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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Basic question on HDMI switches. Not sure where is the proper category to put this thread. I have 4 video components hooked up into the Monoprice 4x1 HDMI switch with equalizer. An LG Blu ray player, a PS3, an HD-XA1, and an HD-XA2. Since my Yamaha receiver only has two HDMI inputs, I figured I would run the HDMI outs from all the components into the switch and then have the switch OUT go into my receiver. I should mention that I bought a refurbished switch which may be the problem. When I set the input to any channel on the switch for either my XA2 or the LG BR, and then pass the video/audio into my receiver, lights seems to intermittently blink on/off on the receiver and the video/picture on the projector screen flickers constantly and there is no sound. But the older XA1 passes the video/audio fine into the receiver and the signal in the PJ and onto the screen. Not sure if there is something weird/defective with the switch. The XA1 of course decodes internally as does my PS3, but the LG BR and XA2 I have set to send a direct signal into the receiver for decoding (so I can get the newer HD audio formats which my AVR can handle). Those are the ones getting messed up. If I connect either one directly into the receiver, bypassing the switch totally, everything is fine. I'm pretty much convinced the switch is bad since the cables work fine with a direct connect.


I'm wondering if my connections from 4 HDMI outs going in the hdmi with one from the switch going out into the receiver is incorrect. I couldn't see any other reason for a switch other than this hookup but thought I'd ask. I'm thinking of just buying the newer 4x1 switch from them (or maybe taking a chance on the same model but NEW switch), since the ratings are pretty good and the price is right. Comments please. Thanks in advance!
 

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You've tried everything I would have recommended. If the equipment works going directly into the AVR, it sounds like the switch is the issue.


How old is the switch? It's too bad you couldn't borrow a switch to test...


I can't think of any reason your setup would not work. I'd actually thought about doing the same thing as my current AVR doesn't have HDMI. I've decided to go with an Onkyo instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemer533 /forum/post/18218820


You've tried everything I would have recommended. If the equipment works going directly into the AVR, it sounds like the switch is the issue.


How old is the switch? It's too bad you couldn't borrow a switch to test...


I can't think of any reason your setup would not work. I'd actually thought about doing the same thing as my current AVR doesn't have HDMI. I've decided to go with an Onkyo instead.

I have the HDX-401E switch. Even though my PJ is only 720p, it accepts a 1080p signal (Sanyo Z5). I have the XA1 outputting 1080i to the receiver / PJ. As for the rest of the components, I'm sending out a 1080p signal. The receiver will take the signal if I go direct to it, not thru the switch. I know the switch suggests running 24 or lower awg cables, but that seems kind of crazy since I'm only using 1 foot or 3 foot cables which I believe are 28awg from monoprice (the nice colored ones for dirt cheap but with great reviews). I'm wondering. The XA1 is the only one outputting 1080i and the switch passes it but not the rest. Maybe I'll try changing the res from 1080p to 1080i? But the switch is spec'd to pass 1080p. The switch is only a few months old.
 

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With HDMI you have to consider the whole system and not just the switch. Get all your components next to each other including the PJ and try everything with short cables. I'm making the assumption the PJ is on a longer cable than the others which you stare are all 1-3 feet.


With everything on 3 foot or less cables including the PJ see if the system works. If it does you have a signaling issue and then you have to go over your options to correct it i.e. better cables, signal restorers, baluns, etc. If not then look at the switch, other equipment or possibly the cables.


With HDMI just because something works without the switch and not with it does not necessarily mean the switch is the problem. I know it defies logic but HDMI signaling is not quite that simple. You have to test the system with good quality short cables.


Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally got around to messing with the setup tonite (got two kids who need constant attention LOL). Since the only unit that was operating properly with the switch was the XA1 (max 1080i), I changed the LG BR and XA2 to output to 1080i instead of 1080P and oddly enough, the switch is outputting properly now to the receiver. So not sure what the deal is. Even though my Sanyo Z5 will accept a 1080p signal, the switch is causing problems. So I set all of my components to output at 1080i instead of 1080p. Switch appears to be operating fine now even though it should be able to work with 1080p. Who knows? I'm guessing the wires are not the issue at 28AWG since they work fine going directly to AVR? I may just get another switch and try that (if the Monoprice switch doesn't work, I believe I can send it back with no restocking fee).
 

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You have a bandwidth problem which is frequently a problem with cables. You have a lot of distance in your system I'd look at adding a signal restorer. A new switch might not solve your problem.


Did you try what I suggested and set up the system with all short cables?


This will tell you if it is a problem with signal integrity. It is worth temporarily moving the PJ for testing so you can get all the components close to each other.


If it is a signal integrity problem yo can either.


1. Use better cables. I'd look for ones with a DPL rating of 3 or better, which you won't find in lengths > 6m.

2. Add a signal restorer (I'd recommend ones by Ethereal or Spectrum Electronic Solutions).

3. Change the switch to one with a signal restorer in it (not just an equalizer). Although in your situation I'd suggest # 1 + 2 as signal restorers tend to do better near the display and your switch is before the receiver. Parasound and Spectrum electronic solutions are the ONLY switches with this technology that I know of it.


Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL /forum/post/18264515


You have a bandwidth problem which is frequently a problem with cables. You have a lot of distance in your system I'd look at adding a signal restorer. A new switch might not solve your problem.


Did you try what I suggested and set up the system with all short cables?


This will tell you if it is a problem with signal integrity. It is worth temporarily moving the PJ for testing so you can get all the components close to each other.


If it is a signal integrity problem yo can either.


1. Use better cables. I'd look for ones with a DPL rating of 3 or better, which you won't find in lengths > 6m.

2. Add a signal restorer (I'd recommend ones by Ethereal or Spectrum Electronic Solutions).

3. Change the switch to one with a signal restorer in it (not just an equalizer). Although in your situation I'd suggest # 1 + 2 as signal restorers tend to do better near the display and your switch is before the receiver. Parasound and Spectrum electronic solutions are the ONLY switches with this technology that I know of it.


Bob

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your insight. I'll have to try what you suggested. The PJ is on a 22AWG HDMI Monoprice cable approx. 20' lg (up a 8' wall then across drop ceiling for about 10' - see attachment). All 4 components are using either 1' or 3' 28awg cables going to the switch. Then I have one 3' 28awg going from switch to the AVR. From the AVR to the PJ, that's the one that is 20' on 22awg. For now I have the PS3, XA2, and LG all outputting 1080i till I have time to try what you suggest. Thanx again.

 
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