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I got the impression from previous messages that 3rd party purchases, like from Monoprice are available for trade ins as well. Correct me if I am wrong. Anyway $108 with free US shipping was a fantastic deal I think. It arrived within 3 days with the latest firmware. $24 worldwide is expensive, shipping fees should be much cheaper from Taiwan to China than to destinations on the other side of the globe. Despite you ship from Taiwan, shipping fees within Taiwan are also $24! That's non sense. There should always be at least 1 country, to which shipping is free but for whatever reason it is not the case with HD Fury official store.

By the way, the HDCP issue mentioned several times in this thread is still happening (despite loading a "beta" FW from you). I understand you test on Nvidia Shield, so I have Nvidia Shield as well, connected to TV via AVR Key. If I launch SPMC for instance, watch a movie, quit, then launch Netflix, I always get sound audio issue (audio not supported) resulting in no sound on the TV. Sometimes I just have to wait a bit to or try playing something else on Netflix, or quit Netflix and launch it again. It doesn't happen when connected directly. I do have all switches in mid position.

I believe this device is a premium priced, since there are other much cheaper alternatives. So I would definitely expect it to work as advertised but then all of the sudden after purchasing there are certain quirks with it or limitations mentioned by me before. Such possible awkward behaviors are not mentioned on the website, with the only exception being 4k60MHz usage for prolonged time.

Yes trade in available, but not at the same value if you didn't purchase from HDfury.com
Some places in the world cost more than 100$ to ship to, instead of charging each country individually, it was decided to charge everybody the same amount, some lose, some gain, at the end, all spend the same.


The only device in the world solving ANY issue such as the one you reported is Vertex/Integral2 and still there time to time we have to release update to fix something for a specific combo of source and sink brand/model, software version and settings.


For ex: you wrote you have issue with SPMC, can you repeat the same test with Kodi and do you have same issue ? if no, I guess you know where the problem comes from.
It's easy to blame the device in the middle that is supposed to work with any combo of source/sink variations, since as you said it's supposed to be made for that. Yet its not supposed to fix mistake, flaw and error at any software level.


Even top brand like Sony and Microsoft for playstation and xbox have in the past released firmware update that killed support for many HDMI devices, and sometimes it took up to 3 weeks to have an update and get things working back as they should.
Will you blame us for not being compatible during that period ?


Last, you can read this thread history and any flaw have been listed and one of them we are still looking for a way to reproduce, so it's all here available for everyone to knows and read freely, nothing hidden.
And you talk about reference design, you can take any of these cheap devices using reference design, they won't solve anything that have been solved here, once again, thread history speaks for itself. Never wondered why some have no public support ?


This being said, back to your issue, if you use AVR-Key, the purpose is to send video to TV and audio to AVR, so if you have "If I launch SPMC for instance, watch a movie, quit, then launch Netflix, I always get sound audio issue (audio not supported) resulting in no sound on the TV"
Of course TV can have sound format not supported, if AVR audio capabilities exceed TV capabilities, then source will often send audio format to AVR that is superior to what the TV can handle and hence, no sound. So actually no issue there unless you made a mistake in the description.
 

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[...]
For ex: you wrote you have issue with SPMC, can you repeat the same test with Kodi and do you have same issue ? if no, I guess you know where the problem comes from.
It's easy to blame the device in the middle that is supposed to work with any combo of source/sink variations, since as you said it's supposed to be made for that. Yet its not supposed to fix mistake, flaw and error at any software level.
[...]
Thanks for lengthy response. I will check with Kodi when I have a little more time. However I know how to reproduce HDCP issue on Netflix.

1. Since I have HW700DS I always turn it ON first, BEFORE switching on Shield / TV
2. When I am finished with HW700DS, they will turn off itself including the receiver
3. During turning off the HW700DS receiver, the TV display comes dark for a second or two, which I guess is a normal behavior.
4. When I enter Netflix (for the 1st time) and want to watch something, there is HDCP error showing up. I have to quit Netflix and reopen.

I know this may be a minor annoyance, but my wife is shouting nothing works in this bloody complicated setup :)
 

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Thanks for lengthy response. I will check with Kodi when I have a little more time. However I know how to reproduce HDCP issue on Netflix.

1. Since I have HW700DS I always turn it ON first, BEFORE switching on Shield / TV
2. When I am finished with HW700DS, they will turn off itself including the receiver
3. During turning off the HW700DS receiver, the TV display comes dark for a second or two, which I guess is a normal behavior.
4. When I enter Netflix (for the 1st time) and want to watch something, there is HDCP error showing up. I have to quit Netflix and reopen.

I know this may be a minor annoyance, but my wife is shouting nothing works in this bloody complicated setup :)

You said you got beta Fw from us, you got it from our discord support server ? are you sure you flashed it right ? because you cannot have such issue with it. Please join support server and send message to user: hdfury so we can double check.
 

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Hi there. I've been setting up an Nvidia shield with AVR key to connect with an DD+ AVR receiver (Arcam AVR950). Using Amazon prime app, the DD+ audio sent through works fine, however the for the Netflix app, only digital stereo is played. I've not been able to do much in terms of diagnostic checks as I've been setting this up for my Dad at a diff location (checking what AVRkey is receiving from the Shield, trying Roku instead etc), however it has occured to me that Netflix uses DD+ with Atmos (might be wrong). If this was the case, I thought the Atmos metadata or whatever would just be stripped an the AVR would play DD+ as it does for amazon. Obviously I need to do further checks, but am I flogging a dead horse with trying to get Netflix surround sound working on a Sheild with this non-Atmos capable receiver? Thanks
 

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Hi there. I've been setting up an Nvidia shield with AVR key to connect with an DD+ AVR receiver (Arcam AVR950). Using Amazon prime app, the DD+ audio sent through works fine, however the for the Netflix app, only digital stereo is played. I've not been able to do much in terms of diagnostic checks as I've been setting this up for my Dad at a diff location (checking what AVRkey is receiving from the Shield, trying Roku instead etc), however it has occured to me that Netflix uses DD+ with Atmos (might be wrong). If this was the case, I thought the Atmos metadata or whatever would just be stripped an the AVR would play DD+ as it does for amazon. Obviously I need to do further checks, but am I flogging a dead horse with trying to get Netflix surround sound working on a Sheild with this non-Atmos capable receiver? Thanks
Sorry if this can sound silly but you know that many Netflix shows are just stereo, don't you ?
 

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Hi Slimoli. Thanks for the reply. Yeah,I've tried multiple titles which state 5.1 etc, such as Star Wars Rogue One, and many of the newer sci-fi TV shows.
 

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Hi there. I've been setting up an Nvidia shield with AVR key to connect with an DD+ AVR receiver (Arcam AVR950). Using Amazon prime app, the DD+ audio sent through works fine, however the for the Netflix app, only digital stereo is played. I've not been able to do much in terms of diagnostic checks as I've been setting this up for my Dad at a diff location (checking what AVRkey is receiving from the Shield, trying Roku instead etc), however it has occured to me that Netflix uses DD+ with Atmos (might be wrong). If this was the case, I thought the Atmos metadata or whatever would just be stripped an the AVR would play DD+ as it does for amazon. Obviously I need to do further checks, but am I flogging a dead horse with trying to get Netflix surround sound working on a Sheild with this non-Atmos capable receiver? Thanks

If you have AUDIO slide on mid position, then AVRkey will report your exact AVR specs to your source, if that doesn't allow the source to send higher signal than digital stereo, then there isn't much to do about it, except trying for another source that would allow better option for that given AVR.
It's quite easy to determine, move audio slide to FULL AUDIO position and restart your source, then your source will allow any sound format possible that more likely exceed your AVR capabilities in most cases, however, this allow you to manually set source output audio opitons and then you can see if there is something not detected that is working for your AVR, but I highly doubt it.
 

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I just updated my nvidia 960 drivers and I'm getting cracking sound and the sony 4k tv flickering on and off
for a few minutes and then stopping. This has not happened before. Any ideas?
 

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I just updated my nvidia 960 drivers and I'm getting cracking sound and the sony 4k tv flickering on and off
for a few minutes and then stopping. This has not happened before. Any ideas?

Revert GPU driver to previous one and wait a new release. (and check their release note, Nvidia usually list known issues and possible issues)
 

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Good morning,


I have an nvidia shield that i use with a Samsung Q9FN tv. I bought an HDFury AVR-Key in order to get 4k HDR from the tv but also use an older Rotel Receiver to get HD audio using the nvidia shield. I enable UHD Color in HDMI 1 in the Samsung TV which is the one i use


When i open netflix/prime video via nvidia shield using Avr-key in the middle i only get 4k but not hdr on series/movies (no hdr label is visible in the show/movie page) i know are available in hdr. If i connect the shield directly to the tv using any of the hdmi cables i was using via Avr-key i get 4k hdr in the same shows/movies (hdr label is visible in the show/movie page before pressing play). I tried AVR-Key with both switches in the middle position but also the video one in the top position.


In both cases i had nvidia shield configured with screen resolution 3840x2160, 59.940 Hz YUV 420 10-bit Rec. 2020 but also tried 23.976 12-bit Rec. 2020 and other variants with and without AVR Key


I think someone also had this same problem in this very same page



Am i doing something wrong?


Thanks in advance
 

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Good morning,


I have an nvidia shield that i use with a Samsung Q9FN tv. I bought an HDFury AVR-Key in order to get 4k HDR from the tv but also use an older Rotel Receiver to get HD audio using the nvidia shield. I enable UHD Color in HDMI 1 in the Samsung TV which is the one i use


When i open netflix/prime video via nvidia shield using Avr-key in the middle i only get 4k but not hdr on series/movies (no hdr label is visible in the show/movie page) i know are available in hdr. If i connect the shield directly to the tv using any of the hdmi cables i was using via Avr-key i get 4k hdr in the same shows/movies (hdr label is visible in the show/movie page before pressing play). I tried AVR-Key with both switches in the middle position but also the video one in the top position.


In both cases i had nvidia shield configured with screen resolution 3840x2160, 59.940 Hz YUV 420 10-bit Rec. 2020 but also tried 23.976 12-bit Rec. 2020 and other variants with and without AVR Key


I think someone also had this same problem in this very same page



Am i doing something wrong?


Thanks in advance
Verify FW running on your unit and post GUI screenshot of both EDID and CONFIG TAB, answer is there more likely.
Make sure to restart your source between any slide switches changes and make sure unit is properly powered from 5V 2A when testing in setup (only use USB port for update or config)
 

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Verify FW running on your unit and post GUI screenshot of both EDID and CONFIG TAB, answer is there more likely.
Make sure to restart your source between any slide switches changes and make sure unit is properly powered from 5V 2A when testing in setup (only use USB port for update or config)

Do you prefer i update to the last FW version + retest before sending the screenshots? To tell you the truth i haven't checked if it's running on the latest FW yet.


I'll do it tonight and get back to you asap


Thanks
 

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Verify FW running on your unit and post GUI screenshot of both EDID and CONFIG TAB, answer is there more likely.
Make sure to restart your source between any slide switches changes and make sure unit is properly powered from 5V 2A when testing in setup (only use USB port for update or config)

I've updated the firmware to the latest and now i'm getting 4k and HDR. Problem now is that bitstreaming audio to the receiver is not working


I'm attaching what the GUI tool says when i play a show in netflix and i connect avr-key to my computer



I've also tried connecting the nvidia shield to the receiver directly (my receiver is old so no 4k nor hdr is available through there). Dolby digital+ is visible whenwatching something through netflix/prime. But i also tried videos with DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD and the label is displayed correctly in the receiver.


I've tried the switches in different positions (restarting the source) and the only thing i've detected is with the audio switch to the bottom (or changing it through the GUI) i get audio through the receiver (GUI tells me it's not bitstreaming but sending PCM audio to the receiver in this case)


Any help will be welcomed


Thanks in advance
 

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I've updated the firmware to the latest and now i'm getting 4k and HDR. Problem now is that bitstreaming audio to the receiver is not working


I'm attaching what the GUI tool says when i play a show in netflix and i connect avr-key to my computer



I've also tried connecting the nvidia shield to the receiver directly (my receiver is old so no 4k nor hdr is available through there). Dolby digital+ is visible whenwatching something through netflix/prime. But i also tried videos with DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD and the label is displayed correctly in the receiver.


I've tried the switches in different positions (restarting the source) and the only thing i've detected is with the audio switch to the bottom (or changing it through the GUI) i get audio through the receiver (GUI tells me it's not bitstreaming but sending PCM audio to the receiver in this case)


Any help will be welcomed


Thanks in advance

This is not latest firmware, make sure to update both MCU and FPGA, then you should have FW 1.620.218
 

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so, i've been subscribed to this thread for a while, yet still haven't pulled the plug on buying a unit to split the signal coming from my Apple TV 4k. i am hoping i can have a couple questions answers...

my setup: Apple TV 4k, Emotiva UMC-200 processor (doesn't handle 4k video), Sony x900e TV.

my motivation for pursuing a AVR-key is to get better sound out of the Apple TV 4k because right now, i have to set it to DolbyDigital5.1 since the "best available/LPM" option only gives me 2 channel audio since i am using optical cable going from the TV into the Emotiva Processor.

So my questions:

1. Does anyone have any experience with this combination of components? i am assuming the AVRkey should work in most situations, but i thought it was worth asking lest i buy it and have syncing issues.

2. i plead ignorance here but should i be concerned with the AVR-key's limitation regarding 600mhz signals? i have my Apple TV set to output 4k, 4:4:4 HDR even though i'm guessing the material we watch doesn't require it. the ATV 4k is predominately used to listen to music (streaming lossless files from an old Mac) and watch movies (24 fps, i am assuming is true for 100% of them)... with this usage pattern, will we run into this 600 mhz limitation?

3. finally, can anyone speak to the audio improvement in going with this setup over my current forced DD5.1 configuration? for a while now, i've been frustrated by the fact that we are always choosing between being able to play Blu-ray discs with stellar audio (up to 7.1 lossless) but with 1080p limitations, vs. better 4K video/HDR10 (our TV doesn't support Dolby Vision) but mediocre audio. i know the HDFury solution still won't get me to lossless audio, but i'm hoping we will have a noticeable improvement in audio quality.

4. Any downside of buying the HDFury from Amazon/Monoprice/B&H to save on shipping? (i know it's been mentioned that upgrade policies may be limited, but i assume support/warranty are still valid since they are hopefully authorized resellers in the US?

sorry if some of these questions are overly basic or i somehow missed the answers as i have followed this thread. i'd love to get people's thoughts on these if you are willing to share your insights with me.

thanks!
 

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3. finally, can anyone speak to the audio improvement in going with this setup over my current forced DD5.1 configuration? for a while now, i've been frustrated by the fact that we are always choosing between being able to play Blu-ray discs with stellar audio (up to 7.1 lossless) but with 1080p limitations, vs. better 4K video/HDR10 (our TV doesn't support Dolby Vision) but mediocre audio. i know the HDFury solution still won't get me to lossless audio, but i'm hoping we will have a noticeable improvement in audio quality.

I'm on the same boat and the only reason why I'm planning to use the AVR KEY is to get Dolby ATMOS from the Itunes library . My display is DV compatible and my receiver is ATMOS certified but no DV passthrough. I guess there will be a nice improvement on the audio side. Make sure you buy from people with a decent return policy, there is an old model of the AVR KEY and you don't want that one.
 

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so, i've been subscribed to this thread for a while, yet still haven't pulled the plug on buying a unit to split the signal coming from my Apple TV 4k. i am hoping i can have a couple questions answers...

my setup: Apple TV 4k, Emotiva UMC-200 processor (doesn't handle 4k video), Sony x900e TV.

my motivation for pursuing a AVR-key is to get better sound out of the Apple TV 4k because right now, i have to set it to DolbyDigital5.1 since the "best available/LPM" option only gives me 2 channel audio since i am using optical cable going from the TV into the Emotiva Processor.

So my questions:

1. Does anyone have any experience with this combination of components? i am assuming the AVRkey should work in most situations, but i thought it was worth asking lest i buy it and have syncing issues.

2. i plead ignorance here but should i be concerned with the AVR-key's limitation regarding 600mhz signals? i have my Apple TV set to output 4k, 4:4:4 HDR even though i'm guessing the material we watch doesn't require it. the ATV 4k is predominately used to listen to music (streaming lossless files from an old Mac) and watch movies (24 fps, i am assuming is true for 100% of them)... with this usage pattern, will we run into this 600 mhz limitation?

3. finally, can anyone speak to the audio improvement in going with this setup over my current forced DD5.1 configuration? for a while now, i've been frustrated by the fact that we are always choosing between being able to play Blu-ray discs with stellar audio (up to 7.1 lossless) but with 1080p limitations, vs. better 4K video/HDR10 (our TV doesn't support Dolby Vision) but mediocre audio. i know the HDFury solution still won't get me to lossless audio, but i'm hoping we will have a noticeable improvement in audio quality.

4. Any downside of buying the HDFury from Amazon/Monoprice/B&H to save on shipping? (i know it's been mentioned that upgrade policies may be limited, but i assume support/warranty are still valid since they are hopefully authorized resellers in the US?

sorry if some of these questions are overly basic or i somehow missed the answers as i have followed this thread. i'd love to get people's thoughts on these if you are willing to share your insights with me.

thanks!

1. in 4K 99% of the problems or "sync issues" are cables related, using copper cable stick with min 6ft, max 12ft and from the recommended brand (kabledirekt, bluejeanscable, hdfury)... a 10$ Kabledirekt cable will work better than any 100$ BLAHBLAH brand.
I do think we already helped many owner for emotiva, so you should find something by using search feature here on avs or directly on our discord server.


2. As long as you only use 4K24 you will be perfectly fine, the highest 4K24 is 4K24 444 12b which is 450MHz, which will work trouble free on AVR key, the concerns are for 4K60 4:2:2 12b or 4K60 4:4:4 8b, if you plan on using any of those 2 then use Integral2/Vertex/Diva/Maestro/Vertex2.


3. And why you wouldn't get lossless ? Whatever your AVR supports as MAX audio format and whatever your source is capable of sending as the max closer to this format, that you will get ! when using AVR-Key, you can create a new device that mix your TV VIDEO capabilities and your AVR AUDIO capabilities. so the source will send VIDEO that match your TV and AUDIO that match your AVR. AVRkey get that signal and split it, video to TV, audio to AVR.
The only concern here is if you want ATMOS, since ATV4K recently changed ATMOS transmission from TRUEHD to Dolby MAT, you need an AVR that support DOLBY MAT for ATMOS from ATV4K running recent firmware.(many still hoping ATV4k will reverse this change or add more option to select how atmos shall be transmitted)


4. Amazon is full of scams so we will never recommend this place for purchasing. In all cases, if you don't buy the unit directly from us, make sure it comes with 5V 2A power supply and powercord, many sellers will keep power supply and sell them separately. Make sure you have windows computer and install drivers to verify fw version since you never know how long those sellers had their stock in hands so you have no idea what firmware is currently running on their units and of course, they won't update it for you.
 

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1. in 4K 99% of the problems or "sync issues" are cables related, using copper cable stick with min 6ft, max 12ft and from the recommended brand (kabledirekt, bluejeanscable, hdfury)... a 10$ Kabledirekt cable will work better than any 100$ BLAHBLAH brand.
I do think we already helped many owner for emotiva, so you should find something by using search feature here on avs or directly on our discord server.


2. As long as you only use 4K24 you will be perfectly fine, the highest 4K24 is 4K24 444 12b which is 450MHz, which will work trouble free on AVR key, the concerns are for 4K60 4:2:2 12b or 4K60 4:4:4 8b, if you plan on using any of those 2 then use Integral2/Vertex/Diva/Maestro/Vertex2.


3. And why you wouldn't get lossless ? Whatever your AVR supports as MAX audio format and whatever your source is capable of sending as the max closer to this format, that you will get ! when using AVR-Key, you can create a new device that mix your TV VIDEO capabilities and your AVR AUDIO capabilities. so the source will send VIDEO that match your TV and AUDIO that match your AVR. AVRkey get that signal and split it, video to TV, audio to AVR.
The only concern here is if you want ATMOS, since ATV4K recently changed ATMOS transmission from TRUEHD to Dolby MAT, you need an AVR that support DOLBY MAT for ATMOS from ATV4K running recent firmware.(many still hoping ATV4k will reverse this change or add more option to select how atmos shall be transmitted)


4. Amazon is full of scams so we will never recommend this place for purchasing. In all cases, if you don't buy the unit directly from us, make sure it comes with 5V 2A power supply and powercord, many sellers will keep power supply and sell them separately. Make sure you have windows computer and install drivers to verify fw version since you never know how long those sellers had their stock in hands so you have no idea what firmware is currently running on their units and of course, they won't update it for you.
thanks for the detailed response. it sounds like would fine with the AVRKey. i'm guessing the 4k60 HDR is for folks playing back files from her NAS/home servers?

perhaps, i am incorrect, but Apple TV 4k only streams lossy audio for their movies in Dolby Digital + (https://www.apple.com/apple-tv-4k/specs/). my current 7.1 system doesn't have Atmos speakers nor does my Emotiva support Atmos, so i'm just try to optimize sound given my current limitations.

Is Monoprice or B&H an authorized Reseller? (i should never included Amazon in that list although i do see Amazon sells on behalf of Monoprice)

thanks!
 
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