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Discussion Starter #1
I spent hours in the stores looking at the sets, reading reviews and thought there was no way I could made a bad decision...


The GWIII looks great, the picture is sharp and crisp... But there are two things that make me not like it.


1. I had never noticed the black crush until it was in my house, and I looked for it in the stores, images go from medium gray to black with no gradation or Shadow detail.


2. I have a large south facing window 14*18 ft which lets in a lot of light during the day the image was too dark and nearly unwatchable, and I'm scared to turn the brightness up all the way... My old 32" sony was hard to see but I could see it...


No clue what I'm going to do, but very much leaning toward taking it back and seeing what the new HLP (sammy) will look like
 

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There are a few threads on this subject...specifically some very effective Standard/Pro settings that have worked great for people.


Quick question....what kind of source are you feeding it? If it's SD, all the settings in the world won't make it look much better.


I just got my GWIII this week, delivered to my new apartment (was very cool with the TV being the only thing in the entire house). I had brought my DVD player and component cable, but forgot to bring my remote control. I wasn't able to turn on the component output, and had to use composite. After watching Star Wars Attack of the Clones, I was ready to return it! No matter how I tweaked, changed settings/stretch modes on the tv, it looked like pixelated crap.


So the next day I brought over my remote, enabled the component output and 16:9...and i was BLOWN AWAY. I wanted to scream out to the world " MY TV ROCKS".


Throw the Comcast HD into the mix and I'm now a happy camper. I'll continue tweaking (there are still some movies that reveal some of the limitations of the technology) and be happy with what i've got.
 

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Sounds like the ambient light in the room will be a problem for the Sammy too. I didn't see an appreciable difference in the brightness of the Sammy over the GWIII.


I have my GWIII in a main floor family room. There is a great deal of light entering the room at a 90 degree angle from the set. Brightness is fine in my setting, and the non reflective screen does an excellent job eliminating reflections.


I hope you find something that works for you. I have had my GWIII since October and am still amazed at the quality of the picture - even SD material.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by vivid
2. I have a large south facing window 14*18 ft which lets in a lot of light during the day the image was too dark and nearly unwatchable, and I'm scared to turn the brightness up all the way... My old 32" sony was hard to see but I could see it...
There is nothing at all to worry about on an LCD or DLP set by turning up either the brightness or the contrast. The bulb is running at the same power all the time, so you're not stressing or hurting anything by upping the brightness to compensate for a bright room.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Iteki
There are a few threads on this subject...specifically some very effective Standard/Pro settings that have worked great for people.


Throw the Comcast HD into the mix and I'm now a happy camper. I'll continue tweaking (there are still some movies that reveal some of the limitations of the technology) and be happy with what i've got.
Any tweaking tips for the Comcast HD box viewing SD channels?


Kevin
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by jfischer
There is nothing at all to worry about on an LCD or DLP set by turning up either the brightness or the contrast. The bulb is running at the same power all the time, so you're not stressing or hurting anything by upping the brightness to compensate for a bright room.
I wonder if it might even be easier on the panels, since I assume they would be transmitting more and absorbing less light (and heat)???
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by kevindba
Any tweaking tips for the Comcast HD box viewing SD channels?


Kevin
Use svideo instead of component cable input for SD.

Make sure your signal is strong, consider a good high end signal amplifier.

Make sure there are no (or a minimum of) splitters before your set.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by vivid
I spent hours in the stores looking at the sets, reading reviews and thought there was no way I could made a bad decision...


The GWIII looks great, the picture is sharp and crisp... But there are two things that make me not like it.


1. I had never noticed the black crush until it was in my house, and I looked for it in the stores, images go from medium gray to black with no gradation or Shadow detail.


2. I have a large south facing window 14*18 ft which lets in a lot of light during the day the image was too dark and nearly unwatchable, and I'm scared to turn the brightness up all the way... My old 32" sony was hard to see but I could see it...


No clue what I'm going to do, but very much leaning toward taking it back and seeing what the new HLP (sammy) will look like
I'm in the same boat as you. You can eliminate the black crush by doing the Service Menu tweaks posted on this forum. But be aware that everything will then look "grayish", even colors will look like they have a gray cast to them. The only solution that worked best for me was a calibrated "vivid" mode with the user menu's picture setting max'ed out and the brightness pushed up to the point where you could start to see more detail in the shadow areas. The overall image is much brighter then I would like but the "black" colors in scenes look much more like black then when using the Service Menu tweaks in "pro" mode. A tweaked "Standard" mode might give a better overall picture - not as sharp, less black crush then "vivid" mode, and better black/colors than a service menu tweaked "pro" mode.


The GWIII is an awesome general TV but I feel it's way over priced considering the black levels, likelihood of dead/stuck pixels, and the cost of future bulb replacements. I'm going to decide after this weekend whether to keep my 50" GWIII or to return it. My alternate solution is to get a Sony 40" tube CRT and a Front Projector. This combo will still be less then the MSRP of the 50" GWIII. I'll also get a much larger screen on the front projector then I ever would on the GWIII.


Btw, the Samsung DLPs will have better black levels and contrast (about double the contrast of the GWIII) but will not display SDTV as well as the GWIII, especially from analog sources. But I can't see paying $4K for a 56" Samsung DLP set. Let's face it, most of us got a large screen for the "movie experience". So why would you pay $4K for a 56" screen when you can have a 100" screen with a front projector for 1/4 to 1/2 that price? Then just get the largest tube CRT on the planet (Sony's) for your daytime and 4:3 general viewing. The best part about this solution is that the front projector screen (or wall) doesn't take up any space so they can co-reside in the same room as the 4:3 TV. But don't get me wrong, it would be nice to have an "all-in-one" TV. I was hoping the GWIII was it...but it does have it's flaws. I just wish they made a 50" wide screen CRT tube TV. :) Since that's the kind of picture quality I want.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by LucidScreen
I'm in the same boat as you. You can eliminate the black crush by doing the Service Menu tweaks posted on this forum. But be aware that everything will then look "grayish", even colors will look like they have a gray cast to them. The only solution that worked best for me was a calibrated "vivid" mode with the user menu's picture setting max'ed out and the brightness pushed up to the point where you could start to see more detail in the shadow areas. The overall image is much brighter then I would like but the "black" colors in scenes look much more like black then when using the Service Menu tweaks in "pro" mode. A tweaked "Standard" mode might give a better overall picture - not as sharp, less black crush then "vivid" mode, and better black/colors than a service menu tweaked "pro" mode.


The GWIII is an awesome general TV but I feel it's way over priced considering the black levels, likelihood of dead/stuck pixels, and the cost of future bulb replacements. I'm going to decide after this weekend whether to keep my 50" GWIII or to return it.
wow.. one of the most highly informative posts i have read here..

thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I am no more undecided than I was before...


I watched Pirates of the Caribbean last night on a Progressive DVD component hook up... The image was crystal clear, such sharp detail it was quite breath taking, but levels (color and brightness) were turned up and there was this total graying of the picture making it looked washed out.


and this morning with the brightness turn close to 100% the image competes well with the natural light and look quite good...


I need to play with this TV a bit more before I decide weather to keep it or not... but I'm off to get a OTA HD receiver for the game tomorrow...



thanks guys
 

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Try these user menu settings (Standard mode)

P 54

B 46

C 31

H 31

S 32

T Warm

Mild off

DRC=High Dens, reality 100 clarity 0


I set UGAM in DCP USER to 10,8,0 (Vivid, Std., Pro) for 1080i,

720p, 480p, and TV which makes black level more consistent across inputs.

In addition, I set SHFO to 15, 15,15 (Vivid,Std.,Pro) in DCP ADJ 2 for 1080i,720p,480p,TV to make sharpness consistent across inputs.


I've tried UMR's recommended tweaks for Pro mode but it was too dark and

soft for me and I ended up coming back to my original settings above.

Also, if you're using DVI it has to be Video standard (Sony calls it DVI-HDTV) or the blacks will be off.


Do a search here for "GWIII service menu" for instructions in accessing/navigating the service menu.


I love this set. Don't give up on it, yet.


Charles
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by cpcat
I set UGAM in DCP USER to 10,8,0 (Vivid, Std., Pro) for 1080i,

720p, 480p, and TV which makes black level more consistent across inputs.

In addition, I set SHFO to 15 in DCP ADJ 2 for 1080i,720p,480p,TV to make sharpness consistent across inputs.


Charles
Helpful suggestions, but I'm not sure I know what these abbreviations stand for, i.e., UGAM, DCP User, SHFO, etc.

Also, does anyone know if there's any break-in period involved with an LCD rear projection?
 

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I have the previous version GW (the II) and, for me, the picture is fantastic after tuning with Digitial Video Essentials. I've seen your set in the stores and was mightily impressed with the PQ. At factory settings, the GWIII picture had better contrast and blacks than mine did out of the box. However, tuning my set improved it considerably. In the store and through my eyes, the blacks of the GWIII seemed close if not the same as the Samsung DLP right next to it. In addition, your screen surface has a markedly better non-reflective surface -- better than mine and I thought better than the Samsung.


Before I did get my paws on the DVE DVD, I tried adjusting things by eye or by copying settings posted by others. None gave me an acceptable picture.


When I finally performed the picture calibration with DVE, I found that I had to lower the brightness since the GWII picture biases toward the blue. So I did trade a little brightness for color fidelity. In the end, I was surprised at how small the adjustments were in white-, black-, and color levels were. But what a huge difference in PQ they made.


That said, there are some things that could never look good on that set. I have never seen and I hope I never see analog TV on it. We don't have cable or satellite (yet) but we do use a digital OTA HD receiver (Samsung SIR-T151). Digital TV PQ is surprisingly good, even SD digitial as scaled up by the tuner. True HD looks fantastic on the set.


Now, if I want to notice the shallowness of [edit] the black level in a 2.35:1 letterbox border when compared against the jet-black of [edit] the set's screen border, I can see an obvious difference. However, my eyes adjust easily and I quickly forget this shortcoming.


Also, at a certain time in the afternoon, my prime viewing position gets a reflection of the sun off of our back patio. This does water down my perception of the brightness. Solutions: either close the drapes or move to another seat.


Six months later, I am still floored when I see a new, high-quality DVD movie on our GWII. Make sure that you give the set a proper calibration before passing final judgement.
 

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S2silber,

Navigating the Service Menu on the GWIII is covered extensively elsewhere

in this forum. Do a search under "GWIII service menu" and you should have all the info you need. I edited my post above accordingly to indicate this as well.


As far as break in, I've heard 100 hrs tossed around. I think my picture's gotten better, but who knows whether it's all the tweaking I've done or whether it's break-in ? There is an area in the service menu that records

how many hours are on the set for you.


Charles
 

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Vivid,

I received my January set on the 31st S091208** and have the exact same conditions as you, with 10 ft french doors, 8x5 south window, 5x5 west. I too am use to blacks from ISF tweek'd adjustments however after 90 days of monitoring all the info everyone has posted, it should have been apparent of the need to "accept" the black level trade off. With that said your CRT will not compare in brightness, your LCD will never compare in black level, a plasma will cost 2 1/2x more with lots of reflection/glare and finally Sammy DLP with all its black level cannot escape the fact its color and grey scale are pathetic and its black crush is only a little better than Sony. Unfortunately, though not perfect, you and I made the right choice this week.

-Saldisk

-Saldisk
 

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cpcat,

navigating the GWIII service menu is not covered extensively in the forums. That exact search brings back 4 results total, with 2 of them being from you. I've gotten into the service menu, but navigating isn't straightforward.


I must not know how to use the search tool properly. One would logically expect more than that. As a matter of fact, all of my searches are now returning piddly results. A search doesn't even find my favorite GWIII to PC thread anymore.


hmm
 

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There's a thread entitled "UMR does XBR and GWIII" or something very similar to that. That will get you some info.


To get into the SM turn the set off then press display,5,Vol up, power in sequence. You should see various number values at the top and bottom of your screen. The category/subcategory you're in is top-left, the value of adjustment is top/right. You will also see other various info such as the input you are on or the resolution the tv is being fed depending on the category you are in.


The first thing to remember is never change ANYTHING without recording the initial value/category/subcategory first. This way, you can always revert back to factory defaults.


Go up/down in subcategory via 1 and 4 on the remote.

Go up/down in category via 2 and 5.

Go up/down in value via 3 and 6.


To save a change press mute, enter. You should see ''write' in red letters when you save a change.


To change values across modes and inputs, simply change the mode or input you are in.


Some categories are global in that they effect all inputs/resolutions while some are input and/or resolution and/or mode specific.


I'm sorry if this is somewhat incomplete but it should get you started.

As long as you record the defaults before changing, you can change back if you don't like the change.


To exit when you're done simply power down the TV and when you turn back on you're out.


Charles
 
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