Help, I broke my sub
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JB weld, just make sure you let it set overnight. my radiator is being held together with the stuff
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Umm...
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Umm...
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oh yeah, the stuff's incredible, we use it on the farm all the time. Its even been used to repair cracked engine blocks on heavy machinery.
I've heard of jb weld, but I didn't think a small application like this would be a good use. It's just a small piece of plastic. Can you get JB weld at places like Home Depot, or is there some kind of specialty store I need to go to?
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home depot, autozone, heck I think even wal-mart might have it.
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and I thought using that glass repair stuff on windsheilds due to rock chips was bad.
Ok, how did you crack a Cat, international, cummins, ect...engine block?
Ok, how did you crack a Cat, international, cummins, ect...engine block?
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They have it at WallyWorld too. I used some to fix an alternator bracket on my truck. Works like a charm.
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Observe all the links to the stuff on the right hand side, it happens
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/show...75&postcount=3
http://www.cat.com/cda/files/280395/7/pehj0050.pdf
they even make a discrepancy about not honoring core refunds for blocks that are cracked, it happens a whole lot more than you'd think. I have worked on projects where these massive beefy engines have thrown rods, cracked the blocks, you name it, the stuff takes a lot of abuse and its EXPENSIVE when it breaks because downtime is expensive.
Semi's can get broken blocks as well, they are no different, if the cooling gets messed up somehow, the block is gonna hate you. I have also heard of instances where compression builds up in an engine and causes it to crack.
One of the tractors on our farm broke a hole in its radiator and the engine rapidly overheated, the block cracked and caused the fan smack against the frame, this launched one of the blades straight at my uncles face, taking out his left eye. I saw the whole thing from about 20 feet away, it happened in about 10 seconds. Ironically, the tractor was an international, funny you should mention that.
http://www.locknstitch.com/cummins_d...nforcement.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/12928438
and I thought using that glass repair stuff on windsheilds due to rock chips was bad.![]()
Ok, how did you crack a Cat, international, cummins, ect...engine block?
Observe all the links to the stuff on the right hand side, it happens
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/show...75&postcount=3
http://www.cat.com/cda/files/280395/7/pehj0050.pdf
they even make a discrepancy about not honoring core refunds for blocks that are cracked, it happens a whole lot more than you'd think. I have worked on projects where these massive beefy engines have thrown rods, cracked the blocks, you name it, the stuff takes a lot of abuse and its EXPENSIVE when it breaks because downtime is expensive.
Semi's can get broken blocks as well, they are no different, if the cooling gets messed up somehow, the block is gonna hate you. I have also heard of instances where compression builds up in an engine and causes it to crack.
One of the tractors on our farm broke a hole in its radiator and the engine rapidly overheated, the block cracked and caused the fan smack against the frame, this launched one of the blades straight at my uncles face, taking out his left eye. I saw the whole thing from about 20 feet away, it happened in about 10 seconds. Ironically, the tractor was an international, funny you should mention that.
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5,125 Posts
Superglue it back together! Just don’t go sniffing the glue, okay.
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What way did you remove it, was it in a vertical position because you need to be very careful because it can just slip when the last screw is holding it.
Or you should place you’re knee on the very edge of it, just as you’re removing the last screw. Best way with these smaller subs is to place it upside down then, remove all the screws, and then lift it out gently.
What way did you remove it, was it in a vertical position because you need to be very careful because it can just slip when the last screw is holding it.
Or you should place you’re knee on the very edge of it, just as you’re removing the last screw. Best way with these smaller subs is to place it upside down then, remove all the screws, and then lift it out gently.
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5,125 Posts
What about (liquid nails) that's fairly strong.
LOL This is glue. Strong stuff.
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Sorry to hear about the miss fortune, the first time I loaded a huge JBL 2240H it weighed like a fire extinguisher, flipping heavy!
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What about (liquid nails) that's fairly strong.
LOL This is glue. Strong stuff.
Sorry to hear about the miss fortune, the first time I loaded a huge JBL 2240H it weighed like a fire extinguisher, flipping heavy!
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3,491 Posts
What about hotmelt glue from a glue gun? Some of the better stuff is plenty strong. Barring that, get a drill bit, pop that rivet out, make a new piece of plastic to mount the terminals and rivet it back on.
You probably need more epoxy. Don't try to use it like glue and use a little bit to hold the two pieces together. Use a ton of the stuff. If there's room, try to completely encase the broken part as much as you can, and make sure the epoxy is making contact to as many surfaces of the fixed part as possible too. Sanding both parts with really coarse sandpaper will really help the stuff bond as well.
If for some reason that doesn't work, you can get a tiny bit and drill a few pinholes in each part. This will let the epoxy flow into the holes and help it grip.
JB Weld should work, but a 2 part acrylic adhesive would be better for plastic. It probably won't actually say "epoxy" on the label though. It's a lot runnier than JB Weld, so it usually comes in a tandem syringe. Look for a container shaped like this:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=49&plid=517
You should be able to find it at Home Depot. Don't worry about getting this exact product since you probably won't find it. Just look for something in a similar container that either says it's acrylic or says it's made for plastics.
If for some reason that doesn't work, you can get a tiny bit and drill a few pinholes in each part. This will let the epoxy flow into the holes and help it grip.
JB Weld should work, but a 2 part acrylic adhesive would be better for plastic. It probably won't actually say "epoxy" on the label though. It's a lot runnier than JB Weld, so it usually comes in a tandem syringe. Look for a container shaped like this:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=49&plid=517
You should be able to find it at Home Depot. Don't worry about getting this exact product since you probably won't find it. Just look for something in a similar container that either says it's acrylic or says it's made for plastics.
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