old "Color Bars" test pattern that appears on one of my Cable channels when no show is being broadcast.


The goal of these settings was to provide a good compromise between day and night television viewing arrangments. My TV is located in the corner of a living room that has windows and is attached to a kitchen with patio slider doors. All of them have ordinary blinds but no special room-darkening shades. For nighttime viewing, an indirect light lamp is used for illumination. It is possible to read books and newspapers in the same room at night, so this is not "low light" conditions.


So I am NOT looking for some perfect ISF-like calibration that only works well in room with no windows or lighting. Most of these style settings perform poorly in a typical living room, with dim washed out color and brightness.


Basically, I wanted something close to the Sony STANDARD setting, but with better shadow details and less oversaturated colors.


As someone else said here, missing shadow detail can be detected by watching a local news broadcast or a CSPAN broadcast with men in dark suits that usually contain pinstripes or other details. Most of this detail is lost in the VIVID or STANDARD settings. As a Red Sox fan, color oversaturation is obvious from viewing the red part of the uniforms and crowd t-shirts and also the grass color during a baseball broadcast.


Many of these settings are either:

copied from the STANDARD setting

copied from other users' posts here

left alone by me


Anyways, here goes:

CUSTOM


Iris=2

Generally reported as the best iris setting for typical use. I agree.


Picture=85

Need a value between 80 and 90 for STANDARD mode like bright TV image


Brightness=54

For a given iris and picture setting, I needed to bring out the shadow details.

Before doing anything else, I turned OFF the black corrector first.

I tuned in to the "color bars" test image from my cable public access channel. Directly under the RED color bar is a black box that contains 3 vertical black stripes of varying subtle shades of black. I adjusted the brightness number until I could barely see the dividing line between each vertical stripe. This greatly improved my shadow details. According to the color bar calibration instructions, you are supposed to make the "left" stripe blend into the "middle" stripe because the left stripe shade is called "blacker than black" and this shade is not present in normal television broadcasts. Well, THEY LIE. I can see an improvement with shadow details if I adjust it so that I can still barely see the dividing line between all 3 stripes.


Color=39

I was looking to tone down the color oversaturation without making the picture seem "washed out". It appears that a lower value, maybe 36, completely gets rid of the oversaturation even for Red Sox Logos but it makes the picture seem washed out for daytime viewing. 39 seemed to be a good compromise for me. Your preferences may vary.


Hue = 0

I tried playing around with color temps and hues but I could not get the colors to look "right" to me. Maybe I am already conditioned to think that STANDARD hues are "just right", but that's the way that I feel. My best guess is that it is impossible to get the color hues "just right" without making adjustments in the service menu, and I don't want to play around in there.


Color Temp = Neutral

See "Hue" comments


Sharpness=35

Seems like a good compromise to me. I watch analog SD and digital SD and HD. If I only watched HD, I could probably set it to "0" without any problems.


Noise Reduction=OFF

The only reason to turn this ON is if you have REALLY BAD quality analog cable signal, OR if you watch over-the-air analog television with an antenna.


DRC mode=High Density

No comment


DRC Pallet:

Reality=20

Clarity=94

Made a BIG IMPROVEMENT for standard definition channels.


ADVANCED VIDEO


Black Corrector=OFF

You MUST turn this off if you want ANY hope of seeing shadow details.


Advanced Iris=LOW

I did not want to completely disable this function, as it helps in some situations. Low does not bother me and I do not hear the Iris servo motor whirring a lot as far as I can tell.


Gamma=LOW

Why Not?


Clear White=OFF

It didn't make much of a difference either way, so I turned it off.


Live Color=LOW

The only way that I could get STANDARD mode like color hues was to set this value to LOW. Otherwise, the colors had a reddish tint that could not be brought back into my perception of "normal" (IE: STANDARD mode) by making adjustments to HUE and Color Temp. So the easy way out is to set the HUE back to 0 and the Color Temp back to Neutral and then turn Live Color to LOW



In conclusion, I have used these settings for a few weeks now for normal daytime and nighttime (with room light) TV viewing and am satisfied with the results.


However, if anyone has suggestions for improvements, keeping in mind MY lighting conditions, please feel free to offer them.


Thanks, and hope this helps someone.
 

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I will post my settings for each input I'm using on my Sony 42A10 as I've gotten several PMs asking for it. We should probably keep bumping this thread to keep it active for a awhile.



These settings are for low/mid-level lighting for day and night viewing. These settings give a more "flat" look since my lighting conditions do not change very much. I don't like overly contrasted/saturated whites or colors. Fine detail is lost and it causes eye strain which makes viewing the TV less enjoyable.


Viewing distance from my 42A10 is around 7 to 8 feet.


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Update settings for red push fix - 9/6/06


Some confusion has arose out of which settings look best. IMO you should be using these two settings for every input to get the best color rendering from the A10's color decoder:


CH_ITU_MODE1 - 0000


CH_AXIS1 - 0017


*Both settings need to be be changed to the values listed. Read the first post in this thread for instructions on how to fix the red push. Be sure to write down the default values BEFORE making ANY changes in the service menu.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


***Grayscale Tweak***


Update 9/7/06


I'm back to using this tweak.



***BE SURE TO WRITE DOWN YOUR DEFAULT SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES IN THE SERVICE MENU***


The first step is getting into the SM. Follow the same steps that you do for the red push fix:


(step -1) Start with a TV where all needed inputs have already been configured to best custom mode settings

(step 0) If necessary turn off TV and wait for bulb to turn off

(step 1) Press the following 4 key sequence without a pause:

(display) (5) (Volume +) (Power)

(step 2) Wait the normal turn on time for the debug screen to appear

(step 3) Press (jump) twice to get to service data screen


***Grayscale fix starts here***


(step 4) Press (5) four times to get to the D9809PIC item.


(step 5) Press (1) four times to get to the RGAIN setting.


(step 6) Press (6) three times. This will be your new RGAIN value.


***Note that the above setting is for an Iris setting of 1. I've changed my Iris setting to 2 for all inputs and the value above will be different. My RGAIN setting is currently set to 007E.***


(step 7) Press (1) two times to get to the BGAIN setting.


(step 8) Press (6) sixteen times. This will be your new BGAIN value.


(step 9) To save the new values press (mute) (ent) and wait for write to complete.


(step 10) Press (jump) to return to the debug screen


(step 11) From debug screen press (power) to turn the TV off and wait for the bulb to go out


(step 12) Turn the TV back on and change the Color Temp to Warm 2 for every input you're using. You must be using a Custom picture mode to use Warm 2.



These settings are based on Bill's procedure to fix the grayscale. The above method is intended for those that use the Advanced Iris on LOW (Medium and High might need different values). What you're doing is getting the color temp very close to 6500k, which is the reference standard for the most natural color rendering on a display. If for some reason you don't like the look of 6500k, you can switch the color temp to Warm 1 or Neutral for a bluer look. You might find that Neutral looks a lot better now since it's tracking at about 9300k.



FOR YOUR REFERENCE


RGAIN - lower it by 3 clicks from your default setting

GGAIN - leave it at default

BGAIN - lower it by 16 clicks from your default setting


RBIAS - leave it at default

GBIAS - leave it at default

BBIAS - leave it at default


The settings above are based on Bill's (zmn668) settings. A big thanks go out to him for finding this tweak. The grayscale on your A10 may need slightly different settings to get it closer to 6500k. For better accuracy, it is recommended that you use a colorimeter or get your A10 ISF calibrated.


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The settings listed below for my components should be used as a guide to help you get the most out of your A10. Obviously everyone has different tastes and different HT gear. So, simply use my settings as a primer and then adjust further if needed.


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SD analog cable using the A10's RF coax input:


*Recommended for best PQ over the cable box analog tuner

*Calibrated by eye


Iris - 2

Picture - 80

Brightness - 48

Color - 31

Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)

Color Temp - Warm 2

Sharpness - 20

Noise Reduction - Off

DRC Mode - High Density

DRC Palette -

Reality 40

Clarity 40

Black Corrector - Off

Advanced Iris - Low

Gamma - Max

Clear White - Off

Live Color - Off


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


HD and SD digital cable (Motorola 6412 HD DVR cable box w/component out):


*For 6412 Phase II or III units

*Calibrated with INHD tune up and by eye


Iris - 2

Picture - 80

Brightness - 48

Color - 31

Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)

Color Temp - Warm 2

Sharpness - 15

Noise Reduction - Off


DRC Mode - High Density (*For viewing SD channels through the cable box)

DRC Palette -

Reality 40

Clarity 40


Black Corrector - Off

Advanced Iris - Low

Gamma - Max

Clear White - Off

Live Color - Off


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DVD (Oppo OPDV971H w/DVI-HDMI out):


*Calibrated with Digital Video Essentials DVD

*DVD player set to upconvert to 720p


Iris - 2

Picture - 90

Brightness - 51

Color - 31

Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)

Color Temp - Warm 2

Sharpness - 23

Noise Reduction - Off

Black Corrector - Off

Advanced Iris - Low

Gamma - Max

Clear White - Off

Live Color - Off


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


VCR (Hitachi HI-FI VHS 4 head player w/composite out):


*Calibrated by eye


Iris - 2

Picture - 80

Brightness - 48

Color - 31

Hue - G5 (*based on red push fix values above)

Color Temp - Warm 2

Sharpness - 15

Noise Reduction - Low

DRC Mode - High Density

DRC Palette -

Reality 30

Clarity 90

Black Corrector - Off

Advanced Iris - Low

Gamma - Max

Clear White - Off

Live Color - Off
 

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bump diddy bump bump
 

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Nice to see some other people's settings. My settings are pretty much dead-on with Dark Rain's, although his Picture setting is a bit lower (mine's at 85). I need to play around a bit more, but I'm pretty satisfied right now.


For your guy's settings, did you use the "red push" fix that started this thread? I had good luck in the past with Sony TVs eliminating the "red push", but this service menu is a bit more confusing than those in the past. I'll give the fix a try tonight, as it's really the only thing bothering me; hopefully it'll fix the f***ed up greens too. Stuipd color bars
 

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Is there some kind of consensus, which color temperature is best once you changed CH_AXIS1 to 0002? I've been playing around with this, starting with Neutral, but ending up with Warm 2. Is this what others are using as well?


BTW, I noticed that the default setting for CH_AXIS1 was the same for all external inputs (3c), but it is different for the the internal tuner (46).
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zues /forum/post/0


High density leaves interlaced artifacts"line jittering"..Cinemotion seems much smoother..

It only works on film-based content for reverse 3:2 pulldown. It has nothing to do with DRC.
 

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So I changed CH_AXIS1 to 0002 and that elimated the red push completely. It's more accurate now but it still doesn't look right through the green filter on DVE. Has anyone got the settings perfect yet?
 

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Hey guys


I bought a Sony KDF-E50A10 50 inch Tv last week and I heard that the Tv could be tweaked so somone gave me this link to check out. I read all the users posts in tweaking but im still kinda confused im not a video expert and I dont know which one to choose!!!


I have the follwoing devices plugged into my TV


1) HD indoor antenna hookup up with VHF/UHF

2)Direct Tv set top box hooked up with S video

3) Playstation 2/ xbox hooked up with component


If anybody can help me I really appriciate that


Thanks a lot
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kbadone /forum/post/0


Hey guys


I bought a Sony KDF-E50A10 50 inch Tv last week and I heard that the Tv could be tweaked so somone gave me this link to check out. I read all the users posts in tweaking but im still kinda confused im not a video expert and I dont know which one to choose!!!


I have the follwoing devices plugged into my TV


1) HD indoor antenna hookup up with VHF/UHF

2)Direct Tv set top box hooked up with S video

3) Playstation 2/ xbox hooked up with component


If anybody can help me I really appriciate that


Thanks a lot

Probably the best suggestion for fixing up the horrible color decoding is to set the CHAXIS value to 0002. The first post has step-by-step instructions for that; even if you're a n00b (
), it's simple to do (just don't start flipping things around in the service menu). After that, all of the settings posted on here are decent.


It really comes down to personal preference as to how you want the picture to look. A calibration DVD is handy so you have something to go off of, but eyeballing it until you like how it looks works too.


I want to say I watched a few shows last night in HD and played some Xbox, and after re-calibrating with the "red push" fix, things looked perfect to my eyes. Previously the picture just didn't look right, even after semi-calibrating with DVE. I am completely satisifed with the picture now and plan on leaving things as they are.
 

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Is there any danger in changing these values? While they might make the system look better do they place strain on any of the tv components?


I know that messing around in the service menu is not reccomended so I am asking specifically about the tweaks mentioned here. Example: Changing the CHAXIS value to 0002.


If that eliminates Red Push why didn't sony do it from the factory themselves?
 

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I'm no expert, but changing values like these shouldn't have any negative effect on the unit. I'm sure there are options in the service menu that can damage the unit though.


As for why Sony doesn't do it themselves, I'm not sure. I'm guessing it's to make their colors more vivid and such. Every Sony TV I've seen has horrible red push. I'm sure others with more knowledge will chime in at some point.
 

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Aron,


Thankfully I really don't notice the red push. Ignorance is bliss for a change.



Oh and jsut so you know, everytime I see one of your posts, I can't help but think "Alan Parsons Project". LOL
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrdumbos /forum/post/0


Where can I find a clibration DVD. Everyone talks abt THX and one more DVD (Avia or something like that)

THX Optimzer is on the Fantasia 2000 DVD and well as other THX certified discs, like Star Wars, other Disney-Pixar movies. It's a basic test to do some minor tweaking.


Avia & Digital Video Essentials aka DVE seem to be the 2 most popular ones.


Local video stores don't carry them, but if you are with Netflix or even Blockbuster online mailing serivce, you can get them there.


Or you could always purchase them from a store.
 

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Cool setting



am I the only one who likes the "Cool" colour temp setting?


The others give me an over all brownish tint.


Cool...looks crisper and more natural to me


I went to Yankee Stadium and "Calibrated" my eyes to the real thing..then the next day watched a game in HD.. Cool looks more naturall to me... Should I make an immediate appointment with my eye doctor?
 

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Discussion Starter #40

Quote:
Originally Posted by k2koq /forum/post/0

Cool setting



am I the only one who likes the "Cool" colour temp setting?


The others give me an over all brownish tint.


Cool...looks crisper and more natural to me


I went to Yankee Stadium and "Calibrated" my eyes to the real thing..then the next day watched a game in HD.. Cool looks more naturall to me... Should I make an immediate appointment with my eye doctor?

Usually your eyes will adjust to the color temperature of whatever light is present since sunlight has a huge variation from red sunrise to blue sky-lit shadows. What looks right to you will depend partly on what light color your brain expects for your TV picture. There is a standard color temperature for TV's though and I think it is around 6500K which is an average value for direct sunlight. I think the cool setting looks bluer than the 6500K setting on my computer monitor but I could be wrong. Most people would label blue-white light as whiter than white light which is why laundry detergent contains bluing. Bottom line is use whatever color temperature you like best; don't see an eye doctor for that (but every middle aged person should see an eye doctor to check your retina for age related degeneration).
 
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