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Ok. Hopefully this shows up right.


These are my before and after files. This is the first full run of doing a before and after. Everything before was just experimenting.


My before and after have the same initial settings. I was trying to stay at 2.28 gamma, but might try again and get to 2.25. I do have 2pt, 10pt. and CMS available. The CMS does not have Luminence though. Just Color and Tint.


Backlight - 50

Contrast - 83

Brightness - 52

Color, Tint, and CMS were left untouched at this point. I have no idea what to do there without having larger Delta errors.


The 2pt. in the after has Rgain (-21), Ggain (0), Bgain (-20), The Cuts were left with exception of BCut +1


Now after this, if I turn on my Local dimming, the grayscale goes to hell and back, but the LG LW5600 needs the LD on for viewing. Without it, it is a washed up gray screen


I know others here would read these graphs and fix the colors and stuff right away, but I am really new and struggling.


Everything looks good on the graphs as far as I can tell, BUT, the colors on the TV after are still looking really bold and deep in an unnatural way. Not sure how to fix that.


Any helpful hints from the pros here? Maybe just a suggestion to put me in the right direction and I can go from there?

ISF2 Before.zip 2k .zip file
ISF2 After.zip 6k .zip file
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eghill1125  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1620#post_23097870


The above graphs are the way my graphs look when I check my grayscale after I turn the local dimming on.


How do I upload my HCFR for people to see? It says I have the wrong format being ChC.?

you can press "ALT" + "PrintScreen" to copy the window to the clipboard, then use a program like IrfanView, and paste, then save the file as a jpeg, bmp, png etc. this file can be uploaded and displayed like you see in my post.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eghill1125  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1620#post_23098232


Ok. Hopefully this shows up right.


These are my before and after files. This is the first full run of doing a before and after. Everything before was just experimenting.


My before and after have the same initial settings. I was trying to stay at 2.28 gamma, but might try again and get to 2.25. I do have 2pt, 10pt. and CMS available. The CMS does not have Luminence though. Just Color and Tint.


Backlight - 50

Contrast - 83

Brightness - 52

Color, Tint, and CMS were left untouched at this point. I have no idea what to do there without having larger Delta errors.


The 2pt. in the after has Rgain (-21), Ggain (0), Bgain (-20), The Cuts were left with exception of BCut +1


Now after this, if I turn on my Local dimming, the grayscale goes to hell and back, but the LG LW5600 needs the LD on for viewing. Without it, it is a washed up gray screen


I know others here would read these graphs and fix the colors and stuff right away, but I am really new and struggling.


Everything looks good on the graphs as far as I can tell, BUT, the colors on the TV after are still looking really bold and deep in an unnatural way. Not sure how to fix that.


Any helpful hints from the pros here? Maybe just a suggestion to put me in the right direction and I can go from there?

ISF2 Before.zip 2k .zip file
ISF2 After.zip 6k .zip file

are these before and after files with the local dimming on or off?


looking at the primaries and secondaries data, delta luma is low across the spectrum, -2.3% yellow to -13.4% blue. You can raise your color control to get an average around the 0% mark.
 

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These were both with LD turned off. I do turn it on after though.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eghill1125  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1620#post_23098441


These were both with LD turned off. I do turn it on after though.

can you post measurements with LD turned on? If you are going to use it, you should be calibrating with it on.
 

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Are you asking just to do the grayscale and colors as is now from these files but have the LD on?

I think that is what you mean and not to try another calibration from zero with it on. I will try to do a run with the LD on tonight when I get home.


Moving my conversation out of here to not hijack this thread. My stuff is more general...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by vega509  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1620#post_23098609


can you post measurements with LD turned on? If you are going to use it, you should be calibrating with it on.

No. Always calibrate with LD off (and use full fields for LCDs). Patterns trigger LD differently than real content and you will never be able to match the two, turn it off and live with whatever LD does to real content. Plasma ABL is the same, never calibrate with patterns that trigger ABL. Hopefully it does not color shift and only affects gamma.
 

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Can someone give me a clarification on this. Using the latest HCFR 3.0.4.2 and using GCD window patterns, I should leave the option under Preferences -> General -> gray levels rounding assumption to unchecked?


And if I'm using AVS HD 709 patterns then I just leave it at the default which is checked?


I tried searching but couldn't get a clear answer. Thanks a bunch to zoyd and john for this HCFR fork!
 

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zoyd or anybody else that knows, I'm using an older Display2 LT with the latest HCFR fork (3.0.4.2) and calibrating a plasma. When I start a new calibration it asks me if I want to use a meter correction matrix, I can either do no correction file or I can use d3_generic_plasma correction.


Am I safe to use this file or is this really only to be used with the newer display3 meters?


I actually calibrated without a correction matrix and with, and to my eyes the grayscale looks correct with the d3_generic_plasma correction matrix.
 

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if the D3 matrix actually gives you more accuracy than no matrix at all you would be lucky I think. I looked at a couple of D2 matrices in the database and they are quite different from the D3. Also, the D2 is not as stable over time.


here was one example:


1.2055 -0.018524 0.010040

-5.6607e-03 1.1403 5.2525e-03

0.011197 -0.013573 1.1991
 

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Thanks again zoyd for the quick response. I did a new calibration without the correction file and it came out pretty good. Accuracy is pretty good, now hopefully my meter hasn't drifted too much. I have kept it sealed in 2 ziploc bags with a desiccant so hopefully not too much drift has occurred.
 

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Yes, the D2/LT matrices have a much larger deviation from unit to unit. Here is the matrix for my six year old LT which has been stored in a low humidity environment. It was profiled recently using my i1 Pro spectrometer and the Samsung D7000 plasma. The deviations are quite low from perfect.


1.088173 -0.000281 0.011300

0.015566 1.077892 0.004213

0.008440 -0.000576 1.098182


Larry
 

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Very encouraging for those of us who tend to keep their colorimeters for a long time!
 

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Probably a dumb question for you guys here, but..


Is the information box in the center of HCFR interactive and real time? I just now seen the drop down after having played with my TV for the past week and never knew there was ways to see this stuff other than the top tabs.


Is the stuff like gamma and luminence in that drop down in real time if I do a continuous read on a 50% gray pattern and make adjustments? I have so many spots on my finished calibration where I am still low on luminence and gamma points go from 2.22 to 2.28 in the same pattern. If these things are real time, I think that might help me make the final 10 point adjustments I would need then.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eghill1125  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1650#post_23111005


Probably a dumb question for you guys here, but..


Is the information box in the center of HCFR interactive and real time? I just now seen the drop down after having played with my TV for the past week and never knew there was ways to see this stuff other than the top tabs.


Is the stuff like gamma and luminence in that drop down in real time if I do a continuous read on a 50% gray pattern and make adjustments? I have so many spots on my finished calibration where I am still low on luminence and gamma points go from 2.22 to 2.28 in the same pattern. If these things are real time, I think that might help me make the final 10 point adjustments I would need then.

can you capture the window you are referring to and mark it up so we can see what you are referring to?
 

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I checked it out when I got home and didn't see any interactive screens. I thought maybe, where the drop down that says comments in the big middle box is, that when you were doing the white balance 10 point that it was maybe in real time. It isn't though.


Well since I used the HCFR for the first time this week, I think I am done for a bit. I have been doing this with my TV for too long now and I am getting dirty looks from the wife. Time to quit trying. I think I have done an OK job for the first time. Here is my final (for now) results with HCFR and the Colormunki Display.


I did nothing with my LG LW5600 CMS settings. They are default still. Not sure what I am trying to accomplish with it. I had Calmans before and it was fairly easy to see the changes, but this time, I am clueless. So I am leaving them the way they were. I also think the Color, Tint, and CMS on my LG have a direct impact on the white balance. They shouldn't, but if I make any changes at all on any of them, my grayscale goes bad on my next run through.


Does anyone see anything that looks like I went wrong anywhere on these graphs? I think they are good, but I really don't know enough to say.


Sorry for the grammar or any spelling errors.. been a long day and night...

Expert 1 3-22-13.zip 5k .zip file


BTW.. Very nice software for what it does. I am very glad to have been on this forum for a long time and able to follow everyones comments and hear about HCFR. Nice job to all involved with it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1650#post_23103605


if the D3 matrix actually gives you more accuracy than no matrix at all you would be lucky I think. I looked at a couple of D2 matrices in the database and they are quite different from the D3. Also, the D2 is not as stable over time.


here was one example:


1.2055 -0.018524 0.010040

-5.6607e-03 1.1403 5.2525e-03

0.011197 -0.013573 1.1991
Hello Zoyd! first thanks for all this! I found today that there was an improved version of HCFR!

Using a probe i1 Display Pro, isd3!

A few days ago I have it and I'm trying to get better day calibration, in my ES7000 LED TV.

What I find most difficult to measure in CIE colors well, because I can not get is well approximated colors.

I wanted to ask, when the HCFR start from scratch! I choose patterns for dvd and when I choose the probe goes down to CHOOSE generic d3 d3 white led and several more, I have to choose one of these for my i1 display pro?

And then when I'm in my tube box, leaving the option of choosing a range, eg white LCD IPS LED (WLED samsung lg), that option is also the I choose? and after all that, I give the Calibrate button?

Sorry for multiple questions and apologize for my English is not very good, I'm from Argentina and I want is to keep improving my calibration, I'm close, but I need to improve the CIE.

And prefencias, advanced, I have to dial in delta and the option to use instead of CIE94 delta luv and formula?

Thank you very much and I hope your answer when you can, so I start again to calibrate.

David.
 

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I would recommend in the probe set-up:


1. non-refresh display

2. do not use meter correction file

3. spectral sample = LCD White LED IPS


do not use CIELUV (leave box unchecked)



cheers
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd  /t/1393853/fork-of-hcfr-started-whats-needed/1650#post_23120139


I would recommend in the probe set-up:


1. non-refresh display

2. do not use meter correction file

3. spectral sample = LCD White LED IPS


do not use CIELUV (leave box unchecked)



cheers
Zoyd thank you very much! in a while I get to calibrate again, with this new version and your suggestion to set my probe.

The box detect user measueres During primary colors, I leave off?

And I leave latency time of 100 ms?

In gamma, gamma display left or left with black display gamma compensation?

By default gamma is 2.22, this is better than 2.0?

To day, I set gamma to 2.0 and for night, 2.4, but for there to day, 2.22 would be better?

Thank you very much for everything
 
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