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Discussion Starter · #1 ·



Team,


i am a true newie to this area of my home theater addiction. I plan to purchase a JVC HD-350, and due to budget, i will not be able to purchase an anamorphic lens.


1) Can the members please explain to me what the "zoom" method is, and if it eliminates letterbox


2) What do i lose versus a "lens" solution.


My theater room is space challenged, and the projector will be aproximately 9.5 feet from a 86 inch 16x9 screen.


Thanks in advance for the education
 

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The "zoom" method is a way to accomplish a CIH setup without the use of an anamorphic lens. You would still need a 2.35:1 screen though.


If you are watching a 2.35:1 movie you zoom out so that the image fits your 2.35:1 screen. If the image you are watching is 16:9 (or 4:3 for that matter), you zoom in so that the height of the image fits inside your screen. You will have black bars on the sides, but these are easily masked. Also, you may possibly have to adjust lens shift (I don't ever have to touch lens shift when I zoom because my PJ is shelf mounted and it is easy to zoom without using lens shift).


As for zooming vs using a lens, I wouldn't sweat it. I zoom, and it works great. If I had the money to spae, I would probably buy a lens, but the idea of spending $1000+ makes me balk.
 

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Your top and bottom black masking also needs to be several inches in height so as to 'absorb' the grey bars of the zoomed out (letterboxed) 2.35 image.

Like 'Kilgore', I have zoomed for years, and am totally satisfied with it. I use a 110 ins wide 2.35 screen with wide masking all around. For my particular set up, zooming PQ leaves nothing to be desired , and I have zero desire for an anamorphic lens which I doubt could improve the image significantly.
 

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Good point Eric - and a definite advantage over the A-lens where the subtitles are usually gone.

Nice to hear from some people who are actually very happy with zooming. I would recommend any newcomer to CIH to take the zooming route for a while, before plunking down thousands of dollars for an A-lens. Depending on your particular situation and projector specs, zooming can look incredible if done right. Put that money into screen and masking before buying glass!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A big thank you to the members.


i truly appreciate your time and comments.


Another person recommended the Panasonic AE-3000U projecter, because it had memory settings for 16:9, and 2.35, and it was easy to change aspect ration with the remote. my understanding is that the JVC hd-350 does not have the memory capability.


The two screen solution is something i never thought of, but if you had the memory settings on the remote, it would be easy to drop the appropriate screen


thanks once more
 

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Quote:
The two screen solution is something i never thought of, but if you had the memory settings on the remote, it would be easy to drop the appropriate screen

My 2 screen solution was originally born of having a 16:9 screen already, wanting to get a bigger 2.35:1 screen, and not wanting to pay for an expensive electric screen with masking ( or take a bath selling the older 16:9 screen ). Best thing I've done other than buying a projector to begin with !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer /forum/post/16941992


My 2 screen solution was originally born of having a 16:9 screen already, wanting to get a bigger 2.35:1 screen, and not wanting to pay for an expensive electric screen with masking ( or take a bath selling the older 16:9 screen ). Best thing I've done other than buying a projector to begin with !!!!

Necessity is the mother of inspiration. with your concept, i believe that i could get the ease of uses with a Panasonic AE-3000U, and tie use this concept. if i had the space, i could use the Elite "osprey" screen that has both screen ratios in one motorized housing, but it is not a tensioned screen.


i would need an 86" diagnoal 16:9, and a 82" 2.35:1 screen.


thanks again for the great brains
 

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I zoom with the rs10 (hd350) and it just takes a few clicks with the remote to zoom back and forth between AR's. I would definately view the panny and check out the pq and ease of use with the memory feature compared to the remote and pq of the 350.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow /forum/post/16956395


I zoom with the rs10 (hd350) and it just takes a few clicks with the remote to zoom back and forth between AR's. I would definately view the panny and check out the pq and ease of use with the memory feature compared to the remote and pq of the 350.

I gave up the lens memory convienience of the AE3000 and sold it to buy a HD350 as I felt that the better dark scene performance was more important to me. I have a Lumagen HDQ so I use the 'shrink' method for 16:9 menus and trailers, leaving the lens zoomed for 2.35:1. As so few BluRays seem to be 16:9 I rarely need to rezoom, but when I do it doesn't take long anyway.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer /forum/post/16957849


I must get the wrong movies then, like Valkyrie. Seems like at least 50% of my Blu Rays are 16:9.

I have about 30 Blurays. I've been debating on getting a 2:35 screen so the other day I counted all of them for aspect ratio.


I don't remember the exact # but it was one or two over half in favor or 16:9 and 2:35-2:40.


I have to admit I was surprised. So, needless to say I'm not switching screens or gonna do the Craig Peer, two screen method.


scott
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer /forum/post/16957849


I must get the wrong movies then, like Valkyrie. Seems like at least 50% of my Blu Rays are 16:9.

I'm not saying that you 'get the wrong movies' just my experience. I tend to mostly watch 'new' films and without making a deliberate AR choice that's just they way it has worked out for me. Probably less than 10% have been 16:9 and I looked at my DVD collection before I bought my first screen and found the same, hence my choice of screen format. My point being that (to me) the HD350's PQ is more important than having the lens memory and it is easy enough to adjust the zoom on the HD350 should I need to.
 

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I remember, before I went FP, how I would look forward to watching the latest blockbuster released on Bluray on my huge 70" TV.
Assemble the family and sit down to watch the movie. Unfortunately, I was always a little disappointed at the end because the 2.4 image was so much smaller than even a regular sitcom image on my TV. After a while I noticed most higher budgeted, action or "blockbuster" type movies were shot in scope and comedies, dramas, chick flicks, most kids movies and "cheaper" action movies where in 1.78. I am in the 50/50 range for scope and 1.78 AR movies but I am most interested in maximizing the setup for scope movies as they seem to be more dependant on entertaining with visual impressiveness. I am not saying scope movies are better movies. Sometimes it feels the opposite as they can rely on visual spectacle rather than characterization, story...
 

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I do my own version of this. I have an electric screen that is 116" wide. For 16x9 content I drop it down 57" to give me a 57x101.50 image. I have some black bars on the side but are really insignificant. For scope content I drop it down about 49" and I have a 49x116 scope screen. It is masked above and below the scrope image so there are no black bars. Really more of a constant area setup. I like it because I get the biggest scope and 16x9 screen for my space. When not in use it shows off my sophisticated art pieces.



You can see the black masking just below the screen wall posters.This is below where the scope screen hangs



Scope 49x116. No black bars



16x9 57x101. Small black bars on the side but not as much if I had a traditional fixed 2.4 screen. I pick up 8 more inches of height on the 16x9 - but the scope is still a little bigger than the 16x9
 

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1.) so in regards to the zoom process, i assume if the pj cannot do this internally then the only way would be to get an external scaler, correct?


2.) for a 2.35 movie, one would have to zoom out for it to fit the screen. does this not then though crop the picture a bit on each side?


3.) for 16:9 material, one would zoom in. wouldn't this also crop the pic now on the top and bottom?


4.) how can one program these saved settings on any pj or scaler into a remote so all you would have to do it click 2.35 or 16:9 or 1.85, etc. is this possible?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. /forum/post/16966993


1.) so in regards to the zoom process, i assume if the pj cannot do this internally then the only way would be to get an external scaler, correct?

The zoom method doesn't require a scalar, and the zooming is done manually, at the PJ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. /forum/post/16966993


2.) for a 2.35 movie, one would have to zoom out for it to fit the screen. does this not then though crop the picture a bit on each side?

Not if you have a 2.35:1 screen. The whole point of the zoom method is to have achieve CIH, and this is only possible with a 2.35:1 screen. You zoom out so the 2.35:1 image fits the screen. The top and bottom will be outside the viewing area, but they are only black bars.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. /forum/post/16966993


3.) for 16:9 material, one would zoom in. wouldn't this also crop the pic now on the top and bottom?

No. when you zoom in, the 16:9 image will fit entirely within the 2.35:1 screen, but the left and right part of the screen will be dead space that you may mask with curtains, or whatnot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. /forum/post/16966993


4.) how can one program these saved settings on any pj or scaler into a remote so all you would have to do it click 2.35 or 16:9 or 1.85, etc. is this possible?

Normally, you don't program anything. You just go to the PJ and zoom in or out as needed. The Panasonic AE3000 is a projector that has motorized zoom and lens shift, so you can save your zoomed settings for the different aspect ratios and switch with the press of a button. This is the only PJ I know of that has this feature. For others, you have to do the zooming manually.
 

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hmmm. well in my case, my pj will be mounted in a hush box at the rear of the room (projected through a small opening in the wall actually), which would not be very accessible every time i need to zoom. so is my only option then to go with a lens? or can i simply have the pj zoomed manually for 2.35 all the time and keep it there, and then use a scaler to shrink the image evry time i need to watch 1.85 or 16:9. would that work also?


im surprised no one else has come out with a motorized zoom even on pj's over $5k.
 
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