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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been using my PS3, Xbox360 and PC with the moome IFB card in my G90 for a little while. Its great and I'm very happy with it.


But until now I've been pulling the cable out of each device and manually switching it from device to device. The HDMI cable interface is terrible in my opinion and I always felt like it was going to either break or fall out when I would plug/unplug it.


Last week I took a chance and purchased a really cheap 3x1 HDMI switch. I was a little worried about it working with all the handshaking, edid and hdcp stuff. The one I got came from the bay (mine was item 120117408843 but there are a bunch that all look like they're the same thing). Its tiny, will either run on its own little power adapter or pulls power from the HDMI connector if at least one device is turned on, and works great.


Looking at HD-DVD and Blu-ray test pattern disks I dont see any change in my video when compared to just running straight. No black crush, pixel noise, banding or anything else I can perceive.


And both the Xbox360 and PS3 are happy to be switched between and restore their HDCP link without me having to switch inputs on the projector or do anything. I just works. And especially for $35 I couldnt possibly be happier.


I've been thinking of getting a much much more expensive gefen hdmi matrix switcher to be able to put whatever image on whatever display. Does anyone have experience with those? Somehow I'm a little more skeptical of the HDCP/EDID stuff working smoothly with a matrix switcher where I'd want to have the same image shown on more than one hdcp compliant display.
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=4299
 

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KrisRoberts said:
I've been using my PS3, Xbox360 and PC with the moome IFB card in my G90 for a little while. Its great and I'm very happy with it.


Hey Kris,


Do you have the Moome card with the gamma adjustment? If so, do you use it? Do you feel it would be better to go direct from your source to the G90 or first through a video processor where the picture could be more thoroughly calibrated (like thru a Lumagen HDQ)?


I just got a G90 myself



Thanks!.............Scott W.
 

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Kris I have the Gefen 4X4 matrix switcher and a 1292 with the Moome HDMI card. IT works but I have to do a little routine to get it started up or my projector will never sync up. I have to switch the 1292 to a dead input (B) then turn it off. When I power it up I have to let the 1292 warm up about a minute then I can change to input A (HDMI card) and it works 95% of the time. If I try to start it on hte HDMI card, I have no image at all.


The gefen syncs with everything EXCEPT my Toshiba XA2. It can work with it, but its flakey as the EDID was made a year after the gefen was released.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jon, thanks for the info! Does your moome card have the same sync up routine without the switch? If so I wonder if its something about the 1292 or the particular card you have. In my G90 I find that I can switch from input A (RGBHV) to input B (moome card) to input C (JohnHWman's card) all with active signals and it syncs to each one every time. And the two digital inputs even restore their HDCP links without a fuss.


Scott, yes I have the moome card with the gamma and I like it. For the Xbox360 and PS3 it helps a lot and I'm not eager to put them through a video processor. On their own I dont have much image adjustment options (although the recent system updates for both of them have added some). If I had money to burn I'd love to experiment with a Lumagen, but thats kind of far down the priority list with the other toys I'm saving my pennies for.

:)
 

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Kris,


Maybe its a 1292 thing and since you have a G90 that may be why you ahve no issues syncing up. Are you running 1080p60 on all those sources?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I run a variety of resolutin/refresh rates. But yeah, I've had no problems with any combination of inputs. Most of the time I have the PC RGB on input A input [email protected], the PS3 & Xbox360 share input B via the HDMI switch and either run at 720p60 or 1080p60, and then the PC DVI on input C into JohnHWman's card at 1080p60. I can switch between any input on the projector and any input of the switch and so far havent had any sync issues.
 
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