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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've heard that it's possible to get a much brighter picture from a lamp-based projector at a lower cost than current LED models. I've started digging around and I'm just not seeing what I need, so I'd like some help.


Only a handful of requirements:

-$800 or less (I'm hoping a pj and one lamp replacement around $1,000)

-720p native or better (wxga is fine..anything at or over 720x1280)

-likely no LCD (pixel gaps look terrible to me, and others sit very close)

-likely no LCD (native contrast tends to be half of dlp's in the sub$1000)

-DLP must be RGBRGB (rgbycw/rgbcmy have low color brightness and lower contrast once white levels are balanced..you end up only using half of the wheel)


That's it. The brightest possible candidate wins as long as whites look white (a.k.a. not green). If there is an LCD that happens to have good contrast and pixel fill-ratio, I'm open to suggestion. Any extras (tripod mountable, USB video/built-in mediaplayer, cheap lamps) are a plus, but I'm trying to stay realistic and I don't expect these things.


The goal is to beat 450lm by a wide margin after the 1000-1500hour mark without looking green and without dimmer colors compared to white. Can it be done? Please say 'yes'.
 

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DLP's with an RGBRGB color wheel that come to mind are the BenQ 1070 (the brightest and close to your price range), the Optoma HD33 (generally refurbs only available now for under $700) and the Mits HC7900DW (brand new for $799). These are all 1080P and the only resolution I would consider. OEM lamps for the HD33 are under $100 with/out housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hadn't considered Optoma with their only current model hd30b having an RGB wheel, but older refurbished from the company (with warranty) could certainly work. For some reason I keep forgetting about Mitsubishi. Despite their dropout, do you think they'll still provide support and replacement lamps?


The 1070 gets a ton of praise, and may end up being the only one mentioned so far that I could get at a physical store which is a pretty big advantage. I've heard the 1070 shines around 1200lm new, do you have any guesses about the brightness of the HC7900dw and the HD33?


Thanks for the information. Please keep it coming.
 

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The HD33 will be a little dimmer but a more solid build then the 1070 and has FI. The mits will be not as bright but has far better contrast and higher quality optics, bulbs are not an issue as its a common lamp, They all a much brighter then any LED. The Mits is an excellent deal if you can deal with its large off set and the left over stock can't last much longer before it runs out, they are going like hotcakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tempting as the better contrast is, I'd better stick to the brightest option/s and leave the merry little 300 to darkroom duty; it's practically treated as a tv nightlight and collects hours ravenously.

Rereading Art's review, it sounds like the 1070 reaches almost 1,400lm with brilliantcolor off (the way BC was meant to be :p). Keeping in mind it'll always be running full brightness and in my miserlyness I'll probably run the bulb the full 3000+ hours, should dimming be a problem with a 1400 starting point? I've heard halfbrightness can occur anywhere from 500-1500 hours, but a lot of that was old reading and I'd love a rough (updated) idea of what to expect. Also, after halfbrightness, is it true that further dimming becomes very gradual to the point that the lamp will likely pop only slightly below half?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast  /t/1521383/help-me-switch-to-the-bright-side#post_24457015


Rereading Art's review, it sounds like the 1070 reaches almost 1,400lm with brilliantcolor off (the way BC was meant to be :p). Keeping in mind it'll always be running full brightness and in my miserlyness I'll probably run the bulb the full 3000+ hours, should dimming be a problem with a 1400 starting point? I've heard halfbrightness can occur anywhere from 500-1500 hours, but a lot of that was old reading and I'd love a rough (updated) idea of what to expect. Also, after halfbrightness, is it true that further dimming becomes very gradual to the point that the lamp will likely pop only slightly below half?

I'd recommend SmartEco since it offers bright-as-Normal-Mode bright scenes coupled with dynamic contrast for dark scenes. And much longer bulb life ;-)


Have hit around 1250 hours in this mode and it's still bright enough for closed-curtain daytime use.


I (subjectively!) feel as if the real drop-off happened at around 150-300 hours or so (certainly way less than 50% brightness, though) and it's stayed relatively stable since. (Though I'd be interested in feedback from users with even more hours on the clock...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I love how smarteco works in a dark room, but I need the exact opposite for this situation. In mid-high APL scenes my brighter LED pj looks fine during the day at around 400lm, I want to try the lamp-based extra brightness and gamma controls to help low APL parts fight the light that seeps through friends' curtains.


That type of brightness dropoff makes sense. It also makes me more confident that I'll be running them until death and dealing with much lower than peak brightness for most of the time.
 
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