That varies, bedo. For a full calibration, some people charge $270. I just want my grayscale calibrated, so that should be a lot less. I've been quoted $80, by recent ISF graduate and that is who I think I'm going to go with.
Has no one else here considered this, or had it done?
I had my DVTV caligrated for 250.00. BTW, Colorfacts can now be rented for 30 days for 300.00, so you might want to consider doing it yourself. The hardest past is simp[ly getting into the service menu and knowing what values to adjust.
I am currently scheduled to get my Sim2 HT200 DLP calibrated next week. The charge for DLP calibration is $400. It does seem a little steep but I have about 450 hours on it and have never had it calibrated.
Bob, the guy I talked to is a relatively recent graduate so he's willing to cut me a really good deal. I've heard another ISF tech say that the more he calibrates, the better he gets, which means someone just starting out might not have the greatest skills, but still I figure it would be better than going with the factory default settings (plus I can't afford the prices you listed right now.) Do you think I'm right? About an inexperienced ISF tech calibrating grayscale better than the factory default settings? He's going to work with a color analyzer, I think, and a laptop...
I think having an inexperienced Tech do your grayscale is fine. When I was a new calibrator it took me a long time to get things correct. What used to take me 10+ hours I can now do in 3-4. Familiarity with a display is a big factor. Searching through service manuals to find the info you need, tweeks that aren't mentioned in the manual, etc. I'd say go for it.
BTW, if he needs help he should register on www.digitalfilmforum.com as an ISF tech and can get info from the top calibrators in the country.
The price does not seem unreasonable especially if it is being done by a top calibrator which gets a premium price for their services or includes more than one input i.e. DVD, HDTV.
I calibrated my greyscale using SMART III software.
One thing that you should know before you get someone to do your greyscale is that it will change as the bulb ages so it isn't a one time thing where it'll be perfect for the rest of the bulb/pj's life.
I have notcied my z1 has changed over the last little while and I should calibrate it again but I am just too lazy and don't think it is really worth doing right now.
Bob - the ISF guy asked me about the service menu settings - I know some of them from reading about them on the forum, but the rest are a mystery. How can I - or he - find a list of Z1 service settings?
rlindo - you should know this, since you calibrated yours. What are the Z1 service menu options?
Would you care to share your individual grayscale settings? I know they will differ per individual projector and viewing conditions, etc, but I'm curious.
And how many settings did you need to know to use SMART? Just bias and gain, or did you have to use gamma settings too?
The X1 and 4800 can be calibrated. I have one and it has the ability to be calibrated. I also know you can calibrate the Panny 300, the Piano series, Sony HS-10, Sharp Z90, Infocus LS-110, NEC HT 1000. Now various PJs can be tweaked more than others but all the ones I mention benefit from calibration. There's probably more that can be calibrated which I am not familiar.
I haven't worked on a Z1 so I don't know the codes or how to enter the service menu. If a calibrator can get into the service menu there is a good chance he'll be able to figure out what the codes do.
I always recommend 100 hours on the bulb before doing a calibration. After this initial break in period the bulbs wear much more gradual until they get near their rated life span where they drop off quickly.
Gray if you have a certified ISF tech new or not go for it. He has or should have thousands of dollars of equipment *color-meter etc* and will set tracking and temperature for your GS which is more important than anything else you can do for your projector. He'll probably go even further than you think to make you happy.
$80 is a real bargain, jump on it and you'll learn a bunch and have lot's of fun.
1-3 do the bias. I think 1 is red, 2 is green and 3 is blue. 2 might be blue and 3 might be green though.
7-9 are the gains. same pattern as the bias controls so 7 is red, etc.
10-12 are the gammma controls. the Gamma is weird because the more you decrease the value the more you increase that colours' gamma. So if you need to decrease the red gamma you need to increase the #10 value.
I don't have my values handy but even if I did they wouldn't matter to anyone else who owns a Z1. No need to waste your time checking out the values. I am quite certain my values would look messed up on other peoples' pjs.
For what it's worth, I recommend SMARTIII. It's a nice little piece of calibration software to have. The image was visibly improved after using it.
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