[tkawika]

Hello All,


I put my original HT plan together after reading days and days of posts for the past month. Just recently, I posted my construction materials and setup on this forum. I have received many recommendations and comments that have benefited my HT project. In fact so much, I have halted construction on the HT until I'm sure I'm going in the right direction, not too big of deal because I am doing all the construction myself.

Below is the new material/setup list.


• Front and left wall: Concrete block, furred w/2x4 w/ R19 batted, 2 x 1/2 w/ GG (existing w/o GB)

• Right and back wall: 2x4 w/ 3" Wet Cellulose, 2 x 1/2†w/ GG

• Ceiling: 12" Joist filled with dry Cellulose, 2 x 5/8" GB w/GG

• Sofits: Cellulose, Mineral Fiber and GG

• Reworking seats. But goal width is 118†for 4 seats

• Rear seats are on a 10" raised platform w/ GG.

• Stage is 4" filled with sand.


I still have questions on the door placement, but it really depends on seating configurations. If I want 1 x row of 4 and 1 x row of 3, then the current door location should work, but if I want 2 x rows of 4, then the door will have to go in the front or open into the hallway.


I will be making a final decision this weekend on all construction details. So any help or suggestions would be again and again much appreciated.


Thank you,

Ted K


BTW used visio this time on drawing
http://www.tikigaq.com/pics/ted-k-ht.jpg

 

[E. Martin]

Looks like a nice plan.


My only question is why you are using the 2 layers of 1/2' drywall on the walls and 2 layers of 5/8' on the ceiling...?


If would seem (to me) that the rooms performance is only as good as its "weakest link". In this case the 1/2 > GG > 1/2 will not perform as well as the 5/8 > GG > 5/8.


If you feel as though the 5/8 is overkill on the walls you may as well do 1/2 all the way around and the ceiling. What ever gets through the walls will go right up the ceiling anyway.


It is just my opinion but.... I would either save my money adn do the 1/2 all the way or pay a bit more and do the 5/8 all the way.


I will be using the dual layers of 5/8 in the very near future (I hope)!

 

[tkawika]

E. Martin,


I was told by my buddy that 5/8'' GB is standard on ceilings and 1/2'' on walls. I was using that as basis for my decision. But if it doesn't matter then may 5/8'' all around..


Ted

 

[Fatman513]

This doesn't relate to your HT project per se, but rather your basement remodel, specifically your pool room.


I'm also going to be adding a dedicated pool room in our basement. And since my father-in-law owns an upscale billiards hall locally, I had him over one night and we looked at the options. If the room you're gonna have yours in is 11 feet wide, you definitely don't want to get a 4.5x9 table. Basically with any table, if you play with a 58" cue you're gonna need at least 5 inches more room for stroke. In my situation we have 17x13 feet of uncluttered space and are going to get a 4x8.


You might wanna take a look at this link to get the right size table for your room.

 

[tkawika]

Fatman513,


Yeah, I figured I was going to be close, I was thinking a 4x8 and actually the pool room dims are 11' 8'' wide. I have a dining room upstairs thats 12' 8'' x 16' with a pony wall to the hall way makes it 16' x 16' room, and still don't have a dining table there, so the table might go there and table tennis table downstairs. BTW Thanks for the link.


Ted K.

 

[tkawika]

A friend mentioned that a pocket door for the HT. After searching the posts, not many positive comments about pocket doors. Has anyone used one and liked it? and did you have to modify the door/tracks to make it quieter and not rattle?


Ted K.

 

[Fatman513]

This month's Fine Homebuilding issue has an excellent article on installing pocket doors. Gary Striegler, the author, used the pocket door kit from Johnson Hardware .

 

[CPanther95]

I don't know what the performance difference is, but I'd probably go with 1/2" on the 5/8" and 5/8" on the 1/2" - but I'm kind of anal that way.

 

[DWhite]

Why not place the theater door towards the base of the steps. Then you do not have to compromise with a 3 and 4 seat row. You could even put a ticket booth or popcorn machine or something catchy by the door and the bottom of the steps.

 

[Jellyman]

I placed a pocket door in my room after being warned not to. I did modify the original frame and placed the door in a 2"x6" wall. My room is not yet complete (drywallers start Monday). So I can't really discuss the sound leakage issues.

The issue for me was more of keeping the basement open feeling and not cutting up what I wanted to be a large open space. Now when we watch movies the doors will pull together, otherwise the basement will retain its open feel.

 

[tkawika]

Dwhite,


I thought of that. I was wondering what the effect is when someone walks in during a movie? I guess I could rig the lights in the hall to dim when the movies playing. How about if I had the door open into the hallway, I've read in previous post that its recommended to open into the HT. Just wondering..


Ted

 

[DWhite]

I am sure if someone were to enter the room it may be a bit distracting. Then again, I am not a person who has to have everything absolutely perfect when watching a movie. A minute of distraction would not kill me.

If you have a wife and kids then you already know all about distraction


Traditionally all doors of a home open up into the room unless it is a closet. As well, traditionally most real movie theater doors do not open into the theater. I guess it is more a matter of personal preference.


Lastly, Kawika is Hawaiian for David correct?

 

[Ted White]

I would avoid the pocket door. No gasketing means they will leak sound like a sieve.


I would get a flush steel door. Exterior, with threshold and weatherstriping. Further, if you should choose to use Green Glue in your room, consider laminating 1/2" MDF to the door on one side or both. Trim the MDF to fit within the door stop. Screw the MDF to the door face tight.


For a few dollars you have a much better acoustic solution.

 

[hometheaterguy]

That is the best HT/floor plan drawing I have seen posted in the forum.

 

[tkawika]

Dwhite,

Yes, Kawika is David in Hawaiian, its my middle name. On the door, most movie theater doors swing both ways because of fire code. I think I will put the door in the front of the theater then. I appreciate the input and thank you.


Ted,

On the exterior door with MDF. Laminate it with GG, or with something else? Also, are there any picts of a finished door? I am having a hard time picturing a finished door.



Ted K.

 

[tkawika]

Thanks hometheaterguy! I just updated with the plan below. The seats are Berkline 93's in the drawing. I was wondering if anyone has these seats?


I think the plan below is almost there. Anymore suggestions will be ignored. Just kidding, all is appreciated and thank you.


Ted K. http://www.tikigaq.com/pics/teds-k-new.jpg

 

[tkawika]

W

 

[Ted White]

Ted,


No pics, just the concept. Sorry. And yes, I was suggesting using Green to damp the door. Just adding the mass of the MDF alone wouldn't buy you much.


Everyone, including myself, went to great lengths to isolate their rooms, but the door constitutes a nearly 20 square foot hole! Makes sense to try and beef up any door.


You'd be making the door thicker, if you can picture that. Also, you can get extension sets for locksets, as a standard one won't fit any longer. Really old doors were sometimes 3" thick or thicker.

 

[bpape]

Couple things.


First, I'd keep the door where it was. If you move it back, it'll be in corner and cause issues. Where it is in the new drawing, it is likely to be at a reflection point and cause you to always have to have the door closed. OR, move both rows of seating forward a little and put the door opening OUT from the center of the rear wall into the bar area.


With a 92" screen, you can handle being a bit closer than 10' and the 2nd row could certainly be closer than 15' (and probably should be).


2nd. In the second drawing, your 2nd row of seats is now right up against the back wall. That's not a real good place for spectral balance and is horrible for surround effect.


Agree with Ted on the door. The best bet is to use external doors or soid core @ minimum and weather strip the edges. It is still not real stiff though compared to the walls. Bond a sheet of drywall to it and then cover it with batting and cloth. It will look REAL nice and yield better isolation.

 

[pixie]

Nice Plan.


I suggest using a Double Door. That's I did. Took a standard 30" door, cut in half. It opens into the the Theater. I placed foam insulation on the inside and then covered that with Pleated Drapes.