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Also as I said before there are almost zero 60hz movies. Almost all except for a few are all 24hz. So it is not really anything to worry about.
Yes, not an issue for movies as of now.

There are some 4K HDR 60Hz documentaries around. For these videos, a HDR AUTO setting in my OPPO 203 would output 60 Hz, but nevertheless forcing my PJ to display 4K59.944 420 BT709 8b 297MHz 2.22K videos, which is inferior to Rec 2020, and sometimes it even displays 2K videos @1080p! Otherwise it would exceed its LCD panel design capability. Therefore I have to force my player to output 4K HDR @24Hz so as to achieve 4K HDR 24Hz 4:2:2 12bit, the better Rec 2020 video standard.
 

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Hi,

Am running a little complex setup...see here: HDFury Maestro HDBaseT owner's thread. Basically a Maestro TX --> RX--> Vertex2 --> Two displays.

Everything has been working perfectly for a few weeks. But today, the Vertex2 has started playing up. No video reaching TX0 and dropouts every 20 seconds to TX1.

I have torn everything apart (cables, power cycling) and checked each end device. Tried firmware re-flash and so on...
I then swapped in a spare Maestro TX unit, in place of the Vertex and everything works again...so all roads lead to the Vertex.

It almost feels like its not providing a strong enough signal all of a sudden - or it has trouble with the strength of the inbound signal...but for it to happen so suddenly when nothing else in the chain has has changed leads me to believe its a unit fault.

Any ideas? I bought it from your Amazon store on Dec. 3rd.

UPDATE: I just thought of one change I did make, which was to flash the Maestro TX/RX from 0.63 to 0.64. I wonder if that has caused something to change in the output from the TX/RX chain, which is confusing the Vertex2?
 

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Hi,

Am running a little complex setup...see here: HDFury Maestro HDBaseT owner's thread. Basically a Maestro TX --> RX--> Vertex2 --> Two displays.

Everything has been working perfectly for a few weeks. But today, the Vertex2 has started playing up. No video reaching TX0 and dropouts every 20 seconds to TX1.

I have torn everything apart (cables, power cycling) and checked each end device. Tried firmware re-flash and so on...
I then swapped in a spare Maestro TX unit, in place of the Vertex and everything works again...so all roads lead to the Vertex.

It almost feels like its not providing a strong enough signal all of a sudden - or it has trouble with the strength of the inbound signal...but for it to happen so suddenly when nothing else in the chain has has changed leads me to believe its a unit fault.

Any ideas? I bought it from your Amazon store on Dec. 3rd.

UPDATE: I just thought of one change I did make, which was to flash the Maestro TX/RX from 0.63 to 0.64. I wonder if that has caused something to change in the output from the TX/RX chain, which is confusing the Vertex2?
You are being helped via discord. We will continue help there as it is more efficient.
 

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Have a question. I have the following
1. Apple TV 4K
2. Vizio P Series Quantum X 2020-21 75 inch
3. Samsung HW K950 soundbar (2016)

I can get Dolby Atmos to the soundbar, but cannot get Dolby Vision and Atmos since the soundbar doesn't support it. I'm told HD Fury products would solve my issue. But I'm not sure which one to get.

Any advice appreciated. Looking for a simple solution that doesn't involve buying a new soundbar.
 

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Have a question. I have the following
1. Apple TV 4K
2. Vizio P Series Quantum X 2020-21 75 inch
3. Samsung HW K950 soundbar (2016)

I can get Dolby Atmos to the soundbar, but cannot get Dolby Vision and Atmos since the soundbar doesn't support it. I'm told HD Fury products would solve my issue. But I'm not sure which one to get.

Any advice appreciated. Looking for a simple solution that doesn't involve buying a new soundbar.
The vertex 2 or diva will work for you. They have a dedicated hdmi audio output to go to the soundbar and will send the video directly to the display.
 

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The vertex 2 or diva will work for you. They have a dedicated hdmi audio output to go to the soundbar and will send the video directly to the display.
Thanks, how would i connect the device? Apple TV 4K HDMI into the Vertex 2/Diva and HDMI from the Diva to the soundbar (and then HDMI from soundbar to TV)?
 

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I don't know if mentioning alternatives is allowed, but I could not find any comparisons online. How does the HDFury compare to MadVR? I messed with MadVR a bit & the HDR (via madvr tone mapping & sending as sdr) on my epson 5050ub is incredible!! However with PC's it gets wonky & its a hassle to move PC into theater room. If even mentioning MadVR is not allowed please remove, and if possible PM me some thoughts.
 

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I don't know if mentioning alternatives is allowed, but I could not find any comparisons online. How does the HDFury compare to MadVR? I messed with MadVR a bit & the HDR (via madvr tone mapping & sending as sdr) on my epson 5050ub is incredible!! However with PC's it gets wonky & its a hassle to move PC into theater room. If even mentioning MadVR is not allowed please remove, and if possible PM me some thoughts.
A HDFury and madVR do not share the same goal. MadVR changes the content of the signal, HDFury plays with metadata. One does not replace the other.
 
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Thanks, how would i connect the device? Apple TV 4K HDMI into the Vertex 2/Diva and HDMI from the Diva to the soundbar (and then HDMI from soundbar to TV)?
I would hook the appletv into the vertex2/diva hdmi input.
then the dedicated hdmi audio output of the hdfury to the soundbar.
then the hdfury hdmi output tx0 to the tv
 

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Isn't the main goal/feature of both to get the best HDR look?
I think you may be referring to the Dolby Vision 'hack' - the HDFury makes this possible by modifying the EDID and adding HDR10 metadata (to switch to HDR mode on the display) but it's the source device that actually does most of the work (tone mapping LLDV + converting SDR/HDR if your source device supports this and it's enabled).
 

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I think you may be referring to the Dolby Vision 'hack' - the HDFury makes this possible by modifying the EDID and adding HDR10 metadata (to switch to HDR mode on the display) but it's the source device that actually does most of the work (tone mapping LLDV + converting SDR/HDR if your source device supports this and it's enabled).
Ok got it, this was exactly what I was looking for. So in my situation then madvr would be the best route to take.
 

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For streaming content the HDFury + DV 'hack' is the best option (if watching services such as Netflix, Disney+, Apple TV+ or iTunes Movies which have plenty of DV content.)

For UHD/Blu-ray discs, either MadVR or a good UHD player such as Panasonic UB420/UB820 with HDR optimiser is the best option.

Or you could get a dedicated video processor such as a Lumagen or MadVR Envy, but these are very expensive.
 

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For streaming content the HDFury + DV 'hack' is the best option (if watching services such as Netflix, Disney+, Apple TV+ or iTunes Movies which have plenty of DV content.)

For UHD/Blu-ray discs, either MadVR or a good UHD player such as Panasonic UB420/UB820 with HDR optimiser is the best option.

Or you could get a dedicated video processor such as a Lumagen or MadVR Envy, but these are very expensive.
Excellent summary. I agree 100%.
 
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For UHD/Blu-ray discs, either MadVR or a good UHD player such as Panasonic UB420/UB820 with HDR optimiser is the best option.
In my limited experience, I believe the lldv trick is much better than using a uhd bluray’s internal static tone mapping, including the famous panasonic optimizer. Especially with a dolby vision disc, but even so with a plain hdr one too.
 

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Hello everyone......Found this thread and was hoping for a little help. I have previously used a vertex, but decided for a new setup to use a Vertex 2. I need to know whether the way I intend to setup the new system will work. The biggest issue I face is getting my Sony MDR-HW700DS wireless hmdi 1.4 headphones to work. What would be the correct way to setup. I was thinking along the lines of this. Can anyone confirm if this would work correctly? I drew a diagram the components are Sony A8H tv, Directv receiver, Zidoo media player and a Panasonic DP-UB820-K ran through a Sony HT-ST5000 sound bar. Thanks for everyone's input and advice in advance..........
3077848
 

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I have a Vertex2 which I am ready to install into my setup. Will it support the following?
OUTPUT1 - 4K LG OLED
OUTPUT2 - 4K Onkyo RZ3100
OUTPUT3 - 1080P Bedroom TV (or does this output only support Audio?)

thanks.
 

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I have a Vertex2 which I am ready to install into my setup. Will it support the following?
OUTPUT1 - 4K LG OLED
OUTPUT2 - 4K Onkyo RZ3100
OUTPUT3 - 1080P Bedroom TV (or does this output only support Audio?)

thanks.
The third output is Audio only so it should be connected to the AVR.
TX0 output connect to 4K TV
TX1 output connect to 1080P TV. TX1 output can downscale to 1080P.

Do note that 4K HDR input will be scaled to 1080P HDR output. So any HDR content will have incorrect color on the 1080P TV.
 

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I just got my Vertex2 and hooked it up as below. Very new to this.
3078130

Current config:
1. EDID: AUTOMIX - TX0 + AUDIO OUT, HDR/HDR+=Checked, HLG=Checked, CUSTOM DV STRING=Checked
2. SCALER: AUTO SCALING (AUTOSENSE ALL + TX0 No Upscaling=Checked)
2a. For some reason I am not able to set TX1 4K60 HDR = 4K60 420 8-bit to indicate that I want to sacrifice color depth in favor of resolution on TX1.
3. HDR/AVI: Checked - Use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is HLG and display has no HLG support, Use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV

Questions:
1. What CEC configuration should I use so that my AVR is always turned on/off based on turning on/off of any of my input devices, but not my TX0 or TX1 display (I have to manually turn it on)? What if I want both my Audio and TX1 to turn on/off, but not TX0?
2. What CUSTOM DOLBY VISION DATA BLOCK values should I use for the Projector and for the Samsung TV? Is it possible to apply different data blocks for the projector vs. TV without having to change it every time?
3. Why am I not able to set SCALAR/AUTO SCALING to TX1 4K60 HDR = 4K60 420 8-bit
 
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