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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my DVE today. Calibrating black level was easy and made a noticeable improvement (58 is my new brightness setting).


I'm finding it impossible to calibrate green and blue to the supplied filters. I have red pretty much right on but I can't get blue perfect and green is way off. The best settings I could obtain are red 60, green 80 and blue 100. The


Any hints or tips? Should I mess with color and tint settings at all or do the RGB settings basically replace those? I was playing with tint and could see basically no change.


What color temp. setting do you all use? I had been using warmest but am now trying warm since that is supposed to be 6500 K.
 

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I'm also having this problem. I just received my copy of DVE, and calibrated brightness & contrast (after a bit of head scratching). Of course, I ended up using the same numbers I achieved from a THX Optimizer!


I was really interested in DVE for the color calibration. However, I cannot seem to achieve the desired results using the color filters. Like you, red is spot on (with RBG set to 50 for each), but I have not been able to achieve usable color settings that satisfy the blue and green tests.


Has anyone resolved this issue? Maybe I'm just using it wrong. Of course, DVE has such robust and crystal clear instructions :rolleyes: Maybe it was supposed to be a two disc set...


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I gave it another try awhile ago and got the colors pretty close using the filters. But the resulting image was horrible. My settings were like 12, 60, 18 (those aren't the real numbers but that's how bad they were).


I finally gave up and just left the colors at the defaults, they look fine. I can only assume that the X1 has serious color issues that prevent it from being calibrated perfectly. Either that or those color filters are way way off. Or my eyes have serious color recognition issues. My wife certainly thinks the latter is the case :)


Wasn't the contrast chapter of DVE confusing as hell? I've listened to the critical 30 seconds or so like 5 times and still don't understand it. It just goes by too fast and the guy is talking in one long paragraph without pause. Guess I'll have to write it down and read it over and over.
 

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Yeah - I also just stuck with the default values. The picture looks great, but I was hoping DVE would help achieve a little extra umph.


In the end, I paid $20 for a disk with confusing instructions that gives the same result as the Optimizer on SW2:AotC. But it does have some great space shuttle footage :rolleyes:


Ah well. Live and learn.


Dave
 

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Wow - I'm not alone - I have a X1 and DVE. I started a - Is it me or does DVE Suck thread over in the DVD software form.


I'm wondering if it has something to do with the Optical color syncing in the X1: It's said that the X1 is synced with the white portion or something but that because of the way it's done it never needs to be re-calibrated.



Adjusting the Red, Green, Blue from 0 to 100 has very little effect on my unit, it does have some but it's very minor when looking through the color filter.


Like everyone else I just gave up and left them at 50 too.



Quote: Wasn't the contrast chapter of DVE confusing as hell? I've listened to the critical 30 seconds or so like 5 times and still don't understand it. It just goes by too fast and the guy is talking in one long paragraph without pause. Guess I'll have to write it down and read it over and over.


It was, and after listing 20 time I just have a base understanding, like where he says adjust the contrast so that it just starts to clip at the 100% mark: Where is the 100% mark? I assume it's at the end of the ramp but there are 3 little dots above it like at the 95% mark that looks like their there for a marker and had me thinking that was the 100% mark.


all I have gotten out of DVE is the correct brightness and close on the contrast. - Which did give my picture a much deeper look, If the colors where as easy I think it would look great - But the color Adjustments just don't seem to fit with reality... ie they are all the closest when all are set to 100, and the picture looks like crap. Tint and Color was a failure too.


I was really surprised at having full color control I couldn't make any improvements in color - major bummer. let's hope there is a DVD 1.5 or version 2.0 as this one is very clumsy in it presentation. david
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by rrhomes
It was, and after listing 20 time I just have a base understanding, like where he says adjust the contrast so that it just starts to clip at the 100% mark: Where is the 100% mark? I assume it's at the end of the ramp but there are 3 little dots above it like at the 95% mark that looks like their there for a marker and had me thinking that was the 100% mark.
I couldn't tell where the 100% mark is either. I assume it's the where the little dots are but I don't know. I just adjusted it so each gray bar is distinct. I can also see the 95% box on the other pattern well.
 

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I wish Infocus would add color and tint control to the software on vga. I use a Panasonic xp30 and it looks good, but when I connect my pc, where I can adjust color and tint the picture is just awesome, a real big difference in the colors....Hope they add the adjustments on the next software upgrade!!!
 

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Hi all,


Is the problem people are having with DVE Calibration (RGB) restricted to the X1 or is it just a DVE generalised issue. The PAL version of DVE is due out on the 20th of next month and I was thinking of ordering a copy - may still do so, but will not expect it to be as useful as I had hoped.


Paul
 

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After another 4 hours of adjusting my X1 heres what I can share,


When making adjustment always go in this order at least this is the order of the DVE


Brightness then contrast then color then tint then blue then red then green.


In any adjustment start at 0 and go up, theres a huge difference between 0-50%, while on very small differences at 50-100% so I think starting at the bottom and when the colors first come in line then you've reached your setting. Once you have went through every adjustment. then start over and do then again in the same order with Brightness and contrast and blue being the most important to get accurate - Compromise on Red or Green before you compromise on blue. I was able to do a little better last night then I had before.


Question: their is a gray-scale ramp in chapter 12 (I think) that has two white bar running horizontally on top then there are two black bars ruining horizontally at the bottom with 2 blended gray-scale bars in the middle. Does anyone know how to use this? If the point is to make the two top bars totally white (by upping contrast) and the two bottom bars just pure black(By lowering brightness) then this leaves my settings way different then the other gray-scale ramp - (the ramp that go up in 5% notches that puts me at 48 Contrast and 56 brightness) while the on I'm talking about here puts me at 60 contrast and 48 Brightness ( which I like a ton better) but according to the brightness scale with 0% and 2% and 4% it crushes them all and I can't even see 4% above black. Just wondering if anyone know how to use this gray-scale, the disk said it's for lamp based projectors. Anyone? david
 

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I have wound back both my contrast and brightness (just to taste not to DVE) simply because at night in full dark i found outsite full bright scenes far TOO bright. I have tryed 42 Bright 42 Contrast, not bad and 40 bright 50 contrast and 45,45 OK. proably 45 bright and 48 contrast is best but still a bit bright on day scenes.


92 inch screen viewed at 3.9metres.


D
 

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Another "me too" with reply with the DVE DVD. Did ok with brightness and contrast, but color , especially the green was hard to achieve as DVE instructs. Ended up near the defaults ,just some minor tweaks with the naked eye depending on what the source material is.
 

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From what I understand, the RGB controls are not meant for adusting the

tint and saturation. RGB controls are for adjusting grayscale, for which you

will need instrumentation or a reference source. If you have your X1

hooked up via the vga, you have no tint and saturation controls so there

is really no way of adjusting that unless you have a DVD player which has

those controls or use HTPC.
 

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I wasn't really able to calibrate my X1 with the old VE either.


I never got the colors to match using the blue filter thing. In addtion, my DVD remote is so badly laid out, that I have to keep shifting my eyes to look at it for every button press, which really brought out the rainbows to the point that I trained myself to see them. I was seeing them everywhere for the next movie or 2. I haven't tried again since.
 

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I used DVE to calibrate my Screenplay 4800 and, to my subjective eyes, the result was a spectacular improvement. After the calibration, everything seemed to look right: more natural and subtle colors, less visible screendoor in the picture and the subtitles (at least that's the impression I have), less white crush, and an increased and more balanced palette of nuances from white to black. I don't know if this is a very subjective impression of mine, but that is what I perceive (I bought my first projector five months ago, so I'm not an expert).


When I first watched DVE, I was clueless, but I found some very useful information about color calibration and the difference between gray scale and color decoding. I will provide you with 3 helpful links in later replies to this thread. Since I am a very new forum member, I don’t have the right to post links before I contribute a total of 5 posts (that’s to avoid spam). So I’ll send 2 test/fake posts and then send the links. I hope these links will help. Of course, it goes without saying that there is no spam intended in those links.
 

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DVE seemed to work great on my Epson S1. I can only adjust Color and Tint, not R, G, or B individually, but my red and green are now perfect and the blue has only one 'box' off ever so slightly. I wonder if the filters don't work as well on DLP projectors because of the way they 'throw' the image on the screen?!?


Of course, I could be talking out of my butt here, but doesn't LCD put a 'constant' image on the screen, whereas DLP repeatedly 'flashes' the image up very quickly? Maybe something like that reduces the filter's effectiveness?
 
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