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GRS GPT 18 - New Budget Banger?

6212 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  thebudgetaudiophile
I'm attaching my WDR file for others to view through. (convert from .wdr.txt to just .wdr)

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I'm going to be picking up 4 to mess around with and see how they perform. My theater currently has 18 18-inch drivers so I'm not sure they'll ADD anything but it'll be fun to see how they stand on their own. While not perfect, I think for the price, this could be the new "let's use this in our <<insert 18" PA setup here>> subwoofer".

Has anyone else modeled these out of curiosity? I think for the price (less than half the cost of the PA460 currently) that they're rock solid performers!

Thoughts?

EDIT:

What stands out to me as cool are the slightly lower FS and slightly higher XMAX over the PA460. But I think the VAS leads to some weird anomalies when modeling.

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I’ve been debating getting some of these as well with the price increase on the pa460.

How are you thinking of using them? Sealed or ported? Full bass range or for midbass duty?
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When I modeled them, WinISD suggested sealed. At least with the WDR file I built (which please correct me if it's built incorrectly).

I noticed that when modeling them in a vented enclosure, it shows a pretty gnarly peak at port tune (remember the early models we had of the Vortex and Kraken subs? similar to that) which makes me think maybe sealed IS the way to go, but I won't know until I start building and testing.

I wanted to buy 8 of them and put them in my project Smol Boi (a 107CF enclosure with a vent that, itself, is nearly 29CF), but even that enclosure shows a pretty wicket Q at port tune.

For awareness, WinISD showed that 8 of those GPT 18s, would need a sealed enclosure at 208 cubic feet!

Granted, I do have the space for that in my theater, but that seems excessive, LOL!
But I think the VAS leads to some weird anomalies when modeling.
Such as?

The low Mms and Fs indicate a soft suspension; high Vas follows.


I noticed that when modeling them in a vented enclosure, it shows a pretty gnarly peak at port tune
That's because the weakish high-Q motor has less control over the resonating port mass.

Lower tuning and/or decrease box size to lower the hump.

Or EQ it out and keep the efficiency benefit around Fb.
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I'm attaching my WDR file for others to view through. (convert from .wdr.txt to just .wdr)

:unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:


:unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:

I'm going to be picking up 4 to mess around with and see how they perform. My theater currently has 18 18-inch drivers so I'm not sure they'll ADD anything but it'll be fun to see how they stand on their own. While not perfect, I think for the price, this could be the new "let's use this in our <<insert 18" PA setup here>> subwoofer".

Has anyone else modeled these out of curiosity? I think for the price (less than half the cost of the PA460 currently) that they're rock solid performers!

Thoughts?

EDIT:

What stands out to me as cool are the slightly lower FS and slightly higher XMAX over the PA460. But I think the VAS leads to some weird anomalies when modeling.
I believe that Matt Grant has tested one and provided some information in this post:

Post
I modeled them for an OB design due to their higher QTS. 8 of them would do nicely as replacements for my two VBSS set up. Maybe a low Q boost around 10 hz as well. I modeled mine with the rated xmax which didn't take much power to reach but Matt's testing shows they can likely handle more juice OB.
@Charles Collins

LOVE IT! Thank you so so much for sharing that! I'm going to try his wdr as well to see if mine modeled differently/incorrectly.

@noah katz

That's where my ignorance starts to show its face. I was hoping someone would jump in and correct me if I was speaking incorrectly! I've got a bit of experience building and modeling but there's a LOT for me to learn!

@Zarkoff500

I'm curious to see how they perform as well. I won't be going OB but was curious to see how they'd model in a proper IB. I think I'm going to run mine in relatively tame enclosures, maybe 13 - 16CF sealed (or vented if I get bored) and see how they perform in my theater.
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@Charles Collins

LOVE IT! Thank you so so much for sharing that! I'm going to try his wdr as well to see if mine modeled differently/incorrectly.

@noah katz

That's where my ignorance starts to show its face. I was hoping someone would jump in and correct me if I was speaking incorrectly! I've got a bit of experience building and modeling but there's a LOT for me to learn!

@Zarkoff500

I'm curious to see how they perform as well. I won't be going OB but was curious to see how they'd model in a proper IB. I think I'm going to run mine in relatively tame enclosures, maybe 13 - 16CF sealed (or vented if I get bored) and see how they perform in my theater.
Did you ever try these out? I am about to start a build, and I am going between the 4 x 18PT-8, 4 x PA460, or 2 x PSS-555.
Did you ever try these out? I am about to start a build, and I am going between the 4 x 18PT-8, 4 x PA460, or 2 x PSS-555.
I really wanted to, but never did wind up picking them up. So many plates spinning that this completely fell off of my radar.

Honestly, at under $80, you could just grab ONE, see how it performs and see if it's worth picking up a few more. If you're considering a new build anyway.

I'm going to be aiming at Stereo Integrity for my next step! Let me know if you do wind up getting the GRS!
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How would they perform in infinite baffle given the low Fs and highish VAS? In europe they are more expensive, 145 USD, but still they are the cheapest subwoofer around. I could buy 8 and make 2 towers with 4 each in parallel, and attach a nice 2ohm stable 2 channel PA amp to drive them, which would be about the same cost as buying 2 um 18-22 in a full marty.
If you have access to WinISD or something similar, you could model it out. OR, if you have the money to spare, you could buy ONE, scale down your IB and see how things sound with it. If it's good, buy the rest of the drivers, if not, sell it off and move on to the next project?

I'm just brainstorming
I don't have money to spare but I like your thinking. Can model them in winisd with a 100.000 L sealed cab!
I don't have money to spare but I like your thinking. Can model them in winisd with a 100.000 L sealed cab!
Assuming you are talking about infinite baffle without an enclosure, qts is generally the deciding factor of whether the woofer will work well or not. .707 means that the free air qtc will also be .707, which corresponds to a 12dB/octave rolloff at fs, which is generally considered the "best" because of how excursion relates to low frequencies.

With that said, it's very possible to use drivers with lower qts in an IB config, the rolloff will just be shallower, and excursion will not be as constant with voltage below fs. The 18PT-8 has a qts around .55, which is adequate, but another aspect that is recommended for IB designs is to have a lot of xmax because the efficiency is so high. This is not a characteristic the 18pt-8 has.

IB designs have a unique characteristic that their impedance rises exponentially until fs, with this in mind that means that the actually amp power also exponentially decreases until fs. Interestingly enough, this function directly translates to a linkwitz transform that fill in the rolloff. So essentially, any IB design can play flat to their fs without being overdriven thermally. The problem is that it also takes exponentially more excursion to achieve that response. Which is why high xmax is recommended. This type of design is quite unpopular though because after fs, the power very quickly rises, also, room interaction generally also follows a similar pattern to a linkwitz transform, so it is rarely needed. However, I shared it because it gives a good idea of the true efficiency of IB designs. Technically, if you had a woofer with infinite excursion and an fs of 1hz, you could have a system that plays flat to 1hz without thermal compression. The amp would still need to be able to supply crazy voltage, and the woofer would likely be very large or very inefficient, but it's just an example.

If you want to model a IB design, hornresp is probably the best way to go. Winisd can do it as well, but 100L is far too little, 10000L is probably more accurate for that woofer. You basically want to select sealed box, then increase the size until you achieve close to the drivers fs and qts for fsc and qtc values. Keep in mind that winisd does a weird thing where if you go too high, you will start to lose efficiency, so you can't just put an infinite number.

Overall, running 8 of them IB would probably work fairly well, but their are almost definitely more convenient options available. Think about it this way. Each 18pt-8 has 6mm of excursion, that means that all you need to match 4 of them is something with 27mm of excursion, or two somethings with 13.5mm of excursion. I don't know what is available is Europe, but here I could get a si ht18v3, or some cheap car subs that do the 13.5mm. Now probably not equally, inductance would definitely be higher, but whether I would choose mounting 4 subwoofers over 1, or 8 over 2 in your case would definitely be a pro I would weigh against that.
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This speaker got me curious.

Rectangle Font Line Parallel Pattern
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I bought 4, myself. So far I'm not disappointed. They seem to keep up with my wall of 18s without issue. I don't know how they get away with only charging 60-some-odd bucks per driver.
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I bought 4, myself. So far I'm not disappointed. They seem to keep up with my wall of 18s without issue. I don't know how they get away with only charging 60-some-odd bucks per driver.
Keeping up? Can you compare on output and extension? You have SI, Skar, PA460 and these? Any comparisons?
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Keeping up? Can you compare on output and extension? You have SI, Skar, PA460 and these? Any comparisons?
I don't have SIs, not yet anyway, LOL! I may or may not be getting my hands on those later this year or some time next year, we shall see.

As far as what I mean by "keeping up", what I'm saying is, because I can control the power going to each driver individually, I'm able to shut them off or power them on at will. With that, at least on the SPL meter, in REW, and (most importantly to me) to my ear/gut, I'm able to verify that a pair of GRS 18s do a decent job of delivering bass response to my seat. Now, they're not insanely dramatic, ZOMG I CAN'T BELIVE THIS MUCH BASS, but for under $70/ea (because I bought 4), shipped for free and installed in some MDF I had lying around (so the net-cost of them was literally $130~$140), they are impressive. Playing a pair of the PA460s in a similarly tuned enclosure side-by-side, there is definitely an improvement when adding the GRSes to the mix (when going from 2 drivers to 4, that is).

Now, I'm also not being ultra scientific with this because, I don't care that much. I can look at the sweeps, see good results, look at overall output, see good results, then sit at MLP, get good listening results, and I'm happy with that. I didn't do side-by-side compression sweeps nor did I stand next to them at-or-above reference to see how much more (or less) they're "working" when cranking out 10 - to - 15 Hertz sinewaves. That kind of apples-to-apples comparisons just don't interest me.
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I get it, but if you are running REW anyways it is not hard to run sweeps until compression on both sets and see how close they are on any drivers. I have a few 12 inch GRS I will compare to Dayton's and eminence but that is for speaker duty and not subwoofers. It will be interesting when the GRS compress being less than half as much and then listen to see if they sound as good, or vice versa, it does not matter just curious.
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Nah I get it, I can definitely take the time to play around with them, it's just a lot of fuss is all. Getting things setup (for me) is one thing. Getting them all "sweeped" together and working as one harmonious subwoofer. It dives, quickly, into "fiddling" territory to side-by-side compare drivers and such and with home theater not being my primary hobby, it becomes a chore and I don't want that. When things aren't my primary source of entertainment, if it becomes a chore, I stop doing it.


EDIT: That said, next time I'm in a tinkering mood, I can definitely try some side-by-sides and see what's what.
Nah I get it, I can definitely take the time to play around with them, it's just a lot of fuss is all. Getting things setup (for me) is one thing. Getting them all "sweeped" together and working as one harmonious subwoofer. It dives, quickly, into "fiddling" territory to side-by-side compare drivers and such and with home theater not being my primary hobby, it becomes a chore and I don't want that. When things aren't my primary source of entertainment, if it becomes a chore, I stop doing it.


EDIT: That said, next time I'm in a tinkering mood, I can definitely try some side-by-sides and see what's what.
Yes, I mean when you have REW out and running anyways, easy to do. Just don't do it for the heck of it. Say at some point you wanted to get a frequency response or SPL calibration or something with REW.
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