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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,


I'm so lost at what I should do. I have a 1987 supra which originally had 4" speakers. Years ago I replaced the original speakers and the factory deck but the sound still sucked.


I have a 50x4 Kenwook deck, and I have the lines for an AMP and was planning on getting a 5 Way amp to help my modernization plans.. My old speakers are 6 /12 coaxial speakers on the front which produce almost no bass. The rear's were some boss 5.25 which are even worse and I think one of them has blown now.


I'm not looking to shake the car next door but I was hoping that I could get my sound system up to snuff with my 2008 Lexus.


Here's the items I was thinking of purchasing from amazon. Help me if I'm choosing the wrong speakers and amp ect.


I was looking at the following


Planet Audio AC1800.5 MOSFET Five-Channel Power Amplifier, 300 Watts x 4, 600 Watts x 1 MAX Power $133$

1800 WATTS MAX POWER

Bridgeable Trimode Operation

Input Sensitivity Selector

Variable Bass Boost (0 to +1 8dB)

Switchable Phase Shift (0-180º)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSLE4O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Renegade RX62 6.5-Inch 2-Way Full Range Speakers


6.5" 2 Way Coax System

100 Watts RMS, 200 Watts Max

Impedance 4 Ohms

Frequency Response 60 Hz - 20 /khz

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QGXX3K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER



Soundstream SST5.2 5.25-Inch 2-Way 100-Watt Speakers (Black)


5-1/4" Tarantula Series 2-Way Car Speakers

Power Handling: Peak: 400 watts per pair / 200 watts each RMS: 200 watts per pair / 100 watts each

Black Zirconium Coated Cone woofer

High Efficiency Progressive Slant Butyl Rubber Surround

1" Silk Dome Tweeter Swivel Pole Tweeter Mount

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002W81ZC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A230X6N8Q7MAD7



Lanzar MAXP84 Max Pro 8-Inch 800 Watt Small Enclosure 4 Ohm Subwoofer

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JSY8R8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER#productDetails




About $270 total


Any suggestions ideas?
 

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Before you make any decisions, the first thing you have to determine is what you are trying to accomplish, and what your budget is.


If you are looking for overall solid sound quality, don't waste your money on rear speakers, if your rear speakers are not blown, leave them for rear fill. If they are blown, just disconnect them. Spend a little more on a set of front 2 way components(separate mid range and tweeter). Now right there might already be more than what you are looking to do. If you don't want to mess with mounting a tweeter, understandable. But ultimately if you will get better overall sound quality and clarity compared to a set of front coax's hidden in door. But I've seen it hundreds of times, I've done it myself. You want to put together a respectable car audio set up, then spend all this time setting up until you realize that a few extra hundred bucks could have netted you a way better system. Especially if you anticipate having this car for a while.


You posted some items for $270 total. Let's just say you will stretch your budget to $350-$400. Here is what I would recommend with a very limited budget.

https://www.woofersetc.com/p-12036-i6405-precision-power-5-channel-640w-rms-class-d-ion-series-amplifier.aspx


https://www.woofersetc.com/p-9817-ts-a1304c-pioneer-5-14-2-way-a-series-component-speaker-system.aspx

https://www.woofersetc.com/p-11819-10w0v3-4-jl-audio-10-single-4-ohm-w0v3-series-subwoofer.aspx



Will you be installing this equipment?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks very very much for the reply, yes I'll more than likely be installing it myself.


Can you help me understand why the speakers you listed are better?


From the specs I see that the speakers I have listed have a higher RMS, although I can't seem to find the frequency range of the speakers or DB probably because they are a little trashy.


I'm willing to spend about 1000$ at max, but realistically, I would like to spend the least for the the sweet spot of good enough. Which is why I referenced my Lexus-ISF's sound system. I mean it's a 11 speaker system and I know I really can't match that without some good money spent, but I would like decent clarity, not crazy bass. I know the 10w0 is a great sub, but I think it's too much for my needs, I really am tight for space in the back of my car, I need to keep the amp and sub small so I can fit the roof in the back when I take it off.


I'd like to have rear speakers as well since they add overall sound when playing some of the songs that make good use of stereo. (thinking of some beatles songs and chili peppers)


It seems every time I've replaced speakers on any car they have always sounded horrible... (unless amped) Is that becuase I'm getting speakers with too high of an RMS rating for the puny 50x4 deck? Which probably only puts out 30w rms?
 

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Forget the renegade brand.


Get two sets of the soundstream speakers you have listed or get one set that is the 6 1/2 " size for the frontsif you have the depth.


That amp will work fine but it is about 20 inches long so if space is at a premium..... You may want to look at a smaller amp.



I would look for a small class d 4 channel. Look for a ken wood xr series as an example. Get a bazooka tube based sub. Your supra is a hatchback and the bazooka can come amplified . It's small self contained and in a hatch can help fill in and solidify the low end.


To answer your question about why adding a stand alone amp sounds better, it's because the amplifier on a chip that most head units use are fine but the second you start asking for more output or add some form of eq in boost or loudness and the chip just runs out of power. Plus most stand alone amps have decent crossovers so you can filter out the low end that those speakers are just not designed to produce in excessive volume.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright, good call, so the speakers and the amp are ok?


I was looking at precision power any reason for the recommendation over the other I had selected?
 

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The MB Quart amp should power your speakers fine. about 3" shorter than the other one.


In this price point for amplifiers (and probably some priced higher
), a lot of the amplifiers from different brands often use the same build house. So they often end up with the same or at least very similar boards.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just found out that MB quart is chinese made now, not that I have a problem with that, but I know most that stuff is lower quality and not what it used to be. Should I be worried? Also, going back on looking at items, I went to a local audio store heard some Helix's E6X's and they sounded amazing vs the Alipne 610's and the kicks 654's. Some how I'm thinking these chepaer speakers can't hold up? Would the speaker crafts have any legs to stand on vs these types of speakers? Again i'm not looking for crazy. Just something that could compete with my 11 speaker mark livingston lexus package.
 

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For the Chinese build house statement, for amplifiers, you will be fine if you go that route. Like I mentioned, a lot of amplifiers are assembled in china



If you are wanting to match up in sound quality for tonality, staging etc, really everything but low end, then going the cheapest car audio brands is not necessarily a recipe for success.


For myself, my list of components would be thisas long as the speakers fit. It will in most likelyhood surpass the ML lexus system.


The MS-8 uses Logic 7 and autotunes the vehicle with its time alignment, EQ etc... I own one and love it. It also has a built in 8 channel amp.


JBL MS-8 DSP/Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO-501EZ-Watt-Calss-Amplifier/dp/B007GYU71K/ref=sr_1_2?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1395872796&sr=1-2&keywords=car+amplifier



Front speakers buy 1 pr each

Dayton RS180 7" mids
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180-4-7-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-374



Vifa ring radiator tweeter
https://www.parts-express.com/vifa-xt25sc90-04-1-dual-ring-radiator-tweeter--264-1014


Buy those soundstream 5 1/4 coax's for the rear fill


Subwoofer

Dayton HO 10
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-4-10-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-462


Sub amp

JBL
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO-501EZ-Watt-Calss-Amplifier/dp/B007GYU71K/ref=sr_1_2?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1395872796&sr=1-2&keywords=car+amplifier


build or buy a 0.7 cubic foot enclosure ported tuned to 30 hertz.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interesting, those are HT speakers no? I guess it doesn't make a difference but I can't fit 7" speakers they just will not fit my enclosures. Why would I use the same monoblock sub for the front R/L? Wouldn't that be bad and the wrong amp to use?
 

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Speaker is a speaker branding means zip. I have used the 8" in my own install and they are great.



Sorry, the JBL MS-8 has a built in 8 channel amp that works very well as long as you are not wanting max SPL.


Use the mono amp to power just the sub, no matter what brand. Just make sure you pay attention to subwoofer coil configuration for the end result DCR.



In reality, there are so many configurations. If we were working together on this, meaning you lived close, we would tear into the vehicle, measure maximum depth and cone size that fits in the front. Come up with a budget and work within that coupled to listening goals. Its been a while since I heard the ML system in a Lexus. But I have heard many high end factory OEM systems and frankly its not hard to come up with something to surpass or equal them. It does require some ability to EQ and a DSP really helps.


Do a little deadening work on the front doors and install the biggest driver we could in the doors. Mount the tweets up high on the dash/a piller/ door corner etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks so much, wow, you've been so much help... Wish you were closer to Cali.


I'm so scared of the normal installers, they do such **** if you don't get the right one...


I understand the reason why you'll want 14/12 guage wire for the speakers but the shop told me today, that you don't need to upgrade the speaker wires for the components, just for the sub you'll want something like 12 guage due to the power needs of the sub. Is this true? My stock wiring is probably 20 or 18 gauge.
 
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