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Green is way oversaturated in the HDR calibration. Keep in mind you cannot stretch the gamut beyond the display's gamut limits; attempting to increase the saturation will only make things worse.
How could this be corrected? On my tv, hdr cms only allows me to adjust the 100% saturation level. Yeah i noticed the recorded levels were very close to each other. Oh, the colour measurements on this are the default settings, the only thing i did on this was the white balance. Apart from green, did the rest ok?
 

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How could this be corrected? On my tv, hdr cms only allows me to adjust the 100% saturation level. Yeah i noticed the recorded levels were very close to each other. Oh, the colour measurements on this are the default settings, the only thing i did on this was the white balance. Apart from green, did the rest ok?
Typically there is only one CMS adjustment for each colour. Why are you saying it’s only for 100% saturation?
 

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When you only have 1 saturation control you need to just balance the saturation sweep out as best you can. Keep adjusting the saturation value, but then keep checking the sweep at a few points as you adjust.

I would prioritize dialing in the 75% saturation point and worry less bout the accuracy of 100% sat or 50% and under sat.

You need a 3DLUT to do better generally.
 

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Typically there is only one CMS adjustment for each colour. Why are you saying it’s only for 100% saturation?
For sdr, i have the option to adjust colours at different saturation levels . . Or i think thats what it means lol, so for red example, i can change it to red 50%, then 75% and finally 100%, when doing hdr its locked 100% only.
 

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For sdr, i have the option to adjust colours at different saturation levels . . Or i think thats what it means lol, so for red example, i can change it to red 50%, then 75% and finally 100%, when doing hdr its locked 100% only.
Hi,

On the Samsungs, there usually is one set of CMS controls. All 6 colors have a mix of each of the three primary colors. Red for example defaults to R/G/B 50/0/0. Increasing R increases the brightness of red while changing G and B moves red toward green or blue respectively (as well as adding to the brightness). Increasing both G and B equally will move red in toward the white point (i.e. desaturate it). As Dominic says, you can't increase a color's saturation. So, when you say, there is only 100% saturation available, I assume that you mean the patterns that you're using. What exact patterns are you using off of the Spears and Munsil disc? It may be that they only have 100% saturated with various brightness levels (i.e. 100% saturated at 75% brightness).


--tom
 

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Hi Guys!

I would like to calibrate my Runco Q750i Led projector.
I have an Xrite i1 display pro colorimeter. Which display type should I select within HCFR?
For my previous projectors I always choose projector or refresh display for dlp technologies.
 

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Hi,

On the Samsungs, there usually is one set of CMS controls. All 6 colors have a mix of each of the three primary colors. Red for example defaults to R/G/B 50/0/0. Increasing R increases the brightness of red while changing G and B moves red toward green or blue respectively (as well as adding to the brightness). Increasing both G and B equally will move red in toward the white point (i.e. desaturate it). As Dominic says, you can't increase a color's saturation. So, when you say, there is only 100% saturation available, I assume that you mean the patterns that you're using. What exact patterns are you using off of the Spears and Munsil disc? It may be that they only have 100% saturated with various brightness levels (i.e. 100% saturated at 75% brightness).


--tom
Hi Tom, that makes sense, i thought on my tv when adjusting the colour red in the cms, it has option to select 50%/75% & 100%, i assumed this was different saturation levels, but it being brightness levels makes more sense. I will have another look at the cms and see if i can fix the over saturated greens.

Cheers,

Mike
 

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Hi Tom, that makes sense, i thought on my tv when adjusting the colour red in the cms, it has option to select 50%/75% & 100%, i assumed this was different saturation levels, but it being brightness levels makes more sense. I will have another look at the cms and see if i can fix the over saturated greens.
Hi Mike, I have not seen the menu for the Samsung Q90R (which is the tv you have right?) so its possible that the colorspace menu has new/additional options (perhaps HDR only options) . If you take a snapshot of the menu that has the 50/75/100% options, someone can probably tell you what they are doing.

cheers,


--tom
 

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Hi Mike, I have not seen the menu for the Samsung Q90R (which is the tv you have right?) so its possible that the colorspace menu has new/additional options (perhaps HDR only options) . If you take a snapshot of the menu that has the 50/75/100% options, someone can probably tell you what they are doing.

cheers,


--tom
3115211

3115212


Here are the options i was referring to, i just assumed this were saturation adjustments at various levels, these options are only available after unlocking the cal day/cal night picture presets.

Think im going to give the hdr mode another go, the picture seems to have a really bad red tint, im sure i have not got something set correctly.

If im using the spears and munsil uhd disc for the patterns, should i set the luminance to 1000nits or 4000nits? Also should i change the hcfr preferences to match that luminance level? I.e master MaxL to 4000nits if setting spears to 4000nits?

Basically i just want to try and match the pq as accurately as possible and get the greyscale as good as i can get.
 

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View attachment 3115211
View attachment 3115212

Here are the options i was referring to, i just assumed this were saturation adjustments at various levels, these options are only available after unlocking the cal day/cal night picture presets.
Hey Mike,

Ok - those are different settings than on my Samsung :)

From looking at it, I would guess those are saturation levels. So, 100% would mean the end points of the color gamut triangle which the others farther in toward the white point. With that said, you still won't be able to make any of the colors more saturated than what the native gamut of the display can handle. I assume under Color Gamut, you can choose DCI-P3, HD709? Rec.2020? In Samsung's world, I'm not too sure what that sub-setting does within the Color Space setting except set the default i.e. where you start from when you begin to adjust. So, DCI-P3 seems like the right setting for Color gamut. And in order to adjust the 50% and 75% saturation points, you'll need to see if the Spears and Munsil disc contains those patterns for all colors e.g. 75% saturated red at 75% luminance. I believe that you'd then need to calibrate with HCFR by using the color Saturation runs for Rec.2020/P3 color space setting. You'd first need to do a primary/secondary run to get the white measure for the target luminance and then do the saturation measures.

If im using the spears and munsil uhd disc for the patterns, should i set the luminance to 1000nits or 4000nits? Also should i change the hcfr preferences to match that luminance level? I.e master MaxL to 4000nits if setting spears to 4000nits?
I am by no means an HDR expert so others such as Dominic can probably answer better. I would guess that you should use 1000 nits based on what the display seems to be able to do according to Rtings. In HCFR, I assume you'd set Master MaxL to 1000 and Content MaxL to 1000. I am not sure if you want override ant of the other targets under SMPTE 2084.

I will say that you want to get the EOTF gamma and grayscale squared away before doing anything with the color space setting.

cheers,

--tom
 

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Hi guys, apologies if this isnt the right thread but I've tried to do my due diligence and looks around first.
My question pertains to using HCFR in conjunction with an LG OLED C8 and an i1 Display Pro Plus.
When starting a new calibration we are shown the option for Display Type. Ive seen people using WRGB OLED and Non-Refresh. Which one is correct for my display? Thanks!

EDIT: Second thing I'd like to confirm is the RGB Range settings. Using my laptop it should be: GPU: Full (0-255), HCFR: Limited (16-235, Im using the MADvr generator), Black level low (for the tv).
 

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Hi guys, apologies if this isnt the right thread but I've tried to do my due diligence and looks around first.
My question pertains to using HCFR in conjunction with an LG OLED C8 and an i1 Display Pro Plus.
When starting a new calibration we are shown the option for Display Type. Ive seen people using WRGB OLED and Non-Refresh. Which one is correct for my display? Thanks!
Hi,

I looks like others with your display have used WRGB OLED


EDIT: Second thing I'd like to confirm is the RGB Range settings. Using my laptop it should be: GPU: Full (0-255), HCFR: Limited (16-235, Im using the MADvr generator), Black level low (for the tv).
I believe that is correct - the 16-235 "Limited" is sent in a "Full" container via the video card but the display should be told to only expect Limited/Video range. You can usually tell if its off pretty easily due to elevated black levels.

cheers,


--tom
 

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Hi everyone I would like to share the results of my last calibration performed using a display 1 pro and hcfr. Everything looks good excet some colors both for 709 and DCI-P3. I would really appreciate any suggestions to adjust the colors in a better way wherever the error may be too ‘big’. Thank you!
 

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Hi everyone I would like to share the results of my last calibration performed using a display 1 pro and hcfr. Everything looks good excet some colors both for 709 and DCI-P3. I would really appreciate any suggestions to adjust the colors in a better way wherever the error may be too ‘big’. Thank you!
On many JVCs you need to turn on the colour filter to reach the proper hue for Rec709 green (x=0.3, y=0.6). To engage the colour filter you will need to create a custom profile, or download Manni’s Rec-709F profile.
Also, if you're using the Panasonic UB420's SDR/BT.2020 mode, in HCFR you need to set the colour space to Rec2020/P3, not DCI-P3
 

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On many JVCs you need to turn on the colour filter to reach the proper hue for Rec709 green (x=0.3, y=0.6). To engage the colour filter you will need to create a custom profile, or download Manni’s Rec-709F profile.
Also, if you're using the Panasonic UB420's SDR/BT.2020 mode, in HCFR you need to set the colour space to Rec2020/P3, not DCI-P3
Thank you Dominic! Now it makes sense! Just a little request: should I use the import function on autocal to import and add the rec709 profile with filter? So now I have to run both calibrations again: using the customized rec 709 that enables the filter and set hcfr to rec2020/P3 rather than DCI-P3 for the SDR/BT2020, am I correct? Thank you!
 

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Thank you Dominic! Now it makes sense! Just a little request: should I use the import function on autocal to import and add the rec709 profile with filter? So now I have to run both calibrations again: using the customized rec 709 that enables the filter and set hcfr to rec2020/P3 rather than DCI-P3 for the SDR/BT2020, am I correct? Thank you!
Rec709F will likely need a new gamma curve, but Rec2020/P3 may be able to use the same gamma curve as DCI-P3.
 

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Thank you so much Dominic. If I use a rec709 with filter the light output will be reduced right? So to keep the current 60 nits I will have to move the lens aperture. Now it’s set to -4, maybe it will need to be set on 0. Let’s see. I will run a grayscale and double check everything especially the gamma. Thank you again Dominic!
 

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So I uploaded the rec709F file as from Manni’s package. I didn’t hear any click like usually the filter does when enabled. I am not sure I was using the filter and in fact I had the same discrepancies with green and red like when I calibrated starting with the natural mode and standard color profile. Should I hear the sound of the filter or it’s just ‘included’ in the file and not enabled? I am sorry I am totally naive with this stuff. Thank you.
 

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So I uploaded the rec709F file as from Manni’s package. I didn’t hear any click like usually the filter does when enabled. I am not sure I was using the filter and in fact I had the same discrepancies with green and red like when I calibrated starting with the natural mode and standard color profile. Should I hear the sound of the filter or it’s just ‘included’ in the file and not enabled? I am sorry I am totally naive with this stuff. Thank you.
In some cases the new profile wouldn’t work properly until the next time you power up the projector.
 
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