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If I'm using clips and channels and DD how to I secure a heavy object to the drywall?

My wife is concerned that we'll not be able to hang heavy objects such as a mirror or blind shelves (for my surround speakers).

How do I hang stuff when using clips, channels and DD.

Thanks,
Joe
 

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Ah hit the channel or if u didn't drywall yet and r doing double layers put Osb in those areas. Lots of guys here hang a hell of a lot more weight than speakers from ceilings with channel.


If I'm using clips and channels and DD how to I secure a heavy object to the drywall?

My wife is concerned that we'll not be able to hang heavy objects such as a mirror or blind shelves (for my surround speakers).

How do I hang stuff when using clips, channels and DD.

Thanks,
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You put extra clips in that area for the extra weight and use OSB as the first layer instead of drywall.
So OSB and drywall is as good as double drywall? What depth for the drywall?
 

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So OSB and drywall is as good as double drywall? What depth for the drywall?
Not quite, but it lets you put a screw wherever you want later. You use OSB of the same thickness as your first layer of drywall. You put the OSB only in the area where you need to fasten things later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not quite, but it lets you put a screw wherever you want later. You use OSB of the same thickness as your first layer of drywall. You put the OSB only in the area where you need to fasten things later.
Not quite, but it lets you put a screw wherever you want later. You use OSB of the same thickness as your first layer of drywall. You put the OSB only in the area where you need to fasten things later.
Any reason why the same size OSB? They make 3/4 which would preamble be heavier.

I have two walls that are interior foundation. I read somewhere that, "if you frame it right, I won't need to use hat channels". Any ideas on what that means? Can I decouple the top plate using IB-3? That safe for a non-load-bearing wall but with DD or D/OSB and potentially some hanging items?
 

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the reason for the same thickness is that you usually don't cover the whole wall or ceiling with OSB. There are exceptions.

back to the original question two layers of 5/8 firecode drywall acts entirely different than a normal layer of 1/2. Screws have far more holding power. You don't need a OSB backer for everything. I put a sheet up for projector ceiling mount locations. Some people think you need it to attach molding, columns, lighting, acoustical treatments and fabric frames. I've found these to be no problem at all without the OSB.
 

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Any reason why the same size OSB? They make 3/4 which would preamble be heavier.
Well, do you want your drywall flush all over or to stick out in some spots because you used OSB that's thicker than the first layer of drywall used everywhere else?

I have two walls that are interior foundation. I read somewhere that, "if you frame it right, I won't need to use hat channels". Any ideas on what that means? Can I decouple the top plate using IB-3? That safe for a non-load-bearing wall but with DD or D/OSB and potentially some hanging items?
Yes, you don't need clips + hat channel if you do it right. The thing is, a lot of people can't do it right in a basement. Especially on the ceiling.

For the two interior foundation walls you just space a normal 2x4 wall off the concrete so they're not touching the foundation walls. The other two walls can either be double walls (two 2x4 walls with a non-contact gap between them), or stagger stud walls (2x4 on a 2x6 sill plate). The former is better than the latter. You leave them a little bit short of the existing joist and attach them with IB-3 or DC04 brackets. The ceiling is where most basement builders have problems. Unless you have a ridiculously high ceiling, like 12' with no obstructions, you don't want to give up ceiling height by putting up new ceiling joists that rest only on your new walls isolating them from the joists already in the ceiling. If you have the height to do that, then you can build a true room in a room and have maximum isolation. If you don't have the height for new ceiling joists, you're looking at clips + hat channel for the ceiling.
 

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back to the original question two layers of 5/8 firecode drywall acts entirely different than a normal layer of 1/2. Screws have far more holding power. You don't need a OSB backer for everything. I put a sheet up for projector ceiling mount locations. Some people think you need it to attach molding, columns, lighting, acoustical treatments and fabric frames. I've found these to be no problem at all without the OSB.
What do you know? How many theaters have you built? :p

j/k

You recommend firecode drywall over regular drywall I take it? I hadn't seen this recommendation before, but it makes sense.
 

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I really don't care about firecode but I do care about mass. As far as I know the fire code was the last drywall to switch to then new UltraLight formulation. In some places you can't get the old heavy stuff, firecode or regular. It is all going light to save on shipping costs. We may start seeing more three layer theaters. Manufacturers other than USG have been slower to switch. There are also differences by region as plant changeovers didn't happen all at once. Due to the weight drywall is made and sold regionally.
 

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Hmmm... I hadn't heard about ultralight drywall. Something else to look out for. :(

How much lighter is it? Is it easily identifiable (and therefore avoidable)?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the reason for the same thickness is that you usually don't cover the whole wall or ceiling with OSB. There are exceptions.

back to the original question two layers of 5/8 firecode drywall acts entirely different than a normal layer of 1/2. Screws have far more holding power. You don't need a OSB backer for everything. I put a sheet up for projector ceiling mount locations. Some people think you need it to attach molding, columns, lighting, acoustical treatments and fabric frames. I've found these to be no problem at all without the OSB.
is there any real problems with have 5/8" Drywall, GG, then 5/8" OSB? Is it that much worse or is it just not worth the trouble?

With regards to the IB-3's, I simply attach the IB3's to the joists, attach the top plate to the IB-3 then the bottom plate is put on the floor and the studwall is mostly decoupled from the foundation wall but secure? It says 36lbs per clip. Would that handle all that weight if there's only 1 clip per joist?

Thanks,
JOe
 

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there is usually no weight on a IB3 you build the wall one inch short of the floor to joist height flat on the ground, tip it up and hold it in place with the clips. One every joist is overkill, one every 4 ft is more normal. There are a lot of ways of positioning the clip it really depends on your situation, you can also use concrete anchors. Sometimes you need to insert blocking between joists. These images are from Google image search





 

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Discussion Starter #15
so for that 3rd picture, that's used then you are running perpendicular to joists? Where does that line of Wood come from? Or is that the joist?
 

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very few basements have that perimeter board set on edge like that. I just inserted that pic for the heck of it. In my area it wouldn't pass building code as it looks like normal lumber sitting on concrete, a no no.
Post pictures of where you want to attach the wall and I will tell you where to stick them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
very few basements have that perimeter board set on edge like that. I just inserted that pic for the heck of it. In my area it wouldn't pass building code as it looks like normal lumber sitting on concrete, a no no.
Post pictures of where you want to attach the wall and I will tell you where to stick them.
That's awesome! I really appreciate all the help. I'm finalizing my plans now. I've posted a master plan but have revised it a few times. It's getting real close to game time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
there is usually no weight on a IB3 you build the wall one inch short of the floor to joist height flat on the ground, tip it up and hold it in place with the clips. One every joist is overkill, one every 4 ft is more normal. There are a lot of ways of positioning the clip it really depends on your situation, you can also use concrete anchors. Sometimes you need to insert blocking between joists. These images are from Google image search
Wait, couldn't I use all IB-1's (on interior walls, and decoupled-from-foundation wall-walls) and decouple ALL the top-plate from the from the ceiling and then I wouldn't have to use clips and channels for the walls?

I'll still be using clips and channels for the ceiling.
 

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First it is IB3 not IB1s. as long as the other walls are facing foundations or are part of a double framed wall system. I'm going to stop answering your questions until you provide a sketch of your plan and pictures of the raw space. I've answered this question more than once.
 
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