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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I am thinking at this point I am going to have to go with an LCD PJ because the 16:9 DLPs are just too pricey. Having said that, it means that I will have to go with a gray screen in order to get decent black levels. Black level is a big item for me which is why DLP is really my preference, so if I end up upgrading to DLP in a couple of years, is my gray screen still going to be a good fit?


Any recommendations?
 

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Yes, it should work fine should you make the switch to DLP but make sure you see your projector on the gray screen before you get it. Depending on what projector you have you may find the trade off for deeper blacks a poor one. I know I did.
 

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Even with higher CRs the gray screens can be useful for helping with ambient light or reflections in rooms that aren't black, so it could very well be a good fit later. Most people with things like the Marantz S2 at over 2000:1 CR are using a gray screen, from what I can tell.


Also, a 1280x720 DLP is expensive, but the Mitsubishi LVP-1208 16:9 at 1024x576 and 2500:1 CR is about half the price or less of most HD2 DLPs.


--Darin
 

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I recommend a Hi-Power. Blacks are great because the whites are so good. The brightness of the picture makes every thing look better, and I truly believe that black and white are relative. Very high ambient rejection and no hotspotting. You should see one.
 

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Well, I used to have a High Power that I used with an LT150 and now I have a grey screen I use with an X1. The High Power may improve contrast ratio, but it does adversely affect black level.


Since I am a black level type person, I'm sticking with a grey screen.



Steve
 

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Screens do not increase contrast ratio. A high gain screen boosts greys and blacks to the same degree as whites. Conversely, a low gain screen drops blacks and greys as well as whites by the same amount. The Hi-Power will certainly add punch to most scenes, however, low contrast scenes with mainly blacks and greys may be made more distracting since blacks will be made a brighter grey. The choice of screen really comes down to ensuring that you have sufficient Ft-lamberts for your given room environment and viewing tastes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Darinp - Where have you seen this: Mitsubishi LVP-1208?


I've seen some of the write-ups on here and a link to Mitsubishi Japan (too bad I can't read Japanese and Google couldn't translate very well), but I've never see it advertised for sale.
 

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I built a 16:9, 96" (diag.) screen using gray fabric (Dove Grey, JoAnn Fabrics) stretched on a 1x4 wood frame for my Sony HS10. The images are very good, extremely viewable. Not perfect. The blacks are a very dark grey compared to the black felt cloth border that surrounds the screen. However, I and my family are well satisfied with the results, especially when watching HDTV programs. For the time being, I have decided not to substitute a CC40R filter for the supplied Cinema filter (CC20M?). Because my DIY screen is low gain, the resulting images would probably be too dark.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Uther
So, I am thinking at this point I am going to have to go with an LCD PJ because the 16:9 DLPs are just too pricey. Having said that, it means that I will have to go with a gray screen in order to get decent black levels. Black level is a big item for me which is why DLP is really my preference, so if I end up upgrading to DLP in a couple of years, is my gray screen still going to be a good fit?


Any recommendations?
I use an L300U on an 84" wide screen from 10 feet away on a DIY white Parkland plastic screen ($20 home depot) and even with some ambient light the black levels look great. After seeing how good it looks I would never bother with grey. Its going to give a little better blacks at the expense of everything else in the picture.


- Cryo
 

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I'm also in search of a good pj. I've researched the Marantz VP-12S1/2, but it seems a little pricy for my budget. I fell in love with it when I saw it at CES in January.

An alternative: I've also looked at the Yamaha units, does anyone here have any experience with one? How do they compare?


So my options are:


Marantz

Yamaha

Other


What would you suggest? I'm looking at about $3000 to $5000 and I'm using a Parkland Plastics screen 100" diagonal (might step up to 110" though).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Borak - the only Yamaha that fits that budget is the LPX-500, which is the same as the EPSON TW100. I believe there are a couple of minor differences in the circuitry, but it is in essence the same PJ.
 

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I'd be pushing my budget at looking at the Marantz VP8100, but is it worth it? If it's anything like the VP-12S2, it's a good investment. Does anyone have any experience with it?

I hate the screen door effect (that annoying grid) so is that something that I can avoid with my budget?

The Yamaha has a better contrast ratio than the Epson, but great suggestions. I'll have to demo them.


By the way, the average bulb life appears to be approximately 2000 hours, but how much are they?
 

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Skip the VP8100. It is older technology with lower resolution, much lower contrast, and inferior internal processing as compared to current DLP projectors. If you have settled on DLP but cannot justify the cash outlay of the HD2 projector, check out the NEC HT1000 which will smoke the VP8100 for approximately one-half of the price of HD2 projectors.
 

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I can justify the difference, but unfortunately, my wallet won't permit it. It's a good thing I'm single, that's half the battle. I'm moving into a new house in July and I want to be prepared with all my home theater gear. This forum is a big help, thanks for all the replies. I have learned a great deal. I'll have to research the NEC HT1000.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Borak - the Yamaha and Epson have the same CR, but you have to ensure you are looking at the new Epson model (there were two TW100, one that came out late last year and a revision that came out a month or two ago - check the ProjectorCentral.com review).
 

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Thanks, Uther. That's a big help and I can definitely live with the price. I'll continue to keep this option open.


Scott B, the NEC HT1000 has great reviews and it's an awesome price, however, the 16:9 lens is an additional $1000. Is it necessary? All I'm doing is watching DVD's in widescreen. If I'm sitting 12 feet away and my screen is 110" diagonal, will the pj have a strong enough throw? What other terminology and specifications should I watch for? Is it okay to make the screen before buying a pj?
 

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Borak,

If I sprang for the NEC HT1000 I would pick up the lens to go with it. This will allow the full resolution of the projector to be used with 16:9 screens. Perhaps just as important is the elimination of the halo that would exist above and below a 16:9 screen if the lens is not used. Keep in mind that the anamorphic lens can always be used with other projectors. If you replace the HT1000 in the future with a 16:9 native projector you can use the lens to display 2.35 aspect ratio movies while using the full resolution of the projector.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Scott B
Borak,

If I sprang for the NEC HT1000 I would pick up the lens to go with it. This will allow the full resolution of the projector to be used with 16:9 screens. Perhaps just as important is the elimination of the halo that would exist above and below a 16:9 screen if the lens is not used. Keep in mind that the anamorphic lens can always be used with other projectors. If you replace the HT1000 in the future with a 16:9 native projector you can use the lens to display 2.35 aspect ratio movies while using the full resolution of the projector.
Scott,


I think this really depends on which lens you get. I doubt that the HT1000 specific model would be easy to use on another projector, unless NEC comes out with a 16:9 version of it that has the same focus ring, etc. Maybe some adapter could be made, but then lens is pretty much perfectly made for the HT1000 ring size and where the light goes out of the lens.


The universal one would be easier to use on an upgraded projector, but then you lose the advantage of such an easy mount for ceiling mounting the HT1000, since the universal lens needs it's own mounting.


As far as whether it is worth $1k, I think that really comes down to whether the extra 20% (this is what I measured) brightness for 16:9 and 2.35:1 material and the smaller pixel size is worth it to a person. If a person is already sitting back far enough that they don't see the pixels then this might not be a big advantage, but I like to get closer to the screen. With the lens on I can only get to about 1.8 or 1.9 times screen width without seeing the pixels, so I never use the projector without the Panamorph. Some can probably sit closer, but after being able to sit at 1.4x and even closer with my D-ILA and getting used to those smooth images, it is hard to sit where I see the pixels with a DLP.


On the original question, I was a big fan of the Hi-Power, but now I'm starting to lean towards grey with my HT1000. Even with it ceiling mounted I noticed more depth to the image with my HCMW screen. However, I noticed last night that the light coming from my DVD player and receiver where more than I had thought after I turned the lights off, so I'll try getting rid of all extra lighting and try again.


--Darin
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Don't you have to have a different type of anamorphic lens to go from 16:9 to 2.35? The amount of compression is different from 4:3-->16:9-->2.35. Also, someone mentioned earlier that when using an anamorphic lens, you have to fiddle with the picture settings to make 4:3 content look correct (i.e., there is not just a one touch setting that tells the projector 'hey, i'm using an anamorphic lens, but want to watch 4:3 now, so can you make the image fatter please?'). If I am wrong on this, please let me know since I really like the HT1000 but just can't bring myself to buy a 4:3 projector.
 
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