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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1170#post_22794596


Thanks for the reply.

Are you profiling a flat panel display or a projector by chance?

Flat panel LCD. But the i1 Display Pro works for projectors too...
 

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Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.

My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..


 

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Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.

My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..


 

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Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.

My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..


 

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Your method of gray scale calibration is set to 10 point, which doesn't use RGB low or high end values.


If you're using a 10 point calibration, you set the IRE from 0 to 100 (going in 10 point intervals) and just the Red, Green and Blue values using an equivalent gray scale pattern.


@ 0 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 0% gray scale pattern.

@ 10 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 10% gray scale pattern.

@ 20 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 20% gray scale pattern,

... and so on.


If you want to use the low end or high end stuff, change the method from a 10 point to a 2 point gray scale.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22801065


Your method of gray scale calibration is set to 10 point, which doesn't use RGB low or high end values.

If you're using a 10 point calibration, you set the IRE from 0 to 100 (going in 10 point intervals) and just the Red, Green and Blue values using an equivalent gray scale pattern.

@ 0 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 0% gray scale pattern.

@ 10 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 10% gray scale pattern.

@ 20 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 2% gray scale pattern,

... and so on.

If you want to use the low end or high end stuff, change the method from a 10 point to a 2 point gray scale.

Ahhh i see. Then instead of just adjusting the 80% and 30% like the tutorial says i do it that way. Ill also try settings with the 2 poitand see wich one i get better results.. Thanks so much for the fast reply. And sorry for all those posts, my phone was acting kinda wierd.
 

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10 point is more accurate than a 2 point.


Some people say it's smart to do a 2 point and then do a 10 point to fine tune it further, if your TV takes both into consideration. (Also I typo'd 20% up there.
)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22801187


10 point is more accurate than a 2 point.

Some people say it's smart to do a 2 point and then do a 10 point to fine tune it further, if your TV takes both into consideration. (Also I typo'd 20% up there.
)

Ok so i tried doing the "red" "blue" " green the way you had said and it still didnt catch a diffrence in change of color, it kept reading the same.. Then i set it to a 2 point and tried it that way and it read colors perfectly.. Any suggestions? Or should i just keep it at 2 point??
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro3233  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22802105


Ok so i tried doing the "red" "blue" " green the way you had said and it still didnt catch a diffrence in change of color, it kept reading the same.. Then i set it to a 2 point and tried it that way and it read colors perfectly.. Any suggestions? Or should i just keep it at 2 point??

I had no luck with 10 point on my Moms LG. 2 point dialed in beautifully. This is with a PRO D3 meter, too.



bob
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro3233  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22802105


Or should i just keep it at 2 point??
I'd just keep whatever works.
Looks like spongebob had the same issue. Could just be an LG thing for those models. Don't know!!


Congrats at solving your problem, though!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22802333


I'd just keep whatever works.
Looks like spongebob had the same issue. Could just be an LG thing for those models. Don't know!!

Congrats at solving your problem, though!

Lol.. Thanks for the help, i really do appreciate it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22802110


I had no luck with 10 point on my Moms LG. 2 point dialed in beautifully. This is with a PRO D3 meter, too.

bob
Thanks spongebob ill keep it that way and ill repost tomorrow with results
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22806736


I ordered the i1D3 and it will be here tomorrow. I just have a quick question. Within HCFR, you calibrate the meter using a 30 IRE window...correct?

That's what I do anyway... Don't really know if it's needed.


The process for the i1D3/i1Display Pro that I use is:


1. Start up HCFR

2. Do a new calibration and "click through" all the initial dialog.

3. Start a continuous reading and just let it sit there for 10 minutes.

4. Stop the reading.

5. Close the project and start a new project.

6. Configure for DVD manual.

7. Set to a 30% pattern and "Calibrate Meter".

8. Start calibrating after making sure all the other recommendations are set.


Advanced -> Preferences -> General -> Uncheck "Use measured colors (when available)"

Advanced -> Preferences -> References -> Make sure Color Space is HDTV - Rec 709 with the white point set to D65.

Advanced -> Preferences -> Advanced -> Make sure "Do not use luminance in delta E formula" is checked.


Also, you'll want to make sure you're using the proper CCSS file for your display... (Do a search in this thread for i1d3ccss.exe) I only found out about this recently.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22806882

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22806736


I ordered the i1D3 and it will be here tomorrow. I just have a quick question. Within HCFR, you calibrate the meter using a 30 IRE window...correct?

That's what I do anyway... Don't really know if it's needed.


The process for the i1D3/i1Display Pro that I use is:


1. Start up HCFR

2. Do a new calibration and "click through" all the initial dialog.

3. Start a continuous reading and just let it sit there for 10 minutes.

4. Stop the reading.

5. Close the project and start a new project.

6. Configure for DVD manual.

7. Set to a 30% pattern and "Calibrate Meter".

8. Start calibrating after making sure all the other recommendations are set.


Advanced -> Preferences -> General -> Uncheck "Use measured colors (when available)"

Advanced -> Preferences -> References -> Make sure Color Space is HDTV - Rec 709 with the white point set to D65.

Advanced -> Preferences -> Advanced -> Make sure "Do not use luminance in delta E formula" is checked.


Also, you'll want to make sure you're using the proper CCSS file for your display... (Do a search in this thread for i1d3ccss.exe) I only found out about this recently.

Thank you. What is the reason for doing the first continuous read, closing the program, and then starting it again? I've been (with a different meter) just starting with a new project and beginning the process from there.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22806934


Thank you. What is the reason for doing the first continuous read, closing the program, and then starting it again? I've been (with a different meter) just starting with a new project and beginning the process from there.
You're supposed to let your meters warm up for at least 10 minutes before using them... Though I've read 30 minutes once before, but most say 10 minutes.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22807129

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22806934


Thank you. What is the reason for doing the first continuous read, closing the program, and then starting it again? I've been (with a different meter) just starting with a new project and beginning the process from there.
You're supposed to let your meters warm up for at least 10 minutes before using them... Though I've read 30 minutes once before, but most say 10 minutes.

I had just be letting my old meter warm up on the screen unplugged for 30 minutes. I'll try it plugged in and running though. Thanks.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22807266


I had just be letting my old meter warm up on the screen unplugged for 30 minutes. I'll try it plugged in and running though. Thanks.
Really? That works?


I always thought of "warming" something up as a device or something needing to be on. So, for the meter to be "on", it needs to be reading... I leave it on the screen while I am reading, though. So I guess I'm getting the best of both worlds. Ha.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22807273

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1200#post_22807266


I had just be letting my old meter warm up on the screen unplugged for 30 minutes. I'll try it plugged in and running though. Thanks.
Really? That works?


I always thought of "warming" something up as a device or something needing to be on. So, for the meter to be "on", it needs to be reading... I leave it on the screen while I am reading, though. So I guess I'm getting the best of both worlds. Ha.

Well, I thought it was about getting the temperature of the meter up to meet the temperature of the surface of the screen. So I never thought it needed to be on or plugged in during that period. Who knows! Maybe an expert will chime in!
 

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I just had a great time calibrating my Asus PA246 monitor in User Mode with ColorHCFR. The CMS controls on this monitor are probably better than the Sharp HDTV I sent back. I dialed just about everything in perfectly, even primary and secondary colors. Most grayscale was under dE 3, but IRE 40-46 were 2.4, 2.2, and 3.0 respectively
IRE 10 was 17.5, but I usually never get IRE 10 decent... Wish I could have got EVERYTHING under dE 2, but I did a good job regardless.


Primaries and secondaries were all under dE 1 'cept for Blue and Magenta Blue was dE 4.0, Magenta was dE 1.8


I feel super accomplished tonight, haha.
 
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