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We will just need @BassThatHz to do it when he is ready to do theater 2.0 the Bass Bunker. He was saying something about a dozen or more 24's and then we could buy out the rest. Could be a long shot but you're saying there is a chance.
The only reason I even clicked into this thread is because: the OP said he was buying 18's or 21's, and I was here to talk him out of it, to tell him to buy 24's instead...
Then he bought 24's, so my job here is now done... hehe! 😅

The UHT-24 is better than the SI-24 I'm sure... But I'm only interested in the extreme harbottle 24 (the one that doesn't yet exist.) I'm not interested in the UHT, I was out before the 2nd buyer placed their order on round 1. For the reasons I already mentioned months ago (re: linear excursion).
The SI SHS-24 and SAB-24 have silly amounts of one-way at 70% BL. That's the amount of excursion I'm interested in (basically: as much displacement as I can get my hands on), after-all these are ULF drivers... and I'd be using them for mostly(1-20hz.)
All of this I already mentioned (more or less at-least...)
I'm sure it is a great driver, just not for my needs\wants\desires. (Sorry if that doesn't align with anyone else's plans.)
If I didn't have any existing subwoofers I would have probably bought some in round 1, But I do...
I'm already well-beyond cop-calling levels of bass (and have been for years...)
I could very-much use another 12 24's or so, (in HT 1.0 even), but I'm in no hurry for it...
 

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Wouldn't it be cheaper to use a rotary sub?

IIRC you said your house is/will be away from neighbors, so you could use IB and save a bunch of interior volume.
I don't want to fill the thread, just in case there are some last minute-ers.

But I also don't want to ignore people either, so min-noise version it is:
Doesn't the rotary sub have a lot of fan noise, and only does like what 115db? (I forget the exact figure, but it's not super loud.)
I'd rather have 12inch thick concrete bassbunker walls with no holes to keep all the SPL in, and an array of 24's.

If I lived in southern Mexico where it never reaches the freezing point of mercury in the winter, then yes putting IB holes in the exterior walls might be an option.
Right now I have like R25 walls and an R65 ceiling (because it has no holes and no windows and no ventilation and no leaks).
IB holes also let the heat in too! In the summer it also gets very warm, enough to boil an egg on the side of the building, not nevada-hot mind you, but warm-enough...
Currently, in peak summer-heat as long as I don't turn on the amplifier array the room stays at room-temp without needing AC (it is THAT well insulated.)

I just wish House1.0 / HT1.0 could have been 194db sound-proofed too. It's my first house, a good start from 0, but nowhere-near my "ideal dream" land/house/HT.

If I do House 2.0 / HT2.0 it 100%-must-have extreme-class soundproofing, i.e. a concrete shell inside a floating concrete shell, and buried preferably on all sides. (and yes, preferably on as much acreage as obtainable.)
It will look ugly and have a WAF of 0%, but soundproofed to the n-th degree.
(Otherwise there is really no point in selling and then rebuilding, is there?)

Right now HT 1.0 blocks 100% of SPL above 200hz, and 115db of noise below 100hz (i.e. not-enough!)
It blocks out drums usage\band practice etc, but not 1.21jigowatts worth of ULF and MBM subs!
Besides: HT1.0 was merely a good-start / first-attempt... 😅

I would really have to hear both to ultimately decide, but sight-unseen... me thinks an array of 24's is easier/better/known/predictable/certain.
 

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I am excited for you guys getting into this epic batch.

I am a little jealous, but I also have to simply acknowledge I am presently either unwilling or unable to give up the space...

But to those dedicated enough to go big, Harbottle or otherwise, I salute you!
 

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I am trying to get the last two leftovers now.
 

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Just curious how much power anyone that has one of these is giving it? Specifically if you are running in a sealed configuration? Does anyone know if this set up would be getting close to their full potential?

10 cu sealed box
Running each one with 2400 watts from a SpeakerPower SP2-4800-HT

Would it be advisable to move up to the SP2-8000-HT and give them each 4000w? Would you need a 20 amp wall outlet to run that much power to them?
 

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I really wish i could but i am already sitting on a pair of hs-24's that have yet to see use. I sure hope i can get back to work and finish the wifes must do list before i start a theater soon.
 

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The sale is now closed and the final schedule details are being hammered out.
For last minute customers, contact me via email at [email protected] to see if we have any extra room on the build and for current pricing.

I want to thank @Gorilla Killa for getting on it and starting up this great buy. All the participants are top tier people and I am thankful that you all honored your word on getting what is truly the deal of the century.

For anyone that is in need of enclosures! We now have a M24!
26 wide, 20 deep, 36 tall.
Raw baltic
Mitered construction
Passive
Well braced
Speakon Connection (cab and cable)
Feet
Screws for feet
Polyfil lined
Sanded and prepped for finishing
Adhesive 2x2 inch badge
Nathan and I have worked the design into super tight tolerances on the joints which has increased the joint stiffness by a big margin. This will allow a round-over on the corner up to 5/8 inch max to be done at your own discretion.

Contact us at the above email address for pricing and shipping.

Thank you all,
Cody
The Harbottle Audio Company.
 
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