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I figured it out, had something to do with 3.5.2.

I uninstalled 3.5.2, installed 3.5.1.4, re-installed 3.5.2 in the same directory as 3.5.1.4 and it now works.
 

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I just tried 3.5.2 and did not encounter this issue. The only problem with 3.5.2 is that there's a long initial delay when opening a file.
Merry Christmas. I think you asked for the following 3.5.1.7 awhile back. I just was too lazy to put it on Google Drive for people to download. Enjoy (and please tag whoever did 3.5.2 so that they can possibly work with this one to develop it also)!
 

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Is the i1Display Studio supported by HCFR?

My understanding is that it’s the same hardware as the i1Display Pro just slower and comes with limited X-Rite software. What are the limitations it will have with HCFR?

I won’t be calibrating a ton and it will just be LCD screens most likely without hdr.
 

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Is the i1Display Studio supported by HCFR?

My understanding is that it’s the same hardware as the i1Display Pro just slower and comes with limited X-Rite software. What are the limitations it will have with HCFR?

I won’t be calibrating a ton and it will just be LCD screens most likely without hdr.
I believe it’s just a slightly updated version of the Colormunki display, which works fine with HCFR.
 

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Hi guys, long time since I've been here or done any calibrating but looking for some advice if possible...

Oddly enough with Liquidtouch posting above - I've just bought an i1 Display Studio to replace my 10 year old i1, which still worked fine, I just decided its accuracy was probably well out by now! It does indeed work fine with the HCFR software and in-fact X-Rites own software doesn't seem to run on my old laptop I use to calibrate...

Anyway - I calibrated my new LG GL850 27" monitor, aimed for 2.4 Gamma as black levels aren't great so wanted to make sure it had enough "punch", adjustments are limited but seemingly manageable. All seems fine (as it did when I tried with my old i1) but I'm having an issue with colour. When calibrated all looks very good on the measurements but the reality is the colours look very muted, definitely not correct by eye (Red & Green saturation turned down from 50 to around 30 for calibration) and Caucasian skin tones look pale with some yellow banding - this was true when I first tried it with the old i1 as well.

It's been a fair few years since I tried this so I'm obviously missing something, the software seems to recognise the meter fine, knows it's different to the old one, calibrating on REC709 HD from an old Blu-Ray colour pattern disk I burned (from here from memory), source is an Xbox Series X and as far as I can tell the settings on that are fine. The monitor only allows RGB adjustment and you can see from the colour chart the secondary colours are still showing very strong despite the "perfect" primaries, I imagine they are a lot nearer correct in reality than the adjusted RGB values...

Any ideas at all? Help is much appreciated! Images attached...

Cheers,

Jim.
3062139
3062140
3062141
3062142
3062144
 

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You may have to just live with it. Color saturation and luminance are linked to a large degree and depending on the display's primaries and their luminance at full throttle you may not be able to hit both saturation and luminance targets.
 

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You may have to just live with it. Color saturation and luminance are linked to a large degree and depending on the display's primaries and their luminance at full throttle you may not be able to hit both saturation and luminance targets.
Thanks for the reply! :) I'm just finding it odd as the display is capable, well reviewed and calibrated well by those reviewers so I'm presuming I've got a setting wrong somewhere (in the calibration set up rather than the monitor itself) - the base RGB settings of the monitor are at 52/50/52 and then there are separate controls for hue and saturation (R = 59/26, G = 35/29, B = 50/50) these seem to have little bearing on the overall output/gamma/colour temp etc. and there's plenty of headroom to push the colours back up, I can certainly make them look a little more natural by eye by adding 10 or so to saturation (which doesn't seem to do much to the greyscale luminance values) but that kind of misses the point about calibrating accurately. Everything else looks great. :\
 

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Hi guys, long time since I've been here or done any calibrating but looking for some advice if possible...

Oddly enough with Liquidtouch posting above - I've just bought an i1 Display Studio to replace my 10 year old i1, which still worked fine, I just decided its accuracy was probably well out by now! It does indeed work fine with the HCFR software and in-fact X-Rites own software doesn't seem to run on my old laptop I use to calibrate...

Anyway - I calibrated my new LG GL850 27" monitor, aimed for 2.4 Gamma as black levels aren't great so wanted to make sure it had enough "punch", adjustments are limited but seemingly manageable. All seems fine (as it did when I tried with my old i1) but I'm having an issue with colour. When calibrated all looks very good on the measurements but the reality is the colours look very muted, definitely not correct by eye (Red & Green saturation turned down from 50 to around 30 for calibration) and Caucasian skin tones look pale with some yellow banding - this was true when I first tried it with the old i1 as well.

It's been a fair few years since I tried this so I'm obviously missing something, the software seems to recognise the meter fine, knows it's different to the old one, calibrating on REC709 HD from an old Blu-Ray colour pattern disk I burned (from here from memory), source is an Xbox Series X and as far as I can tell the settings on that are fine. The monitor only allows RGB adjustment and you can see from the colour chart the secondary colours are still showing very strong despite the "perfect" primaries, I imagine they are a lot nearer correct in reality than the adjusted RGB values...

Any ideas at all? Help is much appreciated! Images attached...

Cheers,

Jim. View attachment 3062139 View attachment 3062140 View attachment 3062141 View attachment 3062142 View attachment 3062144
What picture mode are you using to display the patterns? The monitor has wide-gamut and forcing the primary colours to Rec709 will throw off the colours.
 

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What picture mode are you using to display the patterns? The monitor has wide-gamut and forcing the primary colours to Rec709 will throw off the colours.
Just using the default "Gamer 1", avoiding the sRGB modes and the like. Display dimming off. The test pattern disk is the one I made from here 10 years ago and only a DVD, could that be a factor?
 

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Just using the default "Gamer 1", avoiding the sRGB modes and the like. Display dimming off. The test pattern disk is the one I made from here 10 years ago and only a DVD, could that be a factor?
Gamer 1 mode shouldn’t need such large saturation reductions. Did you measure the saturation sweep?
 

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Gamer 1 mode shouldn’t need such large saturation reductions. Did you measure the saturation sweep?
Not that I'm aware of! I measured greyscale and primary & secondary colours, all readings from those... Looking at the data on the saved file I've got this:

Thanks for the help and info! :)
3062173


Gamer 1 mode shouldn’t need such large saturation reductions. Did you measure the saturation sweep?
 

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Not that I'm aware of! I measured greyscale and primary & secondary colours, all readings from those... Looking at the data on the saved file I've got this:

Thanks for the help and info! :) View attachment 3062173
I was looking the saturation plot (CIE Diagram). This plot only shows the luminance level,
Here’s what rtings measured:
 

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I was looking the saturation plot (CIE Diagram). This plot only shows the luminance level,
Here’s what rtings measured:
Thanks for the info Dominic, I'll take a look and see if I can figure it out, never looked into saturation sweeps before and I'm a few years out of practice... Thanks for the help!
 

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Hi!

I want to claibrate a samsung q60t edge lit tv.
My problem is when I am measuring black level the tv shut off its backlight and shows a totally black 0 nit picture.
If I bring up the brightness test pattern then its clearly see that the tv's black level reproduction is poor.
And if I measure at 17,17,17 rgb code tha black level is poor to.
So how can I measure 0 (16,16,16) to get correct values?
The tv doesn't have locall dimming feature.
 

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Thanks for the info Dominic, I'll take a look and see if I can figure it out, never looked into saturation sweeps before and I'm a few years out of practice... Thanks for the help!
You need to measure points inside the CIE triangle, not just the edge.

All the millions of points inside the triangle are where 99.999% of colors in your content actually fall.

The very edge is actually not all that important compared to all the points inside.

You can see the default measurement empty square dots inside your CIE diagram picture that you posted, but you did not actually measure any of them. You only measured various luminances of white and the gamut edge colors.
 

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You need to measure points inside the CIE triangle, not just the edge.

All the millions of points inside the triangle are where 99.999% of colors in your content actually fall.

The very edge is actually not all that important compared to all the points inside.

You can see the default measurement empty square dots inside your CIE diagram picture that you posted, but you did not actually measure any of them. You only measured various luminances of white and the gamut edge colors.
Thanks for the info SirMaster, I'll give it another look tonight - I've always just ran the Greyscale and Primary + Secondary colour cycles in the past which has seemingly had good results and that's what I used for this. I'll test the full saturations now I know there's a menu option for that!
 

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I have the same problem but as of right now using my CMS I can either have a low dE for 75% or for 100% (below .6) but then the other goes above 3. My question is, is it better to opt for an in-between adjustment that has both 75% and 100% below 2?
 

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Your display's color output is non-linear, otherwise 75% would be good when 100% is. Unfortunately, this is very common. Since most actual content is at that 75% and below level, you should probably adjust at 75% and let 100% fall where it may.
 

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Your display's color output is non-linear, otherwise 75% would be good when 100% is. Unfortunately, this is very common. Since most actual content is at that 75% and below level, you should probably adjust at 75% and let 100% fall where it may.
Thanks. I’m going to play with the color setting first before doing CMS as going CMS first, I need to add 32 red to red and 27 green to green to get it right. Maybe that will help the lower saturations as they are also lacking.
 

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Imagine each color as a nylon thread that stretches as you increase color. Some of these stretch the same amount all along their length and some don't, so their thickness (light output) changes from what it should be. And some don't stretch as far at all, called clipping. That's what you can run into when calibrating at 100%. Today's wide gamut displays are better at the 100% levels, but that doesn't mean they are any more linear below that.
 
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