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But if you cant see flashing 17 bars and maybe 18 and 19 bars too you get black crush, your contrast be higher but you loose a lot of detail in dark areas.
I think if the tv/projector can't display 17 bar without keep its native black level than these displays are bad.
It's up to you what decision you will take when you experience difficulty.

I haven't said to clip your near black but set your near black without lifting your native black level.
 

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Hi, so if one is watching a Blu-ray movie during the afternoon in a living room with only window curtains showing some light to pass through, is it preferably to use SDR Day then or go with SDR Night?
If the 'Night' calibration looks to you as 'low-luminance', then switch to 'Day' calibration.
 

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Yes, and if the "correct process" is not possible (for numerous valid reasons) then there are other "next best" processes that can be followed that are significantly better than no process.

My point is simply, there are perfectly valid reasons to calibrate from the lens, when calibrating from the screen is simply not possible.

Also, gamma calibration from the lens is very accurate for another example.
We can agree that your procedure is ''better than nothing''.

But users who want to calibrate their home projector at their place, when they will invest for a meter, have to start with a colorimeter, not with Spectro.

If they want to improve the colorimeter readings, then they can invest in a Spectro to create a meter correction table for the colorimeter.

Aiming the projector screen, they have to calibrate.
 

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We can agree that your procedure is ''better than nothing''.

But users who want to calibrate their home projector at their place, when they will invest for a meter, have to start with a colorimeter, not with Spectro.

If they want to improve the colorimeter readings, then they can invest in a Spectro to create a meter correction table for the colorimeter.

Aiming the projector screen, they have to calibrate.
In your experience then, an uncorrected i1D3 reading from the screen is more accurate than an i1 Pro 2 with diffuser from the lens?

From my measurements it didn't seem this way at least. They were both a little off by a similar amount of dE. But I don't have a large amount of testing in this regard.
 

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In your experience then, an uncorrected i1D3 reading from the screen is more accurate than an i1 Pro 2 with diffuser from the lens?

From my measurements it didn't seem this way at least. They were both a little off by a similar amount of dE. But I don't have a large amount of testing in this regard.
The procedure you are doing is useful for your application only, not for recommending that to people at home where they have a projector-screen.

The combination of a source-projector-screen-specific room combination required to be calibrated.

If you change the room or screen, it will require re-calibration.
 

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ply, there ar
It's definitely not pointless.

Some projectors have screen calibrations built in that you can select from for your specific screen material which has been measured.

Also, if you were calibrating a projector locally to sell remotely, how else would you calibrate it for the end user when you do not have access to their room.

I calibrate the projectors that I sell second hand from the lens which is the best way IMO for that end user.

These projectors have upwards of 10dE+ errors stock, and after calibration less then 2dE. A screen is not going to shift the color more than 1-3dE typically, so the result is much better than doing nothing for them.
I am always saying projectors have to be calibrated at their final place.
A lot of light bounces from walls and these lights carry colors of the wall. So the factory calibration or somewhere else place's calibration won't be good. If someone want a calibrated projector it is always need to be calibrated its final place.

But I'm sure your effort results a much more better picture than the out of the box settings.
 

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Well like I was saying. I have done it this way before and when I have had the opportunity to verify the calibration from the screen later, it's not really that far off. Usually not more than 3dE which is generally an acceptable level of calibration.

If you have a black treated room and a neutral material like ST100 the screen and environment does not change the image much at all.
 

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OK.. just getting started here. Initial measurements done with v3.5.1.4. Before I continue I wanted to make sure my sensor configs are right. Epson 5050UB, Silverticket screen, X-Rite i1Pro

Display type: Projector
Reader type: Display
Observer type: Default
Sensor Matrix: Defaults.

My CIE looks horrible so glade I decided to go down this route. Manual basic calibration seemed to look decent. Really excited to see this once dialed in.
 

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My CIE looks horrible so glade I decided to go down this route. Manual basic calibration seemed to look decent. Really excited to see this once dialed in.
How “terrible” is the CIE? What are you comparing it with?
 

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Well that's a fair point. I don't know what im doing so I guess my interpretation of horrible is pretty skewed. I am comparing it to what reference should be.
 

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Well that's a fair point. I don't know what im doing so I guess my interpretation of horrible is pretty skewed. I am comparing it to what reference should be.
It depends on the colour profile used for the measurements. Some of the profiles have gamuts close to DCI-P3.
 

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If the color space is the same, then Rec709, D65.

So is choosing Projector correct for the display type? I have read many say choose LCD regardless. If LCD, which one as there are 6 to choose from.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 

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If the color space is the same, then Rec709, D65.

So is choosing Projector correct for the display type? I have read many say choose LCD regardless. If LCD, which one as there are 6 to choose from.
No, the display type is based on the light source, so Projector is the right choice.
 

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Is it necessary to do the 100% white vs red luminance measure to set red 21% of white if you have a tv with full cms HSL capabilities? Why im asking is that at 100% my TV's cms is a bit off, so what's the point in doing this 21% thing at 100%windows if we then go and do all the cms adjustments on a 75%window ?
 

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Is it necessary to do the 100% white vs red luminance measure to set red 21% of white if you have a tv with full cms HSL capabilities? Why im asking is that at 100% my TV's cms is a bit off, so what's the point in doing this 21% thing at 100%windows if we then go and do all the cms adjustments on a 75%window ?
That approach might have been necessary for very old versions of HCFR, but all recent versions calculate the required luminance values automatically.
 

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That approach might have been necessary for very old versions of HCFR, but all recent versions calculate the required luminance values automatically.
Thanks Dominic. So we should just leave the colour at its default setting and do all CMS adjustments on the individual colours using the colour saturation checker patterns ensuring that the 75% levels are most accurate?

Also, do you have a simple explanation on how to interpret the HSV bays while doing CMS calibrations? I can't seem to figure out what they are supposed to represent and which adjustments affect which bar?
 

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Also, do you have a simple explanation on how to interpret the HSV bays while doing CMS calibrations? I can't seem to figure out what they are supposed to represent and which adjustments affect which bar?
It’s best to select the view that matches the controls on your display; e.g., if your display uses RGB controls for CMS, then select that view in HCFR, same for displays using HSL controls.
 

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It’s best to select the view that matches the controls on your display; e.g., if your display uses RGB controls for CMS, then select that view in HCFR, same for displays using HSL controls.
Mine has hue saturation and luminance controls for each colour, but I can't seem to work out what the bar levels represent as any movement doesn't seem to relate to the adjustments in making?
 

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OK.. I think I have grayscale done. Before I keep going, is this good, bad... Looks much better to me.
 

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OK.. I think I have grayscale done. Before I keep going, is this good, bad... Looks much better to me.
The RGB balance has been improved, but for greyscale calibration you need to use the “w/Gamma” option (right-click on the RGB graph and select).
 
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