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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, really appreciate your help, lots of information, but although reading about gain, paints, screens, lumens and so on for weeks, I can´t decide what to do in my case. As you can see in the pic attached, almost everything is white and have lots of ambient light. We´re installing some semi-blackouts in those windows, but is the living room, and the idea is not getting it totally black, nor painting ceilings or something. The idea is to project the clown using the wall. Have a Benq HT2150ST and I’ve been using it for about 6 months resting in the middle table and projecting to the wall in the night, and have to say I’m impressed and happy with picture quality. But, for using it at day, apart from the blackouts, in process, and considering I’m allowed to paint the wall I’m projecting: Any paint or material recommended? Should I keep white or go with a light grey? Should consider an ALR pain? The idea is also keep the projector ceiling mounted, want to power on and go. Thanks in advance.
 

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Getting the curtains/blackouts put up should help a ton.
You could keep using the 2150st on the table with a light-grey interior flat paint as the screen (or ceiling-mount...either one will work equally well).

What is the screen-size you're projecting?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the clown something significant?..like a bit of art you wanted to project on the wall at some times with the curtains open or closed?
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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It was a "Clownish" question. :p

But not a dumb one since there was no mention whatsoever of using the PJ/Wall for video. BTW, the Clown Face shown is not being projected...it's a inserted Graphic.

If indeed the need calls for use only for a Graphic, and the actual size of the Graphic can be scaled to be close to the same size of the screen's parameters, then a screen's image area could be as small as 80" diagonal (16:9) for a 38" x 68" Graphic. At a 4' Throw (off the Table), a real issue with such a low Table is the PJ's minuscule 1" Image offset, which will out of necessity require the PJ be tilted, therein requiring Keystone correction. (...at least the smaller image will help mitigate the loss of resolution....)

A Table mount will really compromise the Decor IMO....whereas the PJ's white casing, combined with a a White Drop Tube that encases the Power / HDMI will effectively reduce the decor-intrusive aspect. Also, the needed "tilt" will be easier to accomplish and still deliver an image whose upper edge could be at least 8"-12" from the Ceiling.

It's the Window on the Right Wall that is the most critical, so in the least any Curtains should be a Gossamer Panel with semi-opaque Side panels, the latter(closest to the screen wall) screening more sideways light from the Projected image.

Lastly, as a bow to the White Room decor, I advise against painting the wall Grey. That will over burden the room's balance terribly. At the smaller size, and dependent upon availability, either a "Edge less" solid panel material painted a Medium Neutral Grey, or a Cloth-based solution (Flexi-Grey would be ideal) on a Edge-less Frame would be far more in keeping with the style as seen.
 

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I wholeheartedly agree with using a panel (or even an elegantly distinct directly applied grey section instead of the entire wall section) both for aesthetics and for the higher perceived contrast it can provide.

Additionally, if this is mainly for graphics, it can also help if you can customize those graphics to rely less on large areas of deep blacks and instead use more gradients into bright areas along with purposely overly vibrant color (carefully avoiding obvious over-saturation/clipping). This is usually easier done "live" instead of on another screen to later be transferred..it can help to see how things interact as you're working.
This is assuming quite a lot though.. :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Really appreciate your replies and advices. In deed the clown means nothing, just trying to highlight the wall I’m projecting to, sorry for that. Now I’m projecting a 16:9 100” image, more less, about 86-inch width, and we seem to be comfortable, big enough, the viewing distance is 120-inch max. I use it for sports, ps4 and movies, especially movies. I´m in Colombia, so very interested in generic or easy to find materials, like Sherwin Williams paints or so. The wall is smooth and not having problems with texture, maybe can get it smoother and find a “whiter” or better paint mix. I know I’m not getting the ideal scenario but willing to do anything that could improve the experience with the limitations I have. Really like the panel idea or a nice screen, but in Colombia they are too expensive, and bringing directly from the USA, which can afford, seems not to be a good idea having read about shipping damages, wrinkles etc. The middle table in deed has two panel’s that can be moved higher and backwards, that’s why I haven’t had problems with tilt and been able to project the 100” screen with minimum zoom. Want to mount in the ceiling specially cause is practical, I know the image will be higher in the wall, but I think still comfortable. Should I then keep white? Maybe you know low profile mount that can serve that purpose, an image not so high but with the PJ not so low from the ceiling, with minimum keystone correction? The ceiling is 7,5 ft high. Thank you again in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Like the flexi-grey frameless panel, maybe can try to get some of the material, but I’m not much handy, so worries me a little trying to make it, but not sure how it is made to get a nice result.
 

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  • You don't want to stick with White
  • You do want to at least use a Medium Flat Grey surface
  • If the Wall is smooth, and you stick with a basic Flat Grey, you should be able to make a very affordable Painted Screen.
  • A Ceiling Mount employing a 5" drop (Ceiling to Top* of Projector) would be best.A minimum of Tilt could garner you another 4" lower an image. 10" down from Ceiling *Bottom actually
  • Set up the Ceiling Mount, project an image, get it squared & true, apply Tape to outside edges of Image, then paint inside the Taped off area. To add on not add a fame is the only remaining question.
I vote no Frame.
 

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As far as shades of grey, the 2150st should be capable of around 900lm in its dimmest preset using Eco-Lamp which means on a 100inch screen the color "Veil" or "Pebble Grey" or "OONN 53/000" should start around 16ftL (a hair brighter than a good commercial theatre) which is great for 2D once some curtains are keeping the sunlight dimmed...but for a brighter image (or a 3D user) you may prefer the lighter shade of grey "Universal Grey" or "OONN 62/000" which should start the projector's dimmest settings near 19ftL while still providing a light-grey surface to help against the light sneaking past the curtains.
These colors are usually available through any of these brands: CIL, ColorPlace, Dulux, Glidden...and likely others as well.

Mississippi already said it, but I'll just emphasise again that you'll want flat paint. Shinier finish like eggshell/satin (and even some matte depending on the region) can easily hotspot, and also highlights little imperfections on the wall and paintjob. Flat finish is the least shiny which means it doesn't hotspot and it helps hide small flaws making the surface look even more perfect and uniform than it is.
 
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