HELP! I think I fried my 9PG plus

Jawhn,

Dead as in no stand-by light or is there a error code flashing 'FD'? Follow the red HV lead back to the splitter and unplug it lifting up on the grey boot not the lead itself, keep it away from the splitter and see if it fires up. Im still not sure where your screwdriver was. Doug

Thanks for the quick reply. Provided I traced the right wire, no change. In answer to your original question. DEAD as in NO power. No stand by light, nothing. There is power at the plug. About the location, directly under the power plug about 2" back and over about 1" toward the green tube. The vent slots I was referring to are the ones above the tubes, between the focus wing nuts, not the ones on the front.

PS. For orientation, my projector is ceiling mounted.

Jawhn


If you can get to the area where you put the screwdriver in, take alook around to see if you can see any signs of arching. That may give you an idea as to where to look for the problem. You might get lucky as that area is right at the power in of the PJ. Could be a simple power supply problem.


Deron

Jawhn,

That sounds like the power supply and if you have nothing then you might get lucky and its the main fuse inside the power supply depending on what was hit. Best case $2, worse case $1000+, in between a used power supply about $400 as a guess if it doesnt down a projector for it. Hope this helps. Doug

What's the easiest way to get to the power supply? How difficult is it to get to the fuse? Am I going to have to take it down from the ceiling? Is the fuse a common one available locally?

Jawhn, in case you don't get lucky, ( hope you do ) I am parting out a PG6plus with toasted tubes. Let me know should you need a PS.


Marc

Jawhn,

You have to remove the case and have access to the side of the chassis to remove the side screws, the bottom front cover needs to be removed to access the front screws, and unscrew the input board, then unplug the harness to the power supply, it slides out the front lifting up on the supply to clear the screw tabs. Remove the top cover of the supply lid and check the fuse marked F01. Replace with the same value fuse. Doug


Opps, 250V 10Amp

Replaced fuse, it was blown, but still no power. Did not see any signs of arching. How do I test the power supply?

I believe this may be the time to find a manual. There is really no telling if anything besides the PS has died at this point.


Marc

Jawhn,

When you replaced the fuse did you get a stand-by light or an error code at the rear readout? If you still have no stand-by light it might have re blown the fuse which means the problem goes further. Look for physical damage in the power supply, also check the two white ceramic fusible resistors that stand vertical R02-R03 and R57 for continuity. If those are ok then you need to get professional help to see if it can be saved or whats causing the problem. For the heck of it check that the power switch is on in front, be careful in there. Doug

Jawhn, I just saw this on ebay....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1940017728


Marc

Jawhn,

Not hard to replace but all should not be blown, if they are its the first time I have seen that, what setting did you have your ohmmeter set to? You will need to find the parts somewhere other then NEC, Ill see what I can find. The other part is it could have blown a component (chip, regulator, relay or something else) and that shorted the resistors out, R57 is over more towards the middle, some didnt have this. You might try Mike Parker on the forum, or send it to me but Im backed up so much now because I was gone for so long, so it would be awhile. I have a used one if this is an option because of time. Let me know. Doug

Maybe I did have the wrong setting on my meter. What setting should I use and what reading should I get? The R2 and R3 have what appears to be smokey gray patches on the back sides near the fins and also have small cracks on the front sides. Is this normal? Is there a place I can check power out on the power supply?

Jawhn,

Just leave at auto mode, R 2-3, 5.3 ohms, in the circuit unplugged. You will need to get a stand-by on before going further. Where your screwdriver went in is right about the main IC but check the transformers that stick up to make sure they are still solid to the board. Cracks are not normal. Doug

Today is my day to be really dumb. My meter does not have an auto setting. It has 5 ohms settings ... 200, 2K, 20K, 200K, 2M, 20M. I have the board out of the PS.

Set the ohmmeter at 200 ohms.Most power resisters are in the two to 10 ohm range.If the power resisters are blown and nothing else you are lucky.They are cheap and easy to replace.Make sure you replace with the same wattage and resistance though.

I had someone at the local electronics supply test the R02 and R03 and they are bad. They did not have the parts but said the could probably order them. Most of the info is on the resistor but they need to know the wattage. Anyone know a source for these?

Jawhn,

7W 4.7 Doug