So I got the HDMI cable today and it does not seem to work with the HDFury. Do you have any suggestions for a power supply that will give more power but not go over the limit? Thanks!Yes but you still need to have enough V for pull up resistor, but that is a good start, so just try.
You can use 5.25V power supply but NEVER exceed 5.3V !So I got the HDMI cable today and it does not seem to work with the HDFury. Do you have any suggestions for a power supply that will give more power but not go over the limit? Thanks!
Best way is prolly to ask in Diva or Vertex2 channel if any user with same sound system can send you a custom EDID for that.Devices
Tv: 75 inch Samsung q8fn - bottom output
Sb: nakamichi shockwave 9.2.4 2018 - top output
Xbox one x - input 0
Shield TV pro 2019 - input 1
Hi HD fury,
I saw the March 19 2020 news post on your website regarding how to get LLDV dolby vision working on any TV and tried it with my setup. I was able to get the Xbox one x and my shield TV pro 2019 to activate dolby vision using the Sony A1 profile included in the integral 2 and also with marks custom bt2020 edid that was linked in the article. My issue is that either of those profiles breaks dts:x for home theater on the Xbox one x, and it says that my soundbar does not support it. The nakamichi sb does work with dts:x since it was the highest format that it supported prior to being updated to support dolby atmos. Dolby atmos in the Xbox works with either of the custom profiles that I have mentioned.
I'm currently trying out this new sound option on the xbox, but can only use it if I set integral 2 on automix with native sound enable or if I use the custom profile for the Q9FN or another profile with full sound. I have not tried to play dts:x on my shield TV, so I'm not sure if that is broken as well.
Can you help with diagnosing this issue?
Also, are there any detailed instructions on how to use the lldv hack on the integral 2. The guides that were linked in the new post were geared towards diva and vertex 2. I want to know if there are any additional tweaks that I can apply in my setup. The picture quality with dv content on the shield TV looked pretty good but I don't know if I'm getting the best picture quality.
Thank you very much.
P.S. Can wait to see what solutions you come up for hdmi 2.1 to allow sound extraction from video signals with vrr. Want to get the best out of the next Gen consoles.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
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Join our discord support server and i'll get you working. (just copy/paste this in Integral2 channel or send PM to user: hdfury)facing blackout / flickering issue with my Integral2
From last one week my device has begin showing symptoms, while playing Netflix screen and sound goes black for few second and comes back, it continues endless.
Here is my default setting.
Xbox One X> INP1>HDMI Plugged In
Output > OUT0 > Sony 4K TV
OUT1> Yamaha YSP5600 Soundbar
What did I do to counter flickering/blackout screen problem is; in INPUT i changed source HDMI cable from INP1 to INP0 and it worked fine but then NO DV signal sent to TV only HDR is played.
I don't know what suddenly happened to device, Or did I do some mistake here?
I request help here please
I can live with it on Xbox one x. I will just switch to automix. I have a shield TV 2019 plugged in to input 1 and the lldv and dts x works on it fine. The issue is with the Xbox. If I switch the custom profile on input 0 to anything else I still can't get dtsx to work on the Xbox. I have a goblue so I can switch modes pretty easily. A slight annoyance hopefully solved by one of your future hdmi 2.1 devices. I'm one of the people that got screwed by buying an hdmi 2.0 TV with vrr and no earc, so I'm hopeful that your future devices will allow me to get everything working.Best way is prolly to ask in Diva or Vertex2 channel if any user with same sound system can send you a custom EDID for that.
Or just trade in current unit for new one.
Hi there please check your conversations and email me for the link to the firmware to test.Hi everyone,
I have a "used, but good" Integral2 here, which i wanted to use as a ARC+CEC enabled splitter for (currently) 1080p signals, with option to upgrade to 4k in the future.
However, I can't get it to accept/output anything, do I miss something in this configuration, or is the unit defective?
As it did not work in my intended setup, I tried with a more basic one, to test it:
The screen works correctly when connected with the second cable directly to the PC. Another monitor works at FHD with the first cable, so I assume both cables should be good enough for this test.
- Windows 10 PC with AMD Radeon RX 5700 HDMI out => connected to Integral Inp0 (tested different cables of 1-2m length, noname/one Amazon basics branded).
- Integral BOT connected to a FHD monitor (Wimaxit M1331C) via HDMI->mini-HDMI cable (no-name, 1.5m).
The Integral powers up, but goes to standby mode directly (LED off, no signal on screen).
When connected via USB, the GUI shows the monitor and it's EDID, and when I select "Copy BOT Sink" mode, Windows also shows the correct information, activates desktop extension and selects FHD resolution. Monitor itself shows no input (it just goes into standby / bluescreen).
In the status area, RX0 always shows "no signal". When I change the PC connection to INP1 (and also the active input on the Integral), it shows RX1: no signal.
Similar, when I change the screen to TOP (and use Copy TOP sink EDID), it shows it on TX1, but also has no output.
Do I have an error in my assumptions (that it should work also with FHD sources and sinks), is my configuration wrong, or did the previous owner fry both input channels?
- FW in use and config (if possible): 18.104.22.168 (updated by myself, that did work without issue); reset to defaults afterwards
- Confirmation that lock Icon is or is not visible via the On Screen Display (OSD): cannot check, no OSD shown at any time. I did the button press sequence, is it unlocked after one LED blink or two? Tested with both settings, did not change result.
- Test by power on sequence (power sink at outputs first, then source at input): does not solve the issue
- Switches are in middle positions, Config is reset to defaults with these changes: EDID Copy BOT sink; Auto Scaling without Upscaling.
- Config attached
- Also tried with other sources (Chromecast, USB-C->HDMI converter) and sinks (the originally planned Toshiba 47VL863 FHD TV)
hdfury needs a break! So I am helping.Testing the Chromecast directly to TV:
The Chromecast is a v2 non-Ultra (so only a FHD source, no 4K).
When connected directly to the TV, it shows a signal (both video and audio working; the TV shows 1080p60, 8bit, YUV 4:4:4 format).
I also tested it this way: Chromecast -> HDMI female/female adapter -> 2m HDMI cable -> TV. This also works, same result.
btw: why the new acc?
They sold you a "bad, but used" not "good, but used".OK, so even with the new firmware, there is no difference. In all cases I tried, RX0 stays as "no signal", and there is no signal on the TV. The chromecast, HDMI cable and TV was the same I tested earlier.
So basically everything in the control channels seems to be working, but the A/V signal itself does not. Even CEC is halfways working when I connect the TV to BOT and enable CEC. It then gets detected on the TV (but the TV does not accept the example commands in the GUI)
- I connected the TV to TOP (with the Integral reset to defaults, all switches in middle positions), no signal. (1_reset.txt)
- Changed the EDID to copy TOP, Autoscale (2_cfg1.txt)
- Changed the HDCP to 1.4 -> HDCP error on TX1 (3_hdcp_error.txt)
- Changed it back to 2.2 -> TX1 connected again, RX0 still no signal (also no signal on TV)
- Changed the input source to INP1 -> Integral autoswitched to RX1 (which then shows "no signal"). (4_cfg2.txt)
- Tried doing the lock sequence again (5_lock.txt)
Is there anything more I can test? Does the unit output some more debug output somewhere? Or should I just assume it is gone?