Help I'm cleaning fungus on my Sony VPH-1000Q

thanks marvin


I have fungus on blue and red. And yes I am certain that it is the fungus.

I believed that I would have to take the tubes out completely. Thanks for clearing that up.


Do you know of any step by steps for removing them?

I found something, but that involved removing yokes, 2 pole magnets etc. Is this necessary? Or is that just when replacing them?


K

Just looking at a few of those links, whish that was about when I was doing these units!


one thing, it says use aquarium sealant, be very very careful! use a non acetic sealant, that doesnt release acid as it dries, it still releases small amounts over a good week or two and this upsets the coolant, in 2 cases it made it slightly cloudy brown.


Also I noticed it said keep the coloured fluid, hmm, that is just for show, the sony guys assured me in the sd-130's and sd-187's the tubes produced all the colour, and the fluid could be the colour or clear. I did tubes with clear and coloured.


You wont get the fungus out by filtering it with filter paper, its microscopic and the fluid is too viscous to give it up easily, you need to replace it full stop.


Feel free to correct and flame me

I found in the end the best stuff to use is gasket sealant from the auto shop, rated to high temp's non acetic cure and it black like the originial


used for head gaskets etc


and I never pulled the tubes out I was worried about alignment and stuff


You just need a longer razor which is slightly flexible.


For fluid removal I use spinal needles, they are slightly flexible which is good too

Larry- We all wish for an easier method. There are some here who claim success (And I believe them) with certain unnamed solvents being circulated in the tubes. Until the data on the solvent is released, this remains the best method I can see...



Quote-

"Yeah. I was there, but can't help but think that thats a bit more deconstruction of the tube than whats necessary.

Kenneth"


-- And thats what I meant by "I do it a bit differently." Sorry if I implied the methods in the link were wrong, as that was not my intent. I have seen a few people, for some reason unknown to me, who remove *everything* from the tubes to clean it. I feel this is just more work when it comes to putting the unit back together and setting the unit back up.


Please see the attached zip file. Its a kind of toss-together-fast-to-keep-my-word-project. You will see I named the pics to describe what was happening. If anyone wants to take the pics and incorporate them into anything, feel free.


--Kieth

 

1031qtuberemoval.zip 468.775390625k . file

You got it Larry! Cut the wires and pull it out. There are a few benefits from this method- 1)There is far less risk (IMO) of damage to the tube, 2) Less adjustments to make to the tube magnetics when setting the unit back up and 3) when you glue the face back on the weight of the magnetics help to hold things together- no more figuring out what to set on top of the CRT. Oh- Its also faster, since you dont have to spend time working the magnetics loose.


As for soldering irons- I use a butane powered UltraTorch (About $100 from Grainger) to do my big work- It gives me the freedom to move about, heats up quickly, and works literally anywhere, except underwater. On my repair bench, for PCB work mostly, I use a Weller soldering station- you can pick one up at a flea market sometimes for about 25 to 50 bucks, and there isn't much that beats it - you turn this thing on and count to five, you are ready to solder that fast. A cheap Radio Shack 30-40 watt iron should suffice for most jobs, if you are on a budget. BTW- Along with a good iron, good -fresh- solder is also important.


--Kieth