Has anyone mounted a project to the ceiling, but with the projector upside down? Or I should say... mounted to the ceiling but in the coffetable mounted position. The reason I am asking is because I have used tubes that would benefit from flipping the project over and using the opposite side phosphor area. The green tube is very warn are the bottom, but much less burned at the top. I would like to flip the projector over and project 16X9 on the top (now bottom when flipped) of the phosphor. I know the tubes point down slightly, but I see there are a bunch of adjustments. I have a B1208.
Has anyone mounted a project to the ceiling, but with the projector upside down?
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I thought about the same thing for the same reason.
The angle on the tubes is substantial - about 14 degrees on my projector.
Given that throw angle my projector would need to be mounted at a 28 degree angle to end up pointing at the same place. At 40" long this would result in a 21" height difference between the front and back. After the first 5 inches or so the back would run into the ceiling so I'd have 16" of drop beyond what I have now. The PJ is 15" high which would put the bottom 65" off the ground. I'm 70" tall.
Obviously the resulting drop would put the projector closer to the screen center and reduce the angle needed although it would still be problematic. Especially with a hushbox.
Depending on how your neck boards are connected to the rest of the projector (mine has thin flat cables that couldn't be twisted) you might have better luck rotating the tubes.
The angle on the tubes is substantial - about 14 degrees on my projector.
Given that throw angle my projector would need to be mounted at a 28 degree angle to end up pointing at the same place. At 40" long this would result in a 21" height difference between the front and back. After the first 5 inches or so the back would run into the ceiling so I'd have 16" of drop beyond what I have now. The PJ is 15" high which would put the bottom 65" off the ground. I'm 70" tall.
Obviously the resulting drop would put the projector closer to the screen center and reduce the angle needed although it would still be problematic. Especially with a hushbox.
Depending on how your neck boards are connected to the rest of the projector (mine has thin flat cables that couldn't be twisted) you might have better luck rotating the tubes.
I may get similar results by just projecting my 16X9 image at the top of the phospur area. But I know flipping the tubes upsidedown would give a better result if possible. I do know that there is a notch in the tubes made for them to sit in the frame right side up.
Thanks for the input
Thanks for the input
Wait... I was just thinking... I have been thinking of mounting my projector on the back wall on it's end shooting the image towards the ceiling. Then I would mount a mirror at a 45 degree angle in front of the tubes to reflect the signal forward. I can mount the projector table top and change the angle of the mirror to account for any angle problem.
Anyone try this? The projector has front/rear, top/bottom mounting settings. I'm guessing I would set up the projector as bottom mounting rear projection (to account for the mirroring effect)?
Anyone try this? The projector has front/rear, top/bottom mounting settings. I'm guessing I would set up the projector as bottom mounting rear projection (to account for the mirroring effect)?
When mounting a projector, you have to think about the adjustments.
If you put it on the ceiling the way you first mentioned, you might not be able to get to the lens focusing adjustments.
With your second method, I think you'll find that you will need a very large mirror. Having that large of a reflective surface will also be distracting while watching, as you will most likely see reflections from the screen from the seating position.
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If you put it on the ceiling the way you first mentioned, you might not be able to get to the lens focusing adjustments.
With your second method, I think you'll find that you will need a very large mirror. Having that large of a reflective surface will also be distracting while watching, as you will most likely see reflections from the screen from the seating position.
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Unless you like to sit _very_ close it's not going to work in most situations. CRT throw is usually about 1.4 screen widths; which means the projector needs to overlap where you're sitting. Floor-mounting would add about 4' to the throw, meaning you'd need to sit 4' closer to not be in the same place.
| Originally posted by Brankie Wait... I was just thinking... I have been thinking of mounting my projector on the back wall on it's end shooting the image towards the ceiling. Anyone try this? The projector has front/rear, top/bottom mounting settings. I'm guessing I would set up the projector as bottom mounting rear projection (to account for the mirroring effect)? |
The room is 16' deep and I want the rear seats away from the rear wall about 18" anyways. The projector pointing up will reflect off of a mirror directly above it, so the throw should be about 15', giving me about a 10.5 foot wide screen. I was targeting a 9-10' screen, so this size is about right. I want the front persons eyes at about 11' and the rear at about 14'... so this is right on.
I would mount the projector as a ceiling mount as far as physical location.
The mirror mounted directly above the tubes will be about the same size as the tubes (24" X 8"). I would contain the projector and the mirror so you would not be able to see the mirror unless you get up and look back.
I would mount the projector as a ceiling mount as far as physical location.
The mirror mounted directly above the tubes will be about the same size as the tubes (24" X 8"). I would contain the projector and the mirror so you would not be able to see the mirror unless you get up and look back.
Wouldn't a htpc help here? You could run a 4:3 ratio and use something like Zoom Player to position the 16:9 image where the tubes are in better shape. (You'd need to make sure ZP does this as I haven't used it and am going on memory from the time we did a ZP/H3D htpc comparison.) The Holo3Dgraph also allows this. Used H3Ds sell on Ebay from time to time for $350-400 and the computer hardware needn't be cutting edge as a PIII 600 or so with 256 megs of ram is adequate.
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