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I do not really understand the use of the mask to determine the minimum brightness level of the projector.
As far as I know the mask is nothing more than a surrounding area of the panels' pixels that are turned off, true or is it something else ?
The same happens when hitting Hide, where it's the complete panels that are turned off, still true ?
So will the brightness level only modify the actual remaining image area ? And what will that do to the image pixels if projecting a complete black (0 ire) image ?
That is correct. Using the mask as reference while adjusting Brightness means that input level 16 is adjusted to produce the darkest possible black the panel can produce. It’s similar to using Hide but is easier to compare as you’re comparing the two on the same screen rather than going back and forth with Hide.
 

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Do you say that even if projecting a completely black image where all pixels are 0,0,0 this may not be projected with all panel pixels being turned off ? or that it may depend on the brightness level adjustment ?
 

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Do you say that even if projecting a completely black image where all pixels are 0,0,0 this may not be projected with all panel pixels being turned off ? or that it may depend on the brightness level adjustment ?
That is correct. You can confirm that very easily by turning up the Brightness control.

This is the reason why Brightness control needs to be set optimally, even though people have different definitions of “optimal”.
 

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That is correct. You can confirm that very easily by turning up the Brightness control.
OK, I do get it better now, so far I thought that a black image was projected all pixels turned off, still a lot to learn I guess !

And for the mask pixels or hide, those pixels are truly turned off then regardless of the brightness setting .....
 

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That is correct. You can confirm that very easily by turning up the Brightness control.

This is the reason why Brightness control needs to be set optimally, even though people have different definitions of “optimal”.
Dominic, was I correct (by your definition of optimal) in raising the brightness level as high as possible where it doesn’t show a visible difference between the mask and black? For me that was +1.
 

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Dominic, was I correct (by your definition of optimal) in raising the brightness level as high as possible where it doesn’t show a visible difference between the mask and black? For me that was +1.
With my projector there’s some black crush at setting 0 of Brightness - 1 IRE measures the same as black. At setting 2 the black is still the same as the mask; however, the low end luminance measured higher than the reference level.

I ended up using setting 1, which raises the low IREs very slightly (but not black). Perhaps BBO can do the job more precisely (if applied “correctly”), but it only works with custom curves.
 

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After a new look in HFCR i can se there are two choices related to Oled.
- LED OLED (EDR for OLED created with primaries R, G, B, W)
- WRGB OLED (LGB7) (2017))


Anyone who knows the difference between these two? Because my screen is the 2016 model, i assume I should use the first alternative?
Hi all, Long time follower. I just bought i xrite pro plus and Im currently trying to calibrate an LG OLED C6 (2016) with the Spears UHD pattern disc. This endeavor is way more complicated than I had planned for. I'm still going page by page in this forum and was wondering if anyone had come up with an answer for that question? Is the non- refresh display" option better than the oled ones?

Thank you in advance! I have like a 20% idea of what im doing
 

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I just bought i xrite pro plus and Im currently trying to calibrate an LG OLED C6 (2016) with the Spears UHD pattern disc. This endeavor is way more complicated than I had planned for. I'm still going page by page in this forum and was wondering if anyone had come up with an answer for that question? Is the non- refresh display" option better than the oled ones?
Searching the thread returns the reply from the master himself:
So in the display type, with that moved into the color folder, I can now choose OLED LG B7 as the type instead of non-refresh, but is that still good when I have a 2016 LG C6? That's going to be better than non-refresh?
 

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Searching the thread returns the reply from the master himself:
Hey, thank you! I tried to find if there was a way to search key words within a thread but the "custom search" bar, in the upper right corner, seems to take me outside of the threads. I will continue to navigate through the thread. excited to be a part of this community.
 

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Hi everyone I would like ask for a help. What option should I select on HCFR to calibrate in SDR/Bt2020? There three options Rec2020, 2020/P3, 2020/Rec.709 plus another DCI-P3. Which one? Plus what patterns should I use for SDR2020 the same as HDR2020? I am new and confused please give me an hand I would really enjoy my JVC x570 at its best or close. Thank you very much
 

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Hi everyone I would like ask for a help. What option should I select on HCFR to calibrate in SDR/Bt2020? There three options Rec2020, 2020/P3, 2020/Rec.709 plus another DCI-P3. Which one? Plus what patterns should I use for SDR2020 the same as HDR2020? I am new and confused please give me an hand I would really enjoy my JVC x570 at its best or close. Thank you very much
I think the idea is to do regular SDR calibration (with regular SDR patterns) aiming for a straight power law gamma of 2.4 and a P3 color gamut. Assuming your projector has primaries that can cover most or all of P3, select 2020 P3 (as agenor recommended the first time you asked this question here ten days ago). I haven't tried this personally but it seems like this is the best way to start.
 

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Can HCFR be used to validate Dolby Vision? My Sony TV has a Dolby Vision Bright and Dolby Vision Dark picture mode. I would like to sweep the greyscale and see which of these modes produces the most accurate luminance tracking. The Bright mode was added because people complained about dark Dolby Vision, so I would assume Dark is accurate luminance curve, and Bright has some sort of boosted gamma and contrast? I tried sweeping them with my Spears and Munsil disk with my player set to Dolby Vision, but the results were very odd (DV Bright 50% diffuse white 195nit!?!?), so I am not sure if Dolby Vision greyscale luminance curve should rwad the same on Calman when sweeping in ST2084 workflow. My Home version has no DV workflow, so wondering if I can use HCFR to accurately test Dolby Vision tracking using the disk for manual 20 point target patterns.

Paul
 

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Can HCFR be used to validate Dolby Vision? My Sony TV has a Dolby Vision Bright and Dolby Vision Dark picture mode. I would like to sweep the greyscale and see which of these modes produces the most accurate luminance tracking. The Bright mode was added because people complained about dark Dolby Vision, so I would assume Dark is accurate luminance curve, and Bright has some sort of boosted gamma and contrast? I tried sweeping them with my Spears and Munsil disk with my player set to Dolby Vision, but the results were very odd (DV Bright 50% diffuse white 195nit!?!?), so I am not sure if Dolby Vision greyscale luminance curve should rwad the same on Calman when sweeping in ST2084 workflow. My Home version has no DV workflow, so wondering if I can use HCFR to accurately test Dolby Vision tracking using the disk for manual 20 point target patterns.

Paul
HCFR is not limited to any specific workflows. I don’t see why you can’t use it to “validate” Dolby Vision greyscale, which follows the same ST.2084 EOTF as HDR10.

You need an external pattern source as HCFR can’t generate DV patterns.
 

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HCFR is not limited to any specific workflows. I don’t see why you can’t use it to “validate” Dolby Vision greyscale, which follows the same ST.2084 EOTF as HDR10.

You need an external pattern source as HCFR can’t generate DV patterns.
Thank you...I assumed as much...on my Spears and Munsil disk, should I select the MaxCLL (1000) that matches the MaxCLL in the HCFR settings?

Paul
 

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Hi guys, is there any way to do anything like this with HCFR/ArgyllCMS please: youtu.be/nrq3fFUFhds?t=2007

Possibly with the sensor in a corner and a small Argyll dispcal window underneath?

custom 'Color Space Settings' found at the bottom of this page do help but I'm hoping to be able to lower dE even further: https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/nu7300/settings

Thanks for any insight
 

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If I set my color space to REC709 (75%), do I need to set the generator config intensity to 75% or leave at 100% since color space is set at 75%?
 

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Is there any way to close a full-screen pattern window in progress? IIRC keyboard key used to work in the old versions?

But then again I find it more convenient to run a small floating window as measurements are updated in real-time so I don't have to wait for the whole process to finish in order to discover how it's going :)

Would also love to know what "delta xy", "delta L" and "Y target" are for primaries/secondaries but can't find any infos in the manual? Should I only aim for lowest dE and disregard them?

I've got fairly good dE measurements for primaries/secondaries:



Yet I miss quit a bit of red and blue gamut coverage:

Does that mean that missing tints are clipped?

Thanks!
 

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Would also love to know what "delta xy", "delta L" and "Y target" are for primaries/secondaries but can't find any infos in the manual? Should I only aim for lowest dE and disregard them?


Thanks!
If you are talking about what they mean, the delta xy is calculated from where your measured points lie in relation to the primary and secondary colors specified in the program's colorspace settings. Y target and delta L are calculated from your actual 100% White measurement in the former, and color measurements compared to the calculated targets in the latter.

If you're seeing low Y numbers or color clipping, you can try bumping up the main color control 1 click. This can also happen if your 100% White luminance is higher than the rest of the colors can reach. In displays, color luminance and saturation are linked, so adjusting one impacts the other. Another thing to try is patterns with 75% saturation and 75% stimulus. These are closer to actual content and are easier for the display to meet. Remember that CMS controls only adjust a single point - specified by the software - for each color. The rest will depend on the linearity of the display, which in most cases is iffy at best.
Because gray scale does affect the colors, especially secondaries, it's always best to do grayscale before CMS adjustment.
 

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Is there any way to close a full-screen pattern window in progress? IIRC keyboard key used to work in the old versions?
Use the Windows Alt-Tab to switch back to the main window and click on the Stop icon.

Would also love to know what "delta xy", "delta L" and "Y target" are for primaries/secondaries but can't find any infos in the manual? Should I only aim for lowest dE and disregard them?
The ultimate objective is to get the lowest dE, but delta-xy and delta-L provide additional details on what’s contributing to the dE. If your TV’s CMS provides H-S-L controls for each colour, use L to minimize delta-L and H-S to minimize delta-xy. The CIE diagram would further show you whether H or S needs to be adjusted, and in which direction. However, with many TVs there are interactions between them so you need to iterate.
 
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