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Discussion Starter #1
Panasonic 47" 47wx52f

This TV is around 3 years old now as an off the top of my head guess, and this has happened roughly 5-6 times. I turn it on, or very soon after turning it on and watching TV, it's all red and green. When I go to the tv menu/setup, everything appears normal.


At any rate, it's DEFINITELY the blue color missing from the video inputs, even the antenna. Could this be a reasonable fix? Is there anything I can do/check in the service mode menu's? Just having a tv repair guy switch out a new video input board? I've already called a tv repair guy that happens to live near me (in the middle of new hampshire that's a surprise) and hopefully he'll call back tomorrow. I'm wondering how much this is going to be, it was $1800 3 years ago, so I HAVE to attempt to have it fixed, haven't gotten $1800 worth of viewing out of it yet :/
 

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Bump, called the only local repair place, they only repair tvs from their own shop (then why list in the phonebook as a repaid place?!)


Looks like I'm going to have to go to an authorized panny repair place, closest ones are 30-52 miles away, and probly won't come to my house, which means I have a 47" tv that's not going anywhere, and noone to come look at it. Great. Completely and absolutely bummed out now.
 

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Bump. Currently working, but it comes and goes. Not with floor vibration or thumps/bangs andything else. Just randomly.
 

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Last time I checked, it is not possible to repair TVs via internet :)


Call a panny repair place for service. Many of them are small repair shops.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121
Last time I checked, it is not possible to repair TVs via internet :)


Call a panny repair place for service. Many of them are small repair shops.
Yes, I have someone from a panny service repair shop coming on tuesday. It's the only place within 60 miles, it's a 10 day waiting list, and the TV is not doing this half the time. If it's not doing it on the day they're scheduled, I don't have much of a choice but to cancel the appointment and make a new one (10 more days)

So if someone has had this similar problem and knows what's causing it, I could let them know and they could check it when they get here whether the problem is occuring or not.


THAT, is the purpose of the internet.
 

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Even if the TV is not displaying the problem on the day of the repair call, you shouldn't have to cancel it. Any reputable repair shop will have diagnostic equipment to test all of the components in the set, so they should be able to deal with it based on their findings and your description of the problem.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy1
Even if the TV is not displaying the problem on the day of the repair call, you shouldn't have to cancel it. Any reputable repair shop will have diagnostic equipment to test all of the components in the set, so they should be able to deal with it based on their findings and your description of the problem.
If it's possible to take a digital picture of the problem. That might help too.
 

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I'd want to see if blue was missing from using an internally generated convergence test pattern--assuming the set has one. If it's missing there, too, that suggests the blue CRT, or the power circuits driving it (typical failures), are malfunctioning. If blue's available in the convergence test, that narrows the troubleshooting. Intermittents, developing after warmup, are often caused by cold solder joints or a loose internal connection. -- John
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Blue is currently present in the convergence and set menus (thought I put that up there, maybe I forgot) which leads me to believe the gun is obviously functioning properly. It also comes and goes, the set was working fine for about 5 hours the other day, then in a temperature controlled area, with 3 people sleeping, and me planeted on the couch for over an hour, it suddenly lost blue. No shaking, vibrations, temp changes, nothing changed.

It had been on for 5 hours, ok so maybe it heated up? Nope. I'd say 65% of the time it happens, it happens within 5 minutes of turning the set on. It seems completely random.


Hopefully they'll be able to figure it out on tuesday. My guess is a cold solder myself, nothing apperas to be loose, and I've even done a couple unscientific "jump up and down in the living room" tests :) (and of course wiggled things here and there)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylentwulf
Bump. Currently working, but it comes and goes. Not with floor vibration or thumps/bangs andything else. Just randomly.


Ahhh! your problem is a BAD solder joint in the BLUE section of the board driving the CRT,what you need to do is get on the Website or CALL and ask them for a local autherized repair shop that do house calls! good luck,don,t worry if it is not doing it when he comes as tech's bang around in there and maybe cause it to do it again!


Cheers Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quote:
Originally Posted by cocokiwi
Ahhh! your problem is a BAD solder joint in the BLUE section of the board driving the CRT,what you need to do is get on the Website or CALL and ask them for a local autherized repair shop that do house calls! good luck,don,t worry if it is not doing it when he comes as tech's bang around in there and maybe cause it to do it again!


Cheers Dennis
That's kinda what I figured, was that it's a bas solder joint, but the blue DOES work in the menu's and convergence, so I'm guessing it's a solder point coming off the video input board. I'm guessing they'll just get me to replace the whole thing, which, frankly, for $200 labor, I might as well do it lol. Paying $200 for a re-solder doesn't sit well with me.
 

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Yes, if you can use blue convergence when blue's missing for all video inputs that narrows the boards. Having the schematic helps. It would be a circuit path exclusive to just the video inputs but not the convergence/CRT-out section. Bought a CDROM service disc for my year-2000 RPTV just for this purpose, but thankfully haven't needed it yet. Parts can be ordered from Philips' national service center, but it would be costly if I wasn't positive which board, etc. was malfunctioning. Last I checked, Philips charges a stiff price per minute when phoning for unregistered (non-service) folks. -- John
 
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