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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all.. does anyone know if this is true about the HD65:


"Another major benefit of this projector is that it allows the picture to be stretched vertically to the full height of 1.78:1 ratio and then by applying Anamorphic Lens you can bring the Academy Standard movies back into 2.35:1 ratio. You don't need an external scaler and which is an extra saving. This process eliminates the annoying horizontal gray bars and brings back the 33% lost resolution and 20% of brightness back into the picture. As a result your picture from 1080P High Definition source will have a Cinema look."


And then.. which is a better deal a if they are the same price?
 

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"then by applying Anamorphic Lens"


Good anamorphic lenses are very very expensive.
 

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First thing I would check is offset to determine where the projector can be placed, particularly how high off the ground it needs to be in relation to the bottom of the image. Being DLP both are very limited in placement.


Lamp life for both on lowlamp mode is 3000hrs, you may want to factor in replacement lamp costs. Lamp life is 50% of lamps still working at 50% or more of original brightness.


My opinion based only on reviews, specs and online manuals, no first hand experience of either projector so I may be completely wrong.


Some wrong information now corrected, thank you reconlabtech.

If anyone else finds any of the following wrong or misleading please join the thread and correct it.


Both have the same darkchip2 720p chip so should be very similar.


Throw ratio. Distance to screen : screen width

Optoma 1.55-1.7:1 should give a bigger image

Mitsubishi 1.59-1.91:1

Both exhausts hot air out the front (cables may still needed to be pluged in the back) so can be placed close to a rear wall.


The Optoma HD65 has a 4xspeed 6segment colorwheel Red/Green/Blue/Cyan/Magenta/Yellow. With Brilliant Color 2 and True Vivid processing. It should give very good color primaries - secondaries, and color graduation. This color wheel is 50% brighter for the same lamp output than traditional Red/Green/Blue wheels due to more efficient use of the lamp light. The Yellow segment enables alot of light at around 580nm wavelength and the Cyan segment a bit of light at 500nm wavelength to be used, that the older design colorwheels can not.


The Mitsubishi has a 4xspeed 7segment colorwheel Red/Green/Blue/White/Red/Green/Blue. It is an older design and uses Brilliant Color 1 processing to set the amount the white segment is used, the white segment gives extra brightness to the image, but this is at the cost of color saturation. The white segment also helps the Mitsubishi 2500:1 contrast, so it will be significantly lower when calibrated. The color of the Mitsubishi with Brilliant Color processing off is reviewed as good. The only advantage of the Mitsubishi color wheel is that it only has to spin at 2x to refresh the colors at 4x, while the Optoma colorwheel has to spin at 4x. Both however have had reports of premature colorwheel failure. You may want to check what warranty they come with for peace of mind. Although you generally only hear from people who have problems so the vast majority of satisfied owners of reliable ones are the silent majority.


The Optoma should have higher contrast. The Optoma quotes 3000:1 contrast without image AI, 4000:1 with image AI controlling the lamp. But the AI requires high lamp mode so more fan noise and reduced lamp life, also it is not always seemless in operation. The Mitsubishi 2500:1 contrast as noted above is partly dependent on using the white segment, so when calibrated it will be lower.


Out of the box the Optoma black level will look better because it uses a different gamma at the bottom of the greyscale, so the difference between bright and dark parts of an image are slightly exagerated. This will also give it the impression of having a higher contrast in most scenes but lower contrast in dark scenes. The gamma is however adjustable so you can make shadow detail more prominent if you wish.


While the Mitsubishi out of the box will have apparantely poorer black levels but better shadow detail due to its gamma. Although again this should be adjustable.


The Mitsubishi should be slightly brighter when calibrated. Note color accuracy and contrast are critical to good image quality and the Optoma should exceed the Mitsubishi on these.


Fan noise on the Optoma is quoted in the low lamp mode as 29dB, but reviewed as a loud 29dB. Mitsubishi is louder 31dB. Each 3dB is a doubling of volume.


Both can do pixel to pixel mapping of a 720p source with no overscan. However the Optoma is reviewed as having a slightly less sharp lens - image at the extreme of its zoom, than the Mitsubishi.


So the Mitsubishi for a slightly brighter, possibly slightly sharper image. Or the Optoma for higher contrast image with better colors. In a room with ambient light maybe the Mitsubishi due to slightly higher brightness. In a room with light control probably the Optoma due to contrast and color.


The Mitsubishi 1500 should be extremely similiar to your Mitsubishi HD1000U. Same darkchip, same colorwheel, same quoted contrast ratio, same brilliant color, same throw ratio, so probably same lens. The only thing different will probably be the size of the white segment on the colorwheel.


Why is your HD1000U giving you fits, is it faulty colorwheel, lamp flickering, dust blobs in optics? Or do you see rainbows?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by reconlabtech /forum/post/15426801


The following review you give has a lot of suppositions about Optoma including trashing their build quality and functionality without any facts linked or qualifying information. Sure, it's your opinion but rather than misguide someone, how about just say YOU prefer the Mitsubishi over the Optoma and let others who own both provide more factual information?

Actually given the choice I would buy the Optoma, due to it having probably much better color and definitely better contrast. Also the shorter throw distance would give a larger image. The only draw back is it may have a less sharp lens, which at typical viewing distance will probably have very little effect. The only advantage the Mitsubishi has is a bit more brightness and the ability to boost this with its white segment. But as I pointed out this is at the cost of color saturation, and the white segment means Mitsubishis claimed contrast is significantly higher than it would otherwise be.


I mention that both Optoma and Mitsubishi have had reports of premature colorwheel failure. People seem to blame the Mitsubishi fails on poor design - testing, the Optoma fails on poor build quality - quality control, for example the recent thread "Optoma Projector Color Issues..." and the thread "Any disadvantages to a higher colorwheel speed" where someone said about Mitsubishi lack of tested reliability.


To malign Mitsubishi a bit more, since you think I am picking on Optoma. I will say that despite having a slower colorwheel so in theory it should have a higher durability, I have read reports of colorwheel failure on the Mitsubishi after less than 1000hrs. But that is not to imply it is anything except very unlikely, but possible.


I replied despite having no first hand knowledge because I was bored. I have started threads that got few or no responses and personally prefer to get any response to no response. I was not aware I was suppose to quote sources and link to checkable facts. ProjectorReview.com and ProjectorCentral.com have reviews of the HD65 in English which mention most of what I did. I would be suprised if many people own both the Mitsubishi hc1500 and Optoma HD65, if they do it would be nice to hear their thoughts.


I currently use a Mitsubishi XD460U and fortunately have a spare one if it fails. I got the projectors because they where cheap, xga resolution for PAL DVD and I wanted to see what dlp was like since my previous projector was LCD. The next time I buy a projector it will be one with a better colorwheel, optomized for D65 large red segment, no white segment, and preferably with Yellow, Magenta, Cyan segments. But I may wait for colorwheels & lamps to be replaced by LED DLP.


Which out of HC1500 & HD65 would you buy?

Do you know, have you read elsewhere information which contradicts my suppositions, if so please correct them.
 

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The HC1600 has the 2X colorwheel, not the HC1500.


The yellow segment of the RGBCYM color wheel in the Optoma will provide the brightness boost that was originally provided by the clear segment. The Optoma does provide basic color saturation adjustment as well as the RGB gain and bias advanced adjustments if needed.


The HC1600 has the 2X color wheel and I agree that it was probably designed to reduce the wear that the Mitsubishi color wheels were experiencing at the higher speeds in the HD1000 and HC1500 and possibly leading to premature failure in a few reported HD1000s.


I would not recommend using the True Vivid function in the Optoma based on my experience with the HD70 and the reports of others, however, personal testing is always recommended.


Optoma has several gamma options available in the advanced menu under DEGAMMA. You can adjust the gamma to achieve very good shadow detail on the Optoma.


I would consider the problems experienced by Panasonic AX100u owners to be a quality control / build quality issue. The issues that are found in a few Optomas and Mitsubishis are more a product of the typical build process for consumer electronics and falls well within the "acceptable" failure rate for CE.


Focus sharpness within the majority of the zoom range for both PJs is basically equivalent but at the extremes the Mits may have a slight advantage though most will not notice. A refurbed Marantz VP4001 or VP6800 would put both to shame but then the Marantz orginally cost much more due to the lens assembly.


Removal of edge noise on the Optoma is achieved by use of EdgeMask found in the Display Menu. No zooming is used so no image degradation will occur.


I think it was decided that the HC1500 had the edge on the HD70 when they both ran neck and neck on the market. Now the HC1600 and the HD65 are competitors and seem to be pretty close in actual performance. However, since I have had a well behaved Optoma for over 2 years and since the HD65 has the newer RGBCYM colorwheel, I would probably pick the Optoma over the Mitsubishi.


OP was asking about HD65 or HC1500 not the 1600 - I would pick Optoma over the 1500 as well.
 

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Thanks I will edit my original post with your corrections.


The Mitsubishi HC1500 and HC1600 are rated as having different color wheel speeds due to their different segments causing the colors to be refreshed at different rates. The actual wheel spins at the same speed. So HC1600 will be just as reliable or unreliable as the HC1500. The HC1600 will cause more dlp rainbow effect.


I agree the yellow segment will provide most of the brightness boost provided by a white segment. However the white segment is more light efficient, can be used more of the time and can be bigger. But it causes problems. The point at which the white segment turns on can cause dithering noise in some shades of mid to high tones (it does on my projector.) In some projectors with large white segments (I believe the HC1500 has a relatively small white segment) it can bleach out yellow so they opt for a mustardy yellow, or use a yellow segment as well (like my projector.) Finally when used it lowers color saturation in bright colors. So you generally do not want to use a white segment in a hometheater where color accuracy is important.


Brightness will be dependent on a combination of lamp brightness, colorwheel, and internal iris size. The brighter the lamp generally the hotter it runs and depending on design the louder the cooling fan. The smaller the iris the lower the brightness but the better the contrast due to better descrimination against stray light in the lightbox.


For hometheater I believe you want as quiet a fan noise as possible, no white segment in the color wheel and as small an iris as possible. There is a direct trade off between image quality (contrast and color accuracy) and image brightness (for viewing in ambient light.) The Mitsubishi makes a bigger trade off in its design than the Optoma. The Optoma has a quiter lamp cooling fan in low lamp mode, no white segment in its colorwheel, and a smaller internal iris for better contrast at the expense of brightness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys.


The only reason I went with the Mits. is because I found it new (not a refurb) for $559. Thats before tax and shipping. Just a few bucks over $600. If anyone knows a cheaper total price for either projector, let me know!


My HD1000 is for sale because I don't know what the trouble is. The power light flashes red/green and then the status light also flashes. It won't turn on. Anyone with repair experience want to make an offer?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawntmartin /forum/post/15430685


Thanks guys.


The only reason I went with the Mits. is because I found it new (not a refurb) for $559. Thats before tax and shipping. Just a few bucks over $600. If anyone knows a cheaper total price for either projector, let me know!


My HD1000 is for sale because I don't know what the trouble is. The power light flashes red/green and then the status light also flashes. It won't turn on. Anyone with repair experience want to make an offer?

I think you will be happy with your replacement and that price makes it even more likely!


As far as the HD1000u, have you pulled the lamp out and then reinserted it firmly to make sure it is seated properly?


The user manual says if both lights are blinking to contact Mitsubishi so if reseating the lamp does not get any results, it probably needs repair. How many hours are on the PJ and on the current lamp?
 
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