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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for a component switcher that will be able to pass HD programming (1080i) and HD games (xbox) to my tv without signal degradation. I would also like it to be auto sensing or have a remote control with discrete codes so that my macros would be more efficient (damn sony and their lack of discrete codes). I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the site. Any more?
 

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I have the audio authority 1154, I run component out of my JVC 30K to Ocean Matrix splitter to the 1154 to Faroudja nrs to sony G70, the D Theater high def movies look absolutely pristine from the JVC DVHS. I had it connected without the splitter and switcher and could not tell a difference on my 100" diag 16:9 screen. The auto switching works flawlessly. I found this addition well worth it

joe
 

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Anyone have any cheaper alternatives for component switchers? Auto sensing not required.
 

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Are you OK with a manual component switch? Ie. pressing a button on the front panel (cannot be controlled via remote control) - if so, there are other "passive" component switches which work well and are cheaper than the Zektor (which costs $299).
 

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Psst, what you can do in the mean time is buy a $19 composite video switch. Hook the Y/Pr/Pb to the Red, Yellow and White leads. It's not optimium, but it will work out until you buy a real switch. Plus, if it doesn't work, you can return the $19 switch to your local discount chain no questions asked...
 

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When I was in the market for a component switcher I found some valuable info here on the forum. I think one of the threads stated that mechanical switches don't have the need for high bandwidth passing specs since that only applies to the electronic types, ie auto-sensing, remote controllable types. I think the $19 composite mechanical would work fine based on that information. Obviously, the downside is the need to physically switch the inputs, which if handy is certainly hundreds cheaper than than the electronic switches that are rated high enough for HDTV.

joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is it true that a mechanical switch or y-splitter can pass HD signals with no degradation?
 

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doodoo ; most audio type switchers being used as hdtv switchers ,use components inside rated @50 ohms [jacks,plugs,wire]. This is sufficient for audio or composite video. hdtv requires 75 ohm rated components. The same goes for Y splitters. There is degradation. Just a matter of how much , and how much you actully see.
 

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In other words DooDoo, go buy a mechanical one and find out. Then in the future you can either side with those that have used one and claim they've noticed no difference as opposed to a direct connection.. or you can side with those that claimed they have noticed a difference.


You can always return it if you fall into the latter group.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by ptrubey
Are you OK with a manual component switch? Ie. pressing a button on the front panel (cannot be controlled via remote control) - if so, there are other "passive" component switches which work well and are cheaper than the Zektor (which costs $299).
Yes, that's the sort of thing I'm looking for.

Quote:
Originally posted by kagato
Psst, what you can do in the mean time is buy a $19 composite video switch. Hook the Y/Pr/Pb to the Red, Yellow and White leads. It's not optimium, but it will work out until you buy a real switch.
This is what I am doing now, however the red and white "audio" leads have inferior impedance compared to the yellow "video" lead and I am concerned about signal degradation.
 

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I have a receiver that has "inadequate" bandwidth to properly pass HD and I have found that it is impossible to tell whether the source is hooked up directly or through the "inadequate" receiver.


YMMV.


Mark
 
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