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Help me convert my DEAD Velodyne HGS-18 to a DIY Sub

8131 Views 38 Replies 10 Participants Last post by jpmst3, Feb 24, 2014

obxdiver

Discussion Starter · Feb 16, 2014

Hi All DIY Junkies

I have been running a Velodyne HGS-18 High Gain Servo subwoofer for 12+ years

It recently died. I have gone through Velodyne for repairs, but the driver itself is dead.

Upon removal of the driver, I can see damage to the accordion part that it has separated from the aluminum moving part

Too expensive to repair by Velodyne.

So...the reason I am here is I want to now use the HGS-18 cabinet to make my own 18" DIY sub.

I have no experience building speakers, so I am a complete newbie

Would it better to have an external amp or buy a plate amp?

What would be the best driver to use for this cabinet?

The sealed cabinet dimensions are:

23.5" x 21.25 x 18.5"

The opening where the old driver was is just shy of 18.5" where the rim of the speaker sits

I already have purchased a JTR Captivator S2 to replace the Velodyne.

I ordered it with a Walnut veneer finish, so it will take 8 weeks to get it.

So right now, I am w/o a sub in my HT.

I would like to use this DIY project to supplement the Cap S2 and try to get a sub working during the 8 week wait.

My room is large at 29' x 21' x 8'

It is open to a 12 x 10 kitchen at the left rear of the room.

Thanks for any advice

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1 - 20 of 39 Posts

BassThatHz

· #2 · Feb 16, 2014

Put a HO-18 in it, if the existing plate amp works you shouldn't need another one.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472

Should be good enough to limp along until then.

You might have to do a small amount of routing to make it fit in the box, if it's not the perfect goldilocks diameter.

obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 17, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24366871

Put a HO-18 in it, if the existing plate amp works you shouldn't need another one.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472

Should be good enough to limp along until then.

You might have to do a small amount of routing to make it fit in the box, if it's not the perfect goldilocks diameter.

Thanks BassThatHz

Love that name

qguy

· #4 · Feb 17, 2014

If the accordion is detached is'nt that an easy fix?

Does the driver move or produce sound in a distorted way ?

obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 17, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24367489

If the accordion is detached is'nt that an easy fix?

Does the driver move or produce sound in a distorted way ?

There is no sound at all, and the speaker terminals read "open" ohms on a multimeter

dragonleepenn

· #6 · Feb 17, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24368532

There is no sound at all, and the speaker terminals read "open" ohms on a multimeter

Note : the driver is a servo unit how well it will work is unknown with a non servo driver. However it may still work without the servo driver. The technology is somewhat different and may require some mods. Call Brian at rythmikaudio.com he may be able to help you with information as his subs are servo. He is a very nice guy and easy to talk with.

PeterV

obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 17, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonleepenn /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24368992

Note : the driver is a servo unit how well it will work is unknown with a non servo driver. However it may still work without the servo driver. The technology is somewhat different and may require some mods. Call Brian at rythmikaudio.com he may be able to help you with information as his subs are servo. He is a very nice guy and easy to talk with.

PeterV

Thanks for the reply PeterV

I think I want to just go with a new 18" driver, like the Dayton, and get a new amp for it as well.

I just want to build my own sub using the old Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure

The Velodyne amp is possibly dead as well, plus, there are several wires that come off of it that go into the 18" woofer.

I assume this is the feedback loop for the servo control feature.

The 6x 1000uf capacitors have already been changed on the amp due to them being bulged on the tops and one was even split open on the top.

I will obviously try the Velo amp with the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver

So what would be a good amp for this Dayton driver?

Plate, or external?

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dragonleepenn

· #8 · Feb 17, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24370606

Thanks for the reply PeterV

I think I want to just go with a new 18" driver, like the Dayton, and get a new amp for it as well.

I just want to build my own sub using the old Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure

The Velodyne amp is possibly dead as well, plus, there are several wires that come off of it that go into the 18" woofer.

I assume this is the feedback loop for the servo control feature.

The 6x 1000uf capacitors have already been changed on the amp due to them being bulged on the tops and one was even split open on the top.

I will obviously try the Velo amp with the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver

So what would be a good amp for this Dayton driver?

Plate, or external?

Obx,

Dayton has plate amps, parts-express has them. Only thing is the cutout on the cabinet may or may not fit, you may need to make some adjustments for it to work. Crown xls 1500 amps are very nice I have six of them I use for all my channels (LCR, side surrounds, back etc.) low cost and many here use them for subs.

PeterV

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FOH

· #9 · Feb 17, 2014

I wouldn't bother with the existing amp, If get an I-nuke dsp amp from Behringer. That way you can signal shape/eq and time align to blend ideally with your current mains thru the crossover region.

When one of my Velodyne sub amusement bad, I powered the still good driver with a Behringer EP4000, dramatic improvement.

obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 17, 2014

Thanks

I was looking and reading other posts about the iNukeDSP amps.

I think I will get me an iNuke1000, run it in bridged mode, and get the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver

Then play with the DSP stuff get get a smooth in room response

It should be fun.

Thanks for all the replies

jpmst3

· #11 · Feb 17, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371277

Thanks

I was looking and reading other posts about the iNukeDSP amps.

I think I will get me an iNuke1000, run it in bridged mode, and get the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver

Then play with the DSP stuff get get a smooth in room response

It should be fun.

In a small sealed box like that, you might be better served with the 3000. You can expect about 70-75% of the advertised power.

When you start EQing/boosting the bottom end like the your HGS had already built-into the amp, you will need the power.

obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #12 · Feb 17, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371664

In a small sealed box like that, you might be better served with the 3000. You can expect about 70-75% of the advertised power.

When you start EQing/boosting the bottom end like the your HGS had already built-into the amp, you will need the power.

Thanks for the advice

Would that still be run in bridged mono mode to give the full 3000 W (or ~75%) to the Dayton driver?

The Dayton driver has 900 watts handling (1800 w peak)

jpmst3

· #13 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371686

Thanks for the advice

Would that still be run in bridged mono mode to give the full 3000 W (or ~75%) to the Dayton driver?

The Dayton driver has 900 watts handling (1800 w peak)

Sure or you could just use one channel. Don't get me wrong the 1000 will do, but for a small upcharge you will have headroom and if you want to do another project you will either have extra power or a spare channel depending on how you want to run things.

Also, a driver of this nature can take more that it's rated power for short bursts/transients.

obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #14 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371755

Sure or you could just use one channel. Don't get me wrong the 1000 will do, but for a small upcharge you will have headroom and if you want to do another project you will either have extra power or a spare channel depending on how you want to run things.

Also, a driver of this nature can take more that it's rated power for short bursts/transients.

OK

Thanks very very much for your advice.

I ordered the iNuke3000DSP and the Dayton 18" driver.

I also ordered some RCA to XLR convertor plugs, since my processor's sub out is an RCA type plug.

And, I ordered some 2-pole twist lock speaker connectors for the iNuke outputs

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jpmst3

· #15 · Feb 18, 2014

2

Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371781

OK

Thanks very very much for your advice.

I ordered the iNuke3000DSP and the Dayton 18" driver.

I also ordered some RCA to XLR convertor plugs, since my processor's sub out is an RCA type plug.

And, I ordered some 2-pole twist lock speaker connectors for the iNuke outputs

Good deal! You are on your way now!

I recently migrated to all SpeakOn connectors as well, the only way to go for me from now on. I have no idea why I resisted that for years.

Also, be warned, once the you get a good taste of what is possible with outboard amps, robust drivers, and everything DIY, be prepared!

You may never want to go with a commercial sub again. It can quickly become an addiction and it is amazing how much performance can be had and more economically to boot.

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obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #16 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371805

Good deal! You are on your way now!

I recently migrated to all SpeakOn connectors as well, the only way to go for me from now on. I have no idea why I resisted that for years.

Also, be warned, once the you get a good taste of what is possible with outboard amps, robust drivers, and everything DIY, be prepared!

You may never want to go with a commercial sub again. It can quickly become an addiction and it is amazing how much performance can be had and more economically to boot.

Yea..but I am a single guy with no WAF to deal with.

This DIY sub, together with the JTR Cap S2 I already purchased should do me just fine.

I also have an older M & K MX350 dual 12" sub, but thinking of selling that one once I get these 18's running

Thanks again for all of your help

Steve

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jpmst3

· #17 · Feb 18, 2014

4

Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371827

Yea..but I am a single guy with no WAF to deal with.

This DIY sub, together with the JTR Cap S2 I already purchased should do me just fine.

I also have an older M & K MX350 dual 12" sub, but thinking of selling that one once I get these 18's running

Ha! That is all the more reason to go nuts!

Most of the insanity around here is somewhat metered by another half.

Just fine is what I said ten subs ago!

I keep upgrading and trying different designs. It is a hell of a hobby, but I wish it were cheaper!

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obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #18 · Feb 22, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24371805

Good deal! You are on your way now!

I recently migrated to all SpeakOn connectors as well, the only way to go for me from now on. I have no idea why I resisted that for years.

Also, be warned, once the you get a good taste of what is possible with outboard amps, robust drivers, and everything DIY, be prepared!

You may never want to go with a commercial sub again. It can quickly become an addiction and it is amazing how much performance can be had and more economically to boot.

Hi

If anyone is interested, I got my Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver

I have it mounted in the Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure.

The Dayton driver has 8 holes, the Velo driver, only had 6.

So I drilled 8 new holes in the mounting flange of the enclosure, and used #10-32 T-Nuts with steel screws to make a good solid mounting. Luckily, all of my drilled holes lines up perfect with the Dayton driver.

The Dayton driver fit perfectly in the enclosure w/o no modifications required.

I also have the iNuke3000DSP amp, but I have not yet received my SpeakOn connectors.

I hope they come today.

Here is a picture of the now DIY sub.

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jpmst3

· #19 · Feb 23, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24393334

Hi

If anyone is interested, I got my Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver

I have it mounted in the Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure.

The Dayton driver has 8 holes, the Velo driver, only had 6.

So I drilled 8 new holes in the mounting flange of the enclosure, and used #10-32 T-Nuts with steel screws to make a good solid mounting. Luckily, all of my drilled holes lines up perfect with the Dayton driver.

The Dayton driver fit perfectly in the enclosure w/o no modifications required.

I also have the iNuke3000DSP amp, but I have not yet received my SpeakOn connectors.

I hope they come today.

Cool! It looks like it belongs in there.

I am looking forward to your impressions after you get it dialed in.

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obxdiver

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 23, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /t/1518124/help-me-convert-my-dead-velodyne-hgs-18-to-a-diy-sub#post_24395475

Cool! It looks like it belongs in there.

I am looking forward to your impressions after you get it dialed in.

Got my Speakon connectors today.

I set the I Nuke to Bridged Mono

I wired the Speakon connector as +1= Plus +2=Negative

-1 & -2 Jumpered

Man this this rocks the house.

I downloaded the I Nuke Remote Connect software

I had to use the limiter just a bit, because it was banging the cone on hard deep bass.

I have it set at -3.5 dBfs. That seems to have stopped that problem.

I was also getting a strange sound from the driver like a high frequency sound.

I used the low pass Butterworth filter at 300 Hz 48dB Slope. That solved the strange sound I was hearing.

The High Pass filter is OFF

I am not using any PEQ or DEQ. I played with them, but for now, I am running it flat.

I have the gain knob on the front of the amp maxed out

Does all of this sound right.

I know it sounds right in my room, but never played with an i Nuke till today.

It has an enormous amount of settings.

Just watched Enders Game and it was awesome.

Lots more playing to come.

One complaint about this amp....Noisy Fans !!!

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